Aircon
marc-111
Wagonist
i have a 1990 civic wagon 2wd
i have AC but its no longer cold i need to add some refrigerant but i dont know what to add
is it still using a R12 or i could use a R134a additive?
i have AC but its no longer cold i need to add some refrigerant but i dont know what to add
is it still using a R12 or i could use a R134a additive?
Comments
When it comes time to service your AC, beyond the cost of any repairs, you're faced with a decision.
Pay out the nose for R12 or convert to R134.
Two lbs of freon(R12) costs about the same as a R134 conversion kit and two lbs of R134. The logic behind the conversion is:
1. The next time you have to top off the system, it will cost a fraction of the price.
2. R134 is environmentally safer
3. A lot of regular shops are phasing out R12 so they won't/can't work with it.
Sounds like a no brainer, right? Well here's what they won't tell you...
R134 doesn't cool as well as R12.
A new system designed to use R134 works fine, but only because its specs/capacities were designed for 134s properties. Our old R12 systems were not. Don't get me wrong...it cools, just not as well. And depending on where you live, you might notice. I live in Texas and it makes a difference on the 102 degree day with the typical 60%-90% humidity.
R12 and R134 do not mix. Or rather they do, but violently. That's one of the reasons a system has to fully evacuated during a conversion. Get it all out and things are okay, leave any in and it will cause problems.
With our cars, there are two types of compressors. Matsushita and Sanden. The Sandens convert fine. The Matsushita are prone to problems. It is widely believed that the seals/valves used are slightly absorbant and absorb R12. When the R134 is introduced, any R12 that slowly gets leached out of the seal/valve and has the aforementioned reaction, usually destroying seals in the process. So they have to evacuate the hell out of the system to make sure they got any remaining R12....but most places just do the minimum suction for the sake of time.
This issue only applies to a converted Matsuhita...if you start with a new one, it won't be a problem. A new Matsushita off Ebay runs about $125 last time I checked.
I'm a little leery of the "other" products out there. Stuff like Freeze-12 and Duracool. People experience mixed results. And then theres the flammability issue.
R-134 is a fact of life & its not as good as r-12 :roll: :roll: :roll:
its really hot here in NJ during summer time!!!! :x
You have to evacuate the old R12. You could just vent it BUT while its under pressure, once you get down to near atmospheric, the remaining r12 will just sit in the system. The other problem is that R12 is a nasty pollutant. Venting to the atmosphere is a very very shitty thing to do.
To get the system under adequate levels of vaccum requires special equipment that you obviously don't have.
http://www.hondacivicwagon.com/board/vi ... .php?t=205
I'm the 6th comment down.Could save u some $$$
I got a new orifice thingy and a new can thing that goes in the fender and installed new o-rings everywhere.