oVer Heating& more...

ep3royaltyep3royalty Wagonist
in Engine & Drivetrain
just got my swap in but my car seems to be over heating ie as soon as it starts to warm up it just keeps on getting hotter... as for the more... sometimes before the car even has time to warm up ill let it idle and it will die, so i start it up again and slowly give it gas and it slowly revs up, but if i try to "step on it" it just boggs out and dies... btw my ecu is throwing a code 5 map sensor, but all the hoses are connected... any input would help... thanks...

Comments

  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    The overheating sounds like you have air trapped in the cooling system. Can you give us more information about the swap?
  • ep3royaltyep3royalty Wagonist
    Haydz wrote:
    The overheating sounds like you have air trapped in the cooling system. Can you give us more information about the swap?

    Swap.... Sohc ZC...

    As for the air trapped.... I know there is release on the top of the upper hose do I just let it heat up and then open that release valve?
    Thanks....
  • yellowmikebikeyellowmikebike Wagonist
    Factory Thermostats have a small bleed hole in them, but a lot of aftermarket ones don't. The older motors also usually had a bleeder valve, similar to brake systems, on the water outlet or Tstat housing. The newer housings and newer models did away with this. On an engine with the valve, fill the cooling system with it open till coolant comes out, then close it and finish filling the system.

    Feel both hoses when the car has heated up to make sure both are warm/hot. If only one is, you at the very least have a Tstat problem or an air bubble.

    Radiator is good? Water pump is good? Radiator cap holding pressure and you have coolant, not water, in the system? Fan(s) working?
  • DarrenDarren Wagonist
    As far as the map sensor, that would definitely cause the behaviour that you're describing...
  • ep3royaltyep3royalty Wagonist
    yellowmikebike wrote:
    Factory Thermostats have a small bleed hole in them, but a lot of aftermarket ones don't. The older motors also usually had a bleeder valve, similar to brake systems, on the water outlet or Tstat housing. The newer housings and newer models did away with this. On an engine with the valve, fill the cooling system with it open till coolant comes out, then close it and finish filling the system.

    Feel both hoses when the car has heated up to make sure both are warm/hot. If only one is, you at the very least have a Tstat problem or an air bubble.

    Radiator is good? Water pump is good? Radiator cap holding pressure and you have coolant, not water, in the system? Fan(s) working?

    thanks for the good info on filling it up...
    rad good.... water pump new... rad cap good... coolant yes... and fan yes...
  • ep3royaltyep3royalty Wagonist
    Darren wrote:
    As far as the map sensor, that would definitely cause the behaviour that you're describing...


    so new MAP sensor????
  • ep3royaltyep3royalty Wagonist
    so...

    i have figured out that I have no oil pressure at all... and Im guessing thats why the car is over heating... Its knocking like crazy and the oil light is on, even though there is Oil in the car... Any suggestions...??? or do you think the motors toast???
  • JakerJaker familEE
    Without being there to hear the knocking myself, I would guess that if the oil light is on, and you say the engine is knocking, and there's oil in the oil pan, at the very least you're looking at replacing the oil pump, and all the engine bearings, and very good possibility that you need to replace the engine. The costs in time and money to fix a problem like this will probably be more than getting another engine.
  • ep3royaltyep3royalty Wagonist
    Jaker wrote:
    Without being there to hear the knocking myself, I would guess that if the oil light is on, and you say the engine is knocking, and there's oil in the oil pan, at the very least you're looking at replacing the oil pump, and all the engine bearings, and very good possibility that you need to replace the engine. The costs in time and money to fix a problem like this will probably be more than getting another engine.


    lol... thats what i was thinking...

    it sucks since i just got it in there... :(

    is there any way to test the pump so it doesnt happen on the new motor??? :?:
  • teamolsteamols New Wagonist
    that sucks man.is there any oil getting up to the head?take off he oil cap and take a look.gl
  • ep3royaltyep3royalty Wagonist
    teamols wrote:
    that sucks man.is there any oil getting up to the head?take off he oil cap and take a look.gl

    none at all... :( im at the point where im done with it... its my daily and i need it to be running good for a long time lol so im just going to get a new motor and start fresh...
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