too many sensors to count! but, def check the idle sensor, they are usually pretty cheap.
...also have you looked at any other fuel set ups? like a separate fuel system using a hon-data(sp)
i know it usually comes down to money, but your ECU could be the issue, not knowing to inject more fuel when the gas is increased...
so, looking over the instructions... it mentions a sub-harness that needs to be spliced in for idle and high-speed compensation. i did not get this harness.
so, anyone know of this? could this be the cause of my idle issues and higher speed pinging issues?
37. Directly above oil filter is the main wiring
harness for the engine. From this harness
comes the TA(air temperature) subwiring
harness. You will be adding a wire harness
extension (with resistor) to the TA sensor
wires. Cut the stock green wire and red wire
approximately two inches back from the
connector and splice the Jackson Racing
extension harness in line. This harness
must be installed as it carries special resistance
for idle and high speed compensation.
Do not attempt to extend the T. A. wiring
with any other type of harness than the
correct one as serious engine damage will
probably result!!
:shock: well lets just pray to sweet baby jesus marry and the shepherds that there was nothing serious about those pings...esh......btw just realized something shepherds looks like sheep herds...huh. anywho. pull out that main harness one more time!
so i was reading up on my Haynes manual the causes of engine pinging... one suggestion was spark plugs. so i checked them out.. and boy, what a mess.... :shock: they were yellow glazed, and also had some oil deposits on them
pics...
anyways so i changed them out for these old plugs i had laying around. and there was a difference straight up! so anyways, VERDICT = need new colder plugs.
the yellow/orange look is from the octane booster. it mmt the additive that makes the octane higher. its a cheap way to get some boost in octane but it will foul plugs and the o2 sensor. same goes with leaded race gas, only every thing turns dark grey with that stuff. best to stay away from both! find unleaded race fuel if you can.
also gap your plugs smaller and get some plugs with the colder heat range. this will help things alot!
black is not the sign of det, if you look closer you will see little silver specks on the tip, looks like powderd silver salt. just one quest, when you did your mpfi convertion did you change the head too? mabie did you mess with the timing belt? ok 2 ques, how much was the dizzy advanced or retarded before the charger? may try looking at the belt timing, sohc's run pretty good 1 tooth advanced with the dizzy retarded a little, at least the 1..5's do si ecu is pretty agressive fuel and timing curves for the smaller displacement so its like a peformance chipped ecu for the 1.5, so what im saying is if you had a timing gear that you could adjust, lets say 1 tooth on the belt would equil 2 marks advance wich equil 4 deg. advance. just a posibility
the engine block is completely stock. i did change the timing belt though this summer. the dizzy timing was set in the middle (zero*..?)
sounds like a big possibility though. not sure if this is relevant or the same but i remember having a little issue: like going down a big hill and i would let off the gas i could feel the gas "skip" or jerk a little. like backfiring possibly.
when i didnt have my muffler, just a straight pipe there was quite a bit of backfire going down a hill without hitting the gas.
the engine block is completely stock. i did change the timing belt though this summer. the dizzy timing was set in the middle (zero*..?)
sounds like a big possibility though. not sure if this is relevant or the same but i remember having a little issue: like going down a big hill and i would let off the gas i could feel the gas "skip" or jerk a little. like backfiring possibly.
when i didnt have my muffler, just a straight pipe there was quite a bit of backfire going down a hill without hitting the gas.
hmmmm
sound like something to check out, backfire is unburned fuel, advance is sparking the plug before the cycle is finished, to much and you dont burn fuel and things get hot, and works the other way as well (retarded) thats why its called tuned. i just had a funny way of thinking haha, have you ever been on a trampoline? how about with 2 people? ok things work great when 1 is in the air and the other is on the bounce, but get out of sink what happens? you get messed up energy somebody end up in the dirt, advance is like this in a small way when the other guy comes down a little early and you come down to catch some of that recoil of the mat and you get a nice powerful jump more than just alone. just say thats 14 deg advance. ok get that next jump to come together a little sooner what happens? detination, 1 guy gets a jolt and the other is out of control, well that means the jolt guy is a broken rod or piston, and the other guy is just damage, mouth full of sand sorry i see things in a strange way i suppose.
i hate agonising little step
by step improvements ...
drives me nuts ...
...and stop tickling
haha no kidding dude. its been pretty agonizing for me as well.
It's been agonizing for everyone reading these dreadful threads you've made
Boost leaks ALWAYS make your car run like turd (they have an extremely hard time running because unless you at some funky stuff, most turds do not have legs)! Hopefully you didn't stop there and you made sure that there are no other leaks (also make sure that AFTER this one is buttoned up that you RECHECK again because another leak can easily be masked by this one).
1) make sure you set your ignition timing to 10-12 degrees BTDC (start @ 10 ey)
2) clean your "new" plugs if they are coated
3) make sure your mechanical timing is 100% correct
4) RECHECK RECHECK RECHECK for boost leaks again
5) find the jumper harness for your IACV OR call JR and find out what type of resistors are used and make your own from radioshack
6) once its running right take some fucking videos for those of us that have been waiting for what seems like forever!
its hard to do that spray check on the JRSC because its all so crammed and tight. i spray everything i could reach, and didnt see anything other then the TB. its coming tomorrow (special order) so we'll see what happens.
also i checked my timing belt, set piston #1 at TDC and sure enough, the tick marks in the cam gear were off a good bit from the cylinder head. so i undid all that and moved it up a tooth. its pretty level now. reinstalled my stock under-drive pulley (i had a JR one, but it was rubbing pretty bad against the lower timing belt cover, also there are no timing marks on it). anyways..
waiting on that TB gasket. stay tuned, hope for the best, expect the worst
8) its all good, now others know a trick for NA mpfi converted 1.5's. it wont work for the 1.6 but on a buget it works well with the usual bolt ons for the 1.5. but of course timing gears are the best way to do the trick.
now it seems dizzle that you will be having some boosted fun sooner than later cant wait to hear the feedback!
reinstalled my stock under-drive pulley (i had a JR one, but it was rubbing pretty bad against the lower timing belt cover, also there are no timing marks on it). anyways..
If you were using the JRSC black all aluminum crank pulley, you're lucky you didn't kick the belt. That is the D16Y7/Y8 pulley and has a bunch of offset built into it especially for the Y7/Y8 chassis/blower combination. You need to use the OEM D series pulleys on your Wagon, unless you are also using the Y7/Y8 blower manifold.
Also, I've had a lot of luck over the years re-using gaskets and such by smearing a really thin layer of light grease on the surfaces of the gasket to stop them sticking to the surfaces they're sealing. They still seal perfectly, and you can pop them off and on a bunch of times before they get a little worn, and might not seal so well anymore. Then I get out the Permatex Ultra Grey (cheaper version of Honda Bond, and works just as well). A thin film of Ultra Grey on the gasket makes them seal better than new. Now that I'm lazy, and not so broke anymore, I just pop for new gaskets when I take stuff apart. I still do the light film of grease though. It just makes things easier to take apart: no sticking gaksets.
It's been about 8 year since I've used any kind of gasket on my exhaust manifold/header to cylinder head interface, and it's been at least that long since I've had any kind of exhaust leak. I thank Larry at Endyn for setting me on the path of Permatex Ultra Copper for sealing these. A thin 1/8" bead of Ultra Copper around each port on the header (which was cleaned with Acetone before hand) as well as cleaning the head surface with Acetone, let the bead of Ultra Copper stage/dry for about 1 hour, bolt the header to the head, being careful to not mash the crap out of the Ultra Copper until the header flange is square to the head, and the nuts are getting tightened evenly. Tighten the nuts to the normal torque, squishing the Ultra Copper out around the flange. Let it cure overnight. You now have a seal that will never leak again. The Ultra Copper flexes nicely to keep a perfect seal, but it will not blow out, or erode to allow a leak.
screw this crap.. im going to sell it and go DOHC ZC. FML.
so i got the new gasket and everything... idles fine.
go to test drive it, no pinging or anything. good. EXCEPT... it LACKS so much fricking power it feels slower then stock!!! :!: :!: :x :x
i pull back in my drive way, and it can;t idle anymore. its so low it keeps cutting off. so i go to up the idle setting and the screw is so tight it wont budge, it just starts stripping. on top of that a spark plug broke INSIDE the cylinder when i was going to check it to see whats up.
FUCK MY LIFE.
so now im trying to glue the two parts of the plug together and see if i can pull it out. if not im royal screwed.
and im serious about selling the JRSC.
any takers? $1000 takes all. (just not the fuel pump) i'll even throw in an EDM gauge cluster as that shit isnt selling either.
You should let the cylinder head cool down before you pull the plugs :oops: I'm sure you probably know this but aluminum swells around steel when its hot, might be why the idle screw is stuck also.
Comments
...also have you looked at any other fuel set ups? like a separate fuel system using a hon-data(sp)
i know it usually comes down to money, but your ECU could be the issue, not knowing to inject more fuel when the gas is increased...
Then again this is all speculation.
so, anyone know of this? could this be the cause of my idle issues and higher speed pinging issues?
Told ya not to ditch the SC yet.
harness for the engine. From this harness
comes the TA(air temperature) subwiring
harness. You will be adding a wire harness
extension (with resistor) to the TA sensor
wires. Cut the stock green wire and red wire
approximately two inches back from the
connector and splice the Jackson Racing
extension harness in line. This harness
must be installed as it carries special resistance
for idle and high speed compensation.
Do not attempt to extend the T. A. wiring
with any other type of harness than the
correct one as serious engine damage will
probably result!!
pics...
anyways so i changed them out for these old plugs i had laying around. and there was a difference straight up! so anyways, VERDICT = need new colder plugs.
check out my other thread lol.
also gap your plugs smaller and get some plugs with the colder heat range. this will help things alot!
i knew i should have stayed away from that octane booster BS. :roll:
sounds like a big possibility though. not sure if this is relevant or the same but i remember having a little issue: like going down a big hill and i would let off the gas i could feel the gas "skip" or jerk a little. like backfiring possibly.
when i didnt have my muffler, just a straight pipe there was quite a bit of backfire going down a hill without hitting the gas.
hmmmm
sound like something to check out, backfire is unburned fuel, advance is sparking the plug before the cycle is finished, to much and you dont burn fuel and things get hot, and works the other way as well (retarded) thats why its called tuned. i just had a funny way of thinking haha, have you ever been on a trampoline? how about with 2 people? ok things work great when 1 is in the air and the other is on the bounce, but get out of sink what happens? you get messed up energy somebody end up in the dirt, advance is like this in a small way when the other guy comes down a little early and you come down to catch some of that recoil of the mat and you get a nice powerful jump more than just alone. just say thats 14 deg advance. ok get that next jump to come together a little sooner what happens? detination, 1 guy gets a jolt and the other is out of control, well that means the jolt guy is a broken rod or piston, and the other guy is just damage, mouth full of sand
HAHAHA
thanks for the advice everyone.. today is the big day.
new gasket is on the way. should get here in a couple hours.
Here's hoping for you! I can't wait to see what this baby can do at full steam... :twisted:
by step improvements ...
drives me nuts ...
...and stop tickling
haha no kidding dude. its been pretty agonizing for me as well.
It's been agonizing for everyone reading these dreadful threads you've made
Boost leaks ALWAYS make your car run like turd (they have an extremely hard time running because unless you at some funky stuff, most turds do not have legs)! Hopefully you didn't stop there and you made sure that there are no other leaks (also make sure that AFTER this one is buttoned up that you RECHECK again because another leak can easily be masked by this one).
1) make sure you set your ignition timing to 10-12 degrees BTDC (start @ 10 ey)
2) clean your "new" plugs if they are coated
3) make sure your mechanical timing is 100% correct
4) RECHECK RECHECK RECHECK for boost leaks again
5) find the jumper harness for your IACV OR call JR and find out what type of resistors are used and make your own from radioshack
6) once its running right take some fucking videos for those of us that have been waiting for what seems like forever!
Keep updating dude, almost there!
its hard to do that spray check on the JRSC because its all so crammed and tight. i spray everything i could reach, and didnt see anything other then the TB. its coming tomorrow (special order) so we'll see what happens.
also i checked my timing belt, set piston #1 at TDC and sure enough, the tick marks in the cam gear were off a good bit from the cylinder head. so i undid all that and moved it up a tooth. its pretty level now. reinstalled my stock under-drive pulley (i had a JR one, but it was rubbing pretty bad against the lower timing belt cover, also there are no timing marks on it). anyways..
waiting on that TB gasket. stay tuned, hope for the best, expect the worst
Martin is probably one of them! LOL
now it seems dizzle that you will be having some boosted fun sooner than later
If you were using the JRSC black all aluminum crank pulley, you're lucky you didn't kick the belt. That is the D16Y7/Y8 pulley and has a bunch of offset built into it especially for the Y7/Y8 chassis/blower combination. You need to use the OEM D series pulleys on your Wagon, unless you are also using the Y7/Y8 blower manifold.
Also, I've had a lot of luck over the years re-using gaskets and such by smearing a really thin layer of light grease on the surfaces of the gasket to stop them sticking to the surfaces they're sealing. They still seal perfectly, and you can pop them off and on a bunch of times before they get a little worn, and might not seal so well anymore. Then I get out the Permatex Ultra Grey (cheaper version of Honda Bond, and works just as well). A thin film of Ultra Grey on the gasket makes them seal better than new. Now that I'm lazy, and not so broke anymore, I just pop for new gaskets when I take stuff apart. I still do the light film of grease though. It just makes things easier to take apart: no sticking gaksets.
It's been about 8 year since I've used any kind of gasket on my exhaust manifold/header to cylinder head interface, and it's been at least that long since I've had any kind of exhaust leak. I thank Larry at Endyn for setting me on the path of Permatex Ultra Copper for sealing these. A thin 1/8" bead of Ultra Copper around each port on the header (which was cleaned with Acetone before hand) as well as cleaning the head surface with Acetone, let the bead of Ultra Copper stage/dry for about 1 hour, bolt the header to the head, being careful to not mash the crap out of the Ultra Copper until the header flange is square to the head, and the nuts are getting tightened evenly. Tighten the nuts to the normal torque, squishing the Ultra Copper out around the flange. Let it cure overnight. You now have a seal that will never leak again. The Ultra Copper flexes nicely to keep a perfect seal, but it will not blow out, or erode to allow a leak.
so i got the new gasket and everything... idles fine.
go to test drive it, no pinging or anything. good. EXCEPT... it LACKS so much fricking power it feels slower then stock!!! :!: :!: :x :x
i pull back in my drive way, and it can;t idle anymore. its so low it keeps cutting off. so i go to up the idle setting and the screw is so tight it wont budge, it just starts stripping. on top of that a spark plug broke INSIDE the cylinder when i was going to check it to see whats up.
FUCK MY LIFE.
so now im trying to glue the two parts of the plug together and see if i can pull it out. if not im royal screwed.
and im serious about selling the JRSC.
any takers? $1000 takes all. (just not the fuel pump) i'll even throw in an EDM gauge cluster as that shit isnt selling either.
if thats because of the A/F mixture, how do i set that...
Tuning.