What to look for when buying Civic RT4WD?
vtecn8ive
Senior Wagonist
Sorry for whoring the forum, I just have a lot of questions about these vehicles.
I may possibly be purchasing a beatup 90 RT4WD this weekend for $500. Is there anything I want to look for specifically (or any options I should be on the lookout for)?
I know what to check on the motor but this is my first propellor shaft drive train and I know there a bit of differences from Sedan and Hatchback Civics.
Is there any common problems associated with RT4WD that I should be on the lookout for?
I know its a $500 car and I'm not expecting it to be perfect, but I do have to drive 300 miles back in it
By the way i'm located in the midwest usa.
Thanks,
Shane
I may possibly be purchasing a beatup 90 RT4WD this weekend for $500. Is there anything I want to look for specifically (or any options I should be on the lookout for)?
I know what to check on the motor but this is my first propellor shaft drive train and I know there a bit of differences from Sedan and Hatchback Civics.
Is there any common problems associated with RT4WD that I should be on the lookout for?
I know its a $500 car and I'm not expecting it to be perfect, but I do have to drive 300 miles back in it
By the way i'm located in the midwest usa.
Thanks,
Shane
Comments
What you are looking for is either a bearing sound or thumping on all three runs.
Oh and make sure it actually switches into FWD as well.
Other than the transmission and rear diff/axles there's not a whole lot different.
Check under each guard for rust!
But $500... some people would beat you with a stick if they knew.
I am looking at the RT4WD somewhat soon and it has some "clunking" noise said the owner. He is wanting 500-600 for it.
I am planning to get it if its not to overally rusted (i know it is covered a bit, but as long as the integrity is solid then i'm fine with it).
Then I plan to go to work on figuring out whats wrong with it. He said it has 96k on it. Somehow I'm doubtful, so i'll have to run a carfax to see if its a rolled back odometer. Reason I doubt it is the valve cover is flaky and there is a bit of oil build up on the head/block connecting area (like sludge not wet oil)
It was $500, if I put 300 into it (some minor other work needed to be done) it would have been road worth.
I was kinda kicking myself in the ass for not getting it but at the same time I didn't like the structural damage i saw.
Soooo i'm still on the prowl