Honda says.....
skinny
Senior Wagonist
They have no more rear differential dampers part number 50716-sh9-000 and no more differential insulators part number 50721-sh9-010. Is there any other parts that will work that come on other cars? I was looking at the insulator and it looks identical to the rear motor mount that sits on the sub frame in 88-91 civics. I havnt gotten out to the pick a part yet to get one and look so I figured I would ask first.
On a lighter note here are some pics of my re-covered head liner. Couldnt find anything in tan or brown. Black just goes well with everything.
On a lighter note here are some pics of my re-covered head liner. Couldnt find anything in tan or brown. Black just goes well with everything.
Comments
Check this site:
http://bkhondaparts.com/billkay/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?catcgry1=CIVIC&catcgry2=1991&catcgry3=WGN+4WD+1600&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=REAR+AXLE&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no&systemcomp=Chassis&prdrefno=&quantity=0&act=&count=0&hidSwitch=Switch&hidIrno=%7C010
About $41 Canadian with the taxes in, which roughly equals about $34 US. You'd have to cover shipping which might be abother $8 max.
Jacques
The way that the chicken bars and dome light stick out is pretty cool. But it looks almost an inch thick. It must be an optical illusion.
I was at the dealer yesterday for something else, and asked what stock was like on the mount. If you want one, speak up now. There's 1 left in Canada.
If you do end up going to Pick a Part, and they have an RT4WD, I need a motor mount. I need the one that is welded to the unibody on the passenger side, just behind the battery. The one that the bolt goes through into the mount that is bolted to the end of the tranny. I need it carefully removed from the chassis. Probably easiest to just take a sawzall or an angle grinder, and cut the unibody around the outside of the mount about 2" away on all sides. I can then drill out the spot welds here and prep it for my install.
If you do that for me, I'll buy you the rear diff mount and send it for $8 shipping.
or you can do it the right way and get a spot weld drill bit, they run 8-15 bucks and its much easyer way to attack the job.
and than back weld the bracket thru the drilled out spot welds back on the new car. nice and clean and done right nobody will ever know you did it
Chassis bit from wrecker:
New RT4WD mount:
Old OEM mount:
2WD chassis waiting for it's new mount:
New mount resting in it's new home waiting for welding:
Ditto:
Engine/tranny mockup for measuring driveshaft length and verifying mount placement:
What the street rubber will look like:
Yup! 17x9 in the back and 17x7.5 in the front. I tried to get another pair of 17x9s but it seems they are discontinued by Falken
i just hope this prevents my car from rocking back and forth if not would really really worn trailing arm bushings cause the motor to rock and sway when i shift hard if the rest of the mounts are good? ( or so they seem.. )