Are my compression numbers good or bad?

vtecn8ivevtecn8ive Senior Wagonist
in Engine & Drivetrain
I prefer to be optimistic but damn this wagon is turning into a headache.

170-15-150-170

Notice the 15? :(

I'm really debating whether or not to keep this car right now.

I suppose I should keep this tech related.

Will a rt4wd oil pan fit on a d16z6 longblock fine?

-Shane

Comments

  • White&NerdyWhite&Nerdy Senior Wagonist
    Dude, 15psi is atmospheric pressure - 14.7, to be exact. So you're running on 3 cylinders. :(

    I believe that the RT4WD oil pan will fit a Z6 long block, since it's all the same block anyway. Though a decent used D16A6 would be easy and cheap to find. The one in my gf's CRX cost her $50. :lol: (OK, the car is still immobile, but that's because I can get the $^%& clutch to work - it starts and runs great...)
  • vtecn8ivevtecn8ive Senior Wagonist
    Yeah it was running fine. drove it to work (30 miles out of town) and when I go to work I realized it was running pretty rough, jumped in my car and turned back around. grabbed my crx and went back to work :(

    When I drove it I was thinking "it really feels like 15 psi on 1 cylinder" :lol:

    j/k I just thought it felt like it was running off of 3 cylinders. I hoped it was a fouled spark plug or a bad dizzy.

    Tomorrow looking at a d15z1 motor. If it looks good I'm getting it and the rt4wd will be a nice gas saver.

    I'm well aware of the wiring and other things needed to have this run properly in a car. after all I put one in a crx about 4 years ago, did all the wiring myself too!
  • DarrenDarren Wagonist
    That sucks dude.

    Could just be a blown head gasket, or a single valve... If you have the abililty to swap an engine, you'd have the ability to fix a head gasket (deductive reasoning) and it'd be cheaper :) not to mention you'd be keeping the OEM equipment.

    IMHO
  • noahrexionnoahrexion Wagonist
    Darren wrote:
    That sucks dude.

    Could just be a blown head gasket, or a single valve... If you have the abililty to swap an engine, you'd have the ability to fix a head gasket (deductive reasoning) and it'd be cheaper :) not to mention you'd be keeping the OEM equipment.

    IMHO

    x2

    Everybody always resorts to swapping. Get some air in there and figure out where its leaking; fix it (head gasket? might as well clean up the head with some new cuts and valve seals) on the cheap.
  • ragenasianragenasian Moderator
    Not to mention the swap might have its own issues leaving you in the same spot you are in right now.
  • DarrenDarren Wagonist
    I agree with noahrexion and ragenasian... if you don't want the swap for performance reasons, it might not be your best option, at least you should take the time to determine if it's REALLY what you want to do.

    I've done a B17A1 (GSR) swap, and i'm just completing my 2nd B18C (JDM ITR) swap in Crxes and it's a pain in the butt... never goes very smoothly, especially with the wiring, and the cars inevitably down longer than you wanted it to be.

    I've also done 3 or for motor changes on my 88 Accord Coupe and it's much easier, i can have a motor "swapped" out in a day in that thing, just simply because it's plug and play.

    Not trying to convince you NOT to do a swap, just saying you should go through the troubleshooting, and research to determine what direction you really want to go.

    There's good and bad points to swapping motors, you have to look at what you want the outcome to be.
  • vtecn8ivevtecn8ive Senior Wagonist
    I've done a few swaps in my life. I'm exceptionally good at wiring. Ever since I've been converting to obd1 I've done all the wiring myself. In fact I just got done troubleshooting a buddies messed up obdo-1 conversion (shop messed it up bad).

    I've got a complete d15z1 swap :twisted: the only thing I am lacking is the egr box (which it sounds like I have a couple I could get)

    I have everything else. I will begin the process this weekend. I have access to a welder, so I'll prep the vx manifold/cat to fit the rt4wd oilpan/drive train.

    This time next week it could POSSIBLY be driven.


    I guess I'm using the low compression as a reason to do this swap :D Whats wrong with awesome gas mileage, 4wd, power windows, locks, steering, a/c?? Don't be jealous :wink:

    I'm debating open up another thread of my mpg build!
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    The question is, does the D15 block have the landing for the RT4WD int shaft? Usually no.

    So you may need to rebuild the bottom end of that motor anyway, then add the D15 head onto it.
  • vtecn8ivevtecn8ive Senior Wagonist
    Just looked, It looks like I'd need to tap one hole, and then I'll make a bracket coming off of the alternator bracket for the top hole, still trying to figure out the 3rd hole, may run another bracket it off the exhaust hanger.

    hmph, thanks for pointing that out. I"ll get it to work.
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    Personally i'd just rebuild the bottom end of your current block and add the D15 head onto it, that way you'll also be sure of the quality of the engine and only have yourself to blame if some thing goes poohs. ;)

    You'll also be able to play around a little bit with what pistons you want as well.
  • vtecn8ivevtecn8ive Senior Wagonist
    Its the d15z1 swap that achieves great mpg, i have no interest in playing with the bottom end at this time. I MAY keep the d16a6 swap and play with that bottom end. But i just need to get this car on the road.



    Any tips on how to remove the tranny? I have never dealt with cable shifted trannies before. It is manual.

    Thanks,
    Shane
  • vtecn8ivevtecn8ive Senior Wagonist
    Motor should be in tomorrow :)

    Made up a custom bracket for one of the intermediate shaft holes, left one open, and the other one bolted to the block.


    I am going to run the light weight d15z1 OEM flywheel. Any issues you are aware that could happen because of it?
  • teamolsteamols New Wagonist
    i did the custom bracket for my jdm d15b1.the oil pan bolted on. i have about 19k miles scince the changeover
  • vtecn8ivevtecn8ive Senior Wagonist
    motor is in and started up today! receieved one check engine light for o2 sensor. so i will double check wiring and then clean up the wiring. maybe have mpg numbers this weekend!
  • vtecn8ivevtecn8ive Senior Wagonist
    32.5 mpg with z1 swap with mediocre driving (70-75), still have a slight sputter problem that I am trying to figure out.

    I was taking it around a on ramp (little excessive in speed) and CEL 22 came on!! Otherwise I had code 48, got a good sensor and that went away!

    I have more tweaking to do. I'm still being optimistic of hitting 40mpg. I really want to take off the intake manifold and clean the egr ports and have the fuel injectors cleaned.

    And I MAY do a headgasket but my compression numbers were decent (170-180) so I"m a little hesitant. If I did headgasket then I would do a clean up of the head which would net a some better MPG.

    I have a vacuum gauge I plan to hook up to help monitor my foot :)

    I'll try to get pics up sometime soon.
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