here we go again, skipping.

wagodizzle

alright, so i took my wagon out on its first trip on the big road since the engine swap (stock D15B2 replacement engine). well, its started skipping a bit after a while during acceleration. then while driving in the city at low speeds stop and go, it got bad enough to the point that it was as IF it were flooding, because it would not revf at all just started dying, and the tach was going on and off. CEL came on for a code 4 (crank angle sensor). anyways, it got over it and then did it here and there. i drove almost 100 miles today. going home on the highway it started it again, and the tach was going on and off. i turned the car off then started it again and it went fine all the way home.

anyways.... right now there is a code 1 and code 4 on the ECU.

WTF is going on? the CAS is in the dizzy, which is about a year old. i dunno what brand it is, but prolly a crappy one. (and i cant find the receipt *sigh*). is my dizzy at fault here? or what is making the car do this. this is the EXACT same problem that killed my other motor in the end. except it was WAY worse on the other motor. i dont know what it is, the car is completely back to stock now, with the exception of a Walbro fuel pump and of course the MPFI swap (which is setup in a stock way).

can anybody shed some light on my situation? because im nearing my wits end. oh, and i dont have any money haha.

evol911

I just went through something like this with my dizzy. The Crank Angle Sensor controls the injector timing and it could be flooding your engine causing the O2 sensor to trip also. If you have the round dizzy plug, test the two middle leads for 350-550 ohms, if its the square plug which I think it is with the DX's, the two leads you check are next to the empty spot on the plug. If its way out of wack, replace the dizzy.

Eagle Beagle

i vote ...
add "LuckY" to nick
maybe it helps ...

voodoo doctor anyone ... ?

bam-bam

verify all your grounds. a known good distributor would be a nice tshooting tool, but i don't have a spare mpfi one.

wagodizzle

yeah, a spare would be awesome.. lol i have like 3 DPFI dizzies but no MPFI ones.

thanks evol911. i'll see about checking those.

shenrie

Check the coil and the ignitor. Everytime Ive had a tach that jumped around, it ended up being the ignitor.

skinny

I had a problem with tach jumping but it was a loose connection in the dizzy

wagodizzle

shenrie wrote:

Check the coil and the ignitor. Everytime Ive had a tach that jumped around, it ended up being the ignitor.

both of which are in the dizzy (correct?)
so i do have a faulty dizzy. :x

wagodizzle

alright, i called the parts store and they will replace it for freeskie

evol911

Check B10 and B12 for 350-550 Ohms
http://rywire.com/store/faqdesk_info.php?faqPath=3&faqdesk_id=14&osCsid=72459706abf8c14cc9dc74e73ea24236

wagodizzle

thanks. will do

shenrie

wagodizzle wrote:

alright, i called the parts store and they will replace it for freeskie

If its not a Honda dist, you will forever have issues with it. Honda electronics are finiky. I wont use anything other than genuine parts for anything electrical on my Honda cars. Ive seen non honda coils burn up in less than 10 minutes. Ive seen brand new non honda ignitors not work right out the box. Too many options for failure...stick with genuine parts. It will save you headaches.

wabashky

CHECK ROTOR!!!! I had this happen and the screw that holds the rotor had backed out causing it to jump around on the tach, replaced the screw and it was back to normal. Just my $.02

D

shenrie

wabashky wrote:

CHECK ROTOR!!!! I had this happen and the screw that holds the rotor had backed out causing it to jump around on the tach, replaced the screw and it was back to normal. Just my $.02

D

Damn good idea. I too have had three fall off in the last year and a half. One helped ruin a motor

wagodizzle

shenrie wrote:

wagodizzle wrote:

alright, i called the parts store and they will replace it for freeskie

If its not a Honda dist, you will forever have issues with it. Honda electronics are finicky. I wont use anything other than genuine parts for anything electrical on my Honda cars. Ive seen non honda coils burn up in less than 10 minutes. Ive seen brand new non honda ignitors not work right out the box. Too many options for failure...stick with genuine parts. It will save you headaches.

yeah, i had to replace the first new ones about 3 times before i got one that worked. and i would love a genuine Honda one, except they are $500+ something while this one was only $120 at the time. its only to hold me out till i can get a ZC though so whatever.

i checked the rotor, and the screw is fine. but the contact on it looks really worn-ish.

also, with the new dizzy, it started to backfire a little bit again while accelerating once :x

ragenasian

A worn cap and rotor can easily be an issue. I just got 700 bucks knocked off the 1999 suburban I just bought because it wouldn't start. First it would start sometimes, then for two months not at all. Took the cap off and noticed a white build up on the contacts. Cleaned them up stuck it back on the car and it fired right up gave the guy his money and drove away (needless to say he wasn't happy). It was still missing on one cylinder though even though the contacts were cleaned up, so ordered a new cap and rotor and it runs beautiful. Now I have something to haul parts with.

Get you a new cap and rotor and see what happens. It can't hurt.

wagodizzle

yeah i shall do that. i have a few spares actually sitting at home, not new BUT they came off fine running engines

ragenasian

If you need some dizzy's to screw around with I think I have a couple of spares in the garage. Don't really know if they work but they supposedly worked when they were removed.

wagodizzle

i may dude. i hate to keep going back to the people at he parts store with "bad" dizzies, those the first 3 really WERE bad, haha. i'll let you know what happens later when i get home and install the other cap and rotor i have from a spare PM5 distributor.

oh, and i was going to do the ohm test but i forgot to get the meter yesterday from the place i was going to borrow it.

wabashky

It was fricking hilarious the first time the rotor thing happened to me, I was 4 hours from home on a work related run and stranded on the side of the road with 104 degree weather in the middle of nowhere back country Lousiana. the engine was backfiring and not 'really' running and dying out. thought about it and decided "timing??" so i tried taking adjusting the dizzy and the bottom most screw just wouldnt budge so i took off the cap to get at it and i heard the screw fall. put it back in and it drove it home. Funny how you find things on accident sometimes. That accident probably saved me hours of troubleshooting though. Ever since i have done it 3 times myself on civics/crxs and recommended it 5+ on forums and everyone thinks i'm nuts at first and comes back calling me a hero! May not be the case with your but worth a try.

D

skinny

Okay from now on if you replace your rotor PUT LOCKTITE ON THE SCREW THAT HOLDS IT ON! Thank you. remember to tip your bartenders and parking can be validated by the water fountain.

wagodizzle

wabashky wrote:

May not be the case with your but worth a try.

D

i tried it man, and the rotor is very tightly snug on. and i goes on and off from being bad to running fine.

shenrie

skinny wrote:

Okay from now on if you replace your rotor PUT LOCKTITE ON THE SCREW THAT HOLDS IT ON! Thank you. remember to tip your bartenders and parking can be validated by the water fountain.

Lol, be carefull with locktite man. You will need to replace that rotor again and the screws and allen bolts..whichever you have, are prone to stripping out due to not all that easy access. Theres more than one kind of locktite, just make sure you use the stuff that is NOT permanate

wabashky

Yeah use blue locktite not red or your never getting it off.

As for OP, gotta be the ignitor. Only thing that makes sense now. You can use one from a teg if u don't have a civic one lying around. A usual dead give away for ignitor is brownish black flakes of stuff inside the cap. Hardly noticeable unless it is REALLY far gone.

D

wagodizzle

wabashky wrote:

As for OP, gotta be the ignitor. Only thing that makes sense now. You can use one from a teg if u don't have a civic one lying around. A usual dead give away for ignitor is brownish black flakes of stuff inside the cap. Hardly noticeable unless it is REALLY far gone.

D

i have a lifetime warranty on these distributors, so i can keep taking them back, but thats just getting annoying, and all the other ones i get already look like crap. such cheap looking rebuilds :x anyways so right now im waiting on a couple other potential used ones that actually work(ed) so we'll see how that goes.

fettcols

wabashky wrote:

It was fricking hilarious the first time the rotor thing happened to me, I was 4 hours from home on a work related run and stranded on the side of the road with 104 degree weather in the middle of nowhere back country Lousiana. the engine was backfiring and not 'really' running and dying out. thought about it and decided "timing??" so i tried taking adjusting the dizzy and the bottom most screw just wouldnt budge so i took off the cap to get at it and i heard the screw fall. put it back in and it drove it home. Funny how you find things on accident sometimes. That accident probably saved me hours of troubleshooting though. Ever since i have done it 3 times myself on civics/crxs and recommended it 5+ on forums and everyone thinks i'm nuts at first and comes back calling me a hero! May not be the case with your but worth a try.

D

1992, a hot summer night about 2:30 in the morning, a couple too many beers, sitting at a stoplight with the system a little too loud. The car just shut off and I had to push it off the side of the road. As I was pushing it a tow truck drove by and offered to help. I had it towed home for $35 or $40 I don't really remember. I as all kind of mad when I got up in the afternoon and discovered the rotor thing.

evol911

^^ I like how you said, "when I got up in the afternoon"!

HandofBoB

I've had your symptoms happen to me many a time when dealing with a multi-port coverted vehicle. My problem was always the crank angle sensor wire connecting to the dizzy. It would be a tad loose and not make full contact with the plug. Happened on my crx, civic, wagon, and Neo's wagon when I did his. Make sure pin is fully pressed in to dizzy plug. As for code 1 thats just an o2 sensor, make sure it's plugged in or you may need a new one. I think tractor supply sells them cheap. Hope this helps.

- Mike

Eagle Beagle

Dizzy, my favorite comedy of errors ...

soon we'll have little wagons running around...

whaahaahaha...
luvyamang

wagodizzle

lol luvya too mang

i'll check the electrical connection.

wagodizzle

WOW DAMN FUDGE NUGGETS!

ok, so i got a nice used working OEM Honda Tec dizzy (my 7th dizzy so far), BRAND NEW OEM Honda Tec Cap and Rotor...
and voila, its skipping again. code 4, crank angle sensor. i have no bloody mary idea what can be wrong.

?!?!

the engine itself came from a perfectly fine running car (bam-bam's old D.)..so its not that. frick. anyone know, anything?????