im looking for a performance or better than oe brake shoes for 88 rt4wd waggy. is there such an animal out there? is there like a ebc.ferodo.brembo or any? coz im not doin any rear disk coversion just yet.
I've done the Legend dual piston caliper (same and the NSX, but better!) w/ prelude 11" rotors on my del sol. EX knuckles were nessesary to fit the caliper correctly. I use 16" wheels, its a tight fit, but I'm going to try a 15" for drag.
Do you have some more detailed info on this? I can get some legend calipers and i was wondering how they fit onto the different hubs.
I've done the Legend dual piston caliper (same and the NSX, but better!) w/ prelude 11" rotors on my del sol. EX knuckles were nessesary to fit the caliper correctly. I use 16" wheels, its a tight fit, but I'm going to try a 15" for drag.
Do you have some more detailed info on this? I can get some legend calipers and i was wondering how they fit onto the different hubs.
thanks in advance
[/quote:by71wshv]
Ditto.. this i wanna know details on this too. im might have to do this too. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I've done the Legend dual piston caliper (same and the NSX, but better!) w/ prelude 11" rotors on my del sol. EX knuckles were nessesary to fit the caliper correctly. I use 16" wheels, its a tight fit, but I'm going to try a 15" for drag.
Do you have some more detailed info on this? I can get some legend calipers and i was wondering how they fit onto the different hubs.
thanks in advance
Ditto.. this i wanna know details on this too. im might have to do this too. Any help would be greatly appreciated.[/quote:1f377hhs]
Just keep in mind that unless you have swapped EX front suspension onto your wagon then any year DX brake setup(88 and up) is the same, so when they talk about swapping the prelude 11.1 rotor with the CL calipers on to the 96 Civic DX suspension it will work for all wagons since we are essentially a DX setup when it comes to brakes. DX=9.5in rotors.
What is the differences between 88-91 Civic Ex front brakes and 88-91 Civic rt4wd?
I'm well aware the Ex are a larger setup, but how much larger then the rt4wd? Or are the rt4wd the same as lx/dx/si models?
I had always thought the ex and rt4wd were the same size until I noticed people were swapping the rt4wd out for ex.
Thanks for the clarification,
Shane
EX uses the 10.3" rotor(same as 90-93 Integra) and larger hub. Rt4wd uses the 9.5" rotor, basically the same setup as all DX model Civics from 88-2000. Because of the different sizes of the rotors, the calipers are mounted differently i.e. the EX caliper would be mounted further out because of the larger disc. So if you were to run a larger rotor on a DX spindle you have to have an adaptor to push the caliper/bracket out to clear the rotor. And if you run the 5 lug 11.1" and + rotors they have to be redrilled to 4 x 100 and have a ring machined to keep the rotor centered since you can't use the countersunk centering screw. Check this out, its a little better explaining a real simple 11.1" brake upgrade just to get you thinkin in the right direction. The point is you can do a big brake upgrade with DX(RT4wd) spindle but EX is easier.
So theoratically I could put rt4wd calipers on a dx knuckle is what you are saying? Or do the tabs need to be out farther due to the larger rotor (which would make sense)?
I want to keep 14inch wheels so I'm not interested in 11.1 or something crazy. Ex will be just fine.
So theoratically I could put rt4wd calipers on a dx knuckle is what you are saying? Or do the tabs need to be out farther due to the larger rotor (which would make sense)?
I want to keep 14inch wheels so I'm not interested in 11.1 or something crazy. Ex will be just fine.
thanks for the info.
Dooood :roll: Rt4wd calipers are the same as a DX. EX is the bigger setup! All Civics use the 9.5" setup except the EX. There is nothing special about the RT4wd brakes except that the rear drum is wider I think. If you want the EX setup then you need the corresponding year EX knuckle.
DIY: 11.1" Brakes on Civic DX knuckles. No need for EX or Integra knuckles!
Taken from Honda-Tech.com: Honda Civic/Del Sol (1992 - 2000): DIY: 11.1" brakes on DX knuckles at long last!!!http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2211498 with props to BrakeExpert. Figured I'd share.
This applies for:
1988-2000 Honda Civic DX LX VX HX CX models
1988-1995 Honda Civic Si without ABS (9.5" front brakes)
This will also work for any 88-00 Civic or 90-01 Integra that has DX Civic knuckles on it (9.5" brakes).
As some of you may have known, I (BrakeExpert) am nuts about brakes. Problem is that DX (and CX, LX, etc) with the 9.5” front brakes have a different shaped steering knuckle; the mounting tabs for the brakes are pulled in closer, so all of the brake options available for the big 4x100 hubs on the EX knuckles(which are a LOT of options) are not going to work on the DX knuckles. Well after enough testing and screwing with parts, I (BrakeExpert) found out that the only upgrade you can put on DX knuckles was 10.3" brakes and ITR calipers. Well now I (BrakeExpert) have figured out how to have the full 11.1" rotors on!
PRELUDE: This will cover how to convert your front 9.5" Honda brakes on the 88-00 Civic non-EX models into 11.1" CL front brakes. This upgrade will improve your braking performance. This setup offers a larger sweeping area, a very strong caliper, much larger pad, increased brake torque over a larger disc rotor, increased resistance to fade, and Honda reliability. This setup uses stock knuckles and stock brake hoses. If you are getting a kit from BrakeExpert, the modifications have been made and it is a bolt on uograde.
NECESSARY MODIFICATION: The rotors must be redrilled to 4x100 and custom aluminum rotor centering rings will be needed to ensure there is no radial vibration.. These redrilled rotors are safe because the lug stud holes have no sideways force exerted on them. The pressure from the lug nuts transfers throughout the whole face of the rotor's hat. The rotor is centered on the hub and the lug holes are there only to allow the studs to go through the rotor's hat and wheel's lug holes. The lug studs will not touch the rotor at all.
The rotors are a bit too tall and will hit the bracket when new. The bracket must be milled at the back where the knuckle mounting tabs are. Because this affects the caliper's contact angle, this machine work must be parallel like stock. A milling machine is required with a dial indicatior to ensure the cuts are each made the same depth to within .001". The brackets will not work stock, they will not bolt up to the knuckle and the hangar will lightly rub on the rotor's hat. The bracket should have a notch grinded at the backside to prevent it from hitting the knuckle. It should also be grinded carefully on the underside of the hangar to prevent this rubbing. I reccomend painting or coating this part to prevent any possibility of rust causing weakening over long periods of time. Also, since this is a custom setup and fitment is very tight, the retainer clips must be modified to have the part in the bracket's throat removed. This should be done with the proper dremel or metal cutting jig-saw very carefully. This is spring steel, which is difficult to cut, so be careful as a mis cut can cause the metal to break or crack in the middle.
INSTALLATION:
Ok so heres what's involved. 03 Acura CL front calipers, brackets and pads, 96 Prelude VTEC rotors, rotor centering rings, and machine work.
You will need access to a machine shop to make this work, or PM BrakeExpert on Honda-Tech and he can take care of it for you.
1. Acquire all parts and tools.
2. Engage e-brake and put the car in Park or first. Jack up the nose of car and put the car on jackstands in the front.
3. Unbolt the lug nuts and remove the wheel.
4. Break the rotor retainer screws loose with the impact wrench. This may not be necessary if your screws are not rusted or you used anti-seize, but may be needed on older cars.
5. Remove the banjo bolt that connects the brake hose to the caliper. Now it gets messy, remember not to touch your car's paint with brake fluid on your hands.
6. Remove the 17mm bolts that hold the caliper to the steering knuckle. Remove the caliper.
7. Place the rotor centering ring on the hub.
8. Place the 11.1" rotor on the hub and use a lug nut to keep it in place.
9. Bolt the CL caliper with its brackets and pads onto the knuckle and torque the 17mm bolts to 80lb-ft.
10. Bolt the brake hose onto the caliper and torque to 30lb-ft if reusing your old crush washers. I reccomend new ones every time, but the old ones can get a second use if you overtighten just a bit (don't exceed 35lb-ft, you don't want to mess up these threads.
11. Pump the brake pedal enough to get the pads to clamp the rotor. The pedal will be soft since there is air in the system because it hasn't been bled yet.
12. Remove the lug nut and put the wheel on. Torque your lug nuts to 75lb-ft for aluminum wheels, 80lb-ft for steel wheels.
13. Do the same for the other side.
14. If you are upgrading the master cylinder, remove the MC by unbolting the 10mm bolts on the hardlines with a brake line wrench and then the 12mm bolts from the brake booster.
15. Bench bleed the master cylinder. If you are lazy and don't mind making a mess, fill the resovoir with brake fluid with the new MC out of the car. Use a screwdriver to push into the cylinder bore(EK/98+ Teg) or press on the piston if this is an EG/94-97 Teg. Do this about 6 times, fluid will gush out of the two holes.
16. Install the master cylinder onto the brake booster and tighten the 12mm bolts and then tighten the 10mm brake line bolts.
17. Your brakes are on. The new brakes must be bled. Use either a factory service manual for bleeding procedures, or check online for a standard bleeding procedure on hydraulic brakes. The proper bleeding order for Civics/Integras is Right Rear, then Left Front, then Left Rear, then Right Front. This is because of the crossed brake system; do not go by the method of fartest to closest (to the master cylinder). I reccomend bleeding the whole car, however if you are not changing the master cylinder (and you do not have ABS), you can bleed just the front brakes, however I reccomend bleeding all 4 brakes anyway.
18. Bleed the brakes.
19. Your brakes are on! Ensure the pedal can stop the car by removing the bricks, releasing the e-brake, and moving the car slightly. Stop the car with the pedal, if it does not stop, use the e-brake and check the brake system for bubbles by bleeding the car again.
20. Brake in your new brakes pads by standard brake pad brake in procedure. I reccomend finding an empty straightaway. Get the car upto 50mph and hit the brakes lightly, slowing the car to 10mph, but not to a complete stop. Do this about ten times, not giving your brakes time to cool in between. Your brakes will be pretty warm afterwards, so find a place to stop the car and let the brakes cool to under 100 degrees if possible.
21. Enjoy having stronger than Type-R brakes without having to source and install new steering knuckles! Enjoy having the ability to stop your car at high speeds without fading all the time!
The end result will look like this:
"This is the biggest OEM brake upgrade that will fit under a 15in rim. The difference is literally day and night. The kit came with everything i needed to simply bolt right on, and everything went on smoothly.
I highly recomend this kit for anyone thats looking for an OEM brake upgrade."- B18C-R(EG)
by BrakeExpert on Honda-Tech
Feel free to ask any questions or IM BrakeExpert on Honda-Tech if you need parts/machining for this setup
Ok so heres what's involved. 03 Acura CL front calipers, brackets and pads, 96 Prelude VTEC rotors...
The only part that's NOT Honda is the ."rotor centering rings(between $50-$100 usd depending on the complexity), and machine work((milling & redrilling)around $70-$100 usd)".
hey Surge, still lookin good. PM me on here as I can't figure out how to PM you. Still working out well?
For anyone looking for BrakeExpert (that's me) obviously I'm not on honda-tech because I got banned with the rest of the mob when they did their big software change. If you need replacement rotors, I now have the centering screw holes CNC drilled and beveled so you use the centering screws (so the rings arent essential anymore.) I don't make the rings anymore except for one unusual setup.
:shock: Am I understanding you correctly.So If I'm doing a rotor upgrade that has the 2 centering screws .I DO NOT need the ring.
Does this apply to a rotor upgrades where the rotor center hole is too large ,but has the 2 centering screws(except in that unusual set-up you mentioned)?
Yes that's right. If the rotor's centering hole is too large, you can use this method to center the disc. The only hubs that won't work are drum hubs as those do not use centering screws because the hub is lightened with 4 large holes honda put in it.
what master cyl. upgrades would be reccomended for running the ls rotor/ legend calipers? any brake boosters compatable ? i have the RT4wd and my brakes feel like shit and the master cyl is leaking
I am having a hard time finding a definitive answer if a 15'' wheel will fit over a V6 Legend dual caliper setup? I am not sure which rotors to go with yet. Preludes need to be redrilled but I have read that early 90's VW Corrado's had 10'' rotors and I know they are 4x100.
I want/NEED bigger brakes! .... But i want to keep my 13's.... Im rocking that all stock, sleeper look.
Am i SOL on going bigger to fit under the 13's?
Maaaybe ill go my 92-93 GSR wheels if i must, but my baby doesn't stop for crap.
Not good for a GSR powered wag.
Mandalore88's answer:15's should fit .Here's my logic.ITR(V6 Accord)& your 2-pot caliper require the same mod (& rtr)to mount on the Civic.Why the VW rotor?You can run a Civic 10.3 or 9.5 rotors W/ITR caliper so run those on your 2-pot caliper.I think the next paragraph is a better choice.There are several reasons I'd stay away from the the 2-pot:1)Hard to find2)more $$$ for both the cal & pads3)don't believe it's that much better if any.Do your homework as far as caliper strength & aftermrkt pad availiblity.
90-EE's answer: Yes you can keep the 13's.Use either Accord I4 90-02(dx,ex,lx,se) or Accord V6 91-97(lx,ex) frt. calipers .Use either the milled caliper(less safe IMO) method or the rotor spacer/longer stud method.I think the OEM 13's clear.You may need to grind the caliper down a little to clear VX wheels.
klum's answer:90-93 Integra 15/16'' MC/booster(non-abs).Check for booster clearance.DC 1" MC/booster,BUT you'll need to rebend one of the hardlines & watch :shock: far booster clearance probs during installation(I think).
Mandalore88's answer:15's should fit .Here's my logic.ITR(V6 Accord)& your 2-pot caliper require the same mod (& rtr)to mount on the Civic.Why the VW rotor?You can run a Civic 10.3 or 9.5 rotors W/ITR caliper so run those on your 2-pot caliper.I think the next paragraph is a better choice.There are several reasons I'd stay away from the the 2-pot:1)Hard to find2)more $$$ for both the cal & pads3)don't believe it's that much better if any.Do your homework as far as caliper strength & aftermrkt pad availiblity.
90-EE's answer: Yes you can keep the 13's.Use either Accord I4 90-02(dx,ex,lx,se) or Accord V6 91-97(lx,ex) frt. calipers .Use either the milled caliper(less safe IMO) method or the rotor spacer/longer stud method.I think the OEM 13's clear.You may need to grind the caliper down a little to clear VX wheels.
klum's answer:90-93 Integra 15/16'' MC/booster(non-abs).Check for booster clearance.DC 1" MC/booster,BUT you'll need to rebend one of the hardlines & watch :shock: far booster clearance probs during installation(I think).
Thanks for all the advice. I appreciate it.
I can't find any definitive answer if the V6 Legend 2-pot calipers have a significant increase in stopping power. I will probably go with the Accord wagon/CR-V/Oddsey calipers. According to oreilyauto.com they are pretty common
As far as going with the VW Corrado '90 rotors, I was mistaken they are 11''. I just figured it would be easier/cheaper than getting Prelude VTEC ones redrilled. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... &ppt=C0009
My follow up question if anyone would mind chiming in is there any drawbacks to using DA knuckles for this? Everyone always talks about using them for brake upgrades. I am not asking if they bolt up, just are the knuckles identical to the EX ones?
Do you really need DA brakes? Have you driven an EX they stop on a dime and will be alot cheeper cause people think cause an integra that is worth its weight in gold. Just go with ex and save some money for some nice pads (napa makes awsome pads, use Brembo rotors in the Gold class stuff) No trying to be rude but just saying dont waste your money
Do you really need DA brakes? Have you driven an EX they stop on a dime and will be alot cheeper cause people think cause an integra that is worth its weight in gold. Just go with ex and save some money for some nice pads (napa makes awsome pads, use Brembo rotors in the Gold class stuff) No trying to be rude but just saying dont waste your money
For sure man, if I knew of any EX knuckles it would be a no contest. All EX in local yards are picked clean, or crushed by 1 or two cars piled on top of them.
so we have a definitive answer as to which one of the mentioned 15/16 master cylinders are Direct bolt on without modification ?
89 lxi accord? 15/16? or what boosters work for that matter
integra 90-93 mc/booster direct? or will i have issues ?
Just a note to those who are doing the prelude caliper swap. The 1st gen odyssey calipers/brackets are the same as the prelude ones and might be a bit easier to get at the wreckers
Comments
please share your thoughts................thanks
wagon.........4ever
What is the differences between 88-91 Civic Ex front brakes and 88-91 Civic rt4wd?
I'm well aware the Ex are a larger setup, but how much larger then the rt4wd? Or are the rt4wd the same as lx/dx/si models?
I had always thought the ex and rt4wd were the same size until I noticed people were swapping the rt4wd out for ex.
Thanks for the clarification,
Shane
EX uses the 10.3" rotor(same as 90-93 Integra) and larger hub. Rt4wd uses the 9.5" rotor, basically the same setup as all DX model Civics from 88-2000. Because of the different sizes of the rotors, the calipers are mounted differently i.e. the EX caliper would be mounted further out because of the larger disc. So if you were to run a larger rotor on a DX spindle you have to have an adaptor to push the caliper/bracket out to clear the rotor. And if you run the 5 lug 11.1" and + rotors they have to be redrilled to 4 x 100 and have a ring machined to keep the rotor centered since you can't use the countersunk centering screw. Check this out, its a little better explaining a real simple 11.1" brake upgrade just to get you thinkin in the right direction. The point is you can do a big brake upgrade with DX(RT4wd) spindle but EX is easier.
I want to keep 14inch wheels so I'm not interested in 11.1 or something crazy. Ex will be just fine.
thanks for the info.
Dooood :roll: Rt4wd calipers are the same as a DX. EX is the bigger setup! All Civics use the 9.5" setup except the EX. There is nothing special about the RT4wd brakes except that the rear drum is wider I think. If you want the EX setup then you need the corresponding year EX knuckle.
here I was thinking the dx/si/lx front knuckles were 9.2 thats why I was a little confused.
Cool thanks for the insight. I'll be putting Ex front knuckles on this weekend.
-Shane
Taken from Honda-Tech.com: Honda Civic/Del Sol (1992 - 2000): DIY: 11.1" brakes on DX knuckles at long last!!!http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2211498 with props to BrakeExpert. Figured I'd share.
This applies for:
1988-2000 Honda Civic DX LX VX HX CX models
1988-1995 Honda Civic Si without ABS (9.5" front brakes)
This will also work for any 88-00 Civic or 90-01 Integra that has DX Civic knuckles on it (9.5" brakes).
As some of you may have known, I (BrakeExpert) am nuts about brakes. Problem is that DX (and CX, LX, etc) with the 9.5” front brakes have a different shaped steering knuckle; the mounting tabs for the brakes are pulled in closer, so all of the brake options available for the big 4x100 hubs on the EX knuckles(which are a LOT of options) are not going to work on the DX knuckles. Well after enough testing and screwing with parts, I (BrakeExpert) found out that the only upgrade you can put on DX knuckles was 10.3" brakes and ITR calipers. Well now I (BrakeExpert) have figured out how to have the full 11.1" rotors on!
PRELUDE: This will cover how to convert your front 9.5" Honda brakes on the 88-00 Civic non-EX models into 11.1" CL front brakes. This upgrade will improve your braking performance. This setup offers a larger sweeping area, a very strong caliper, much larger pad, increased brake torque over a larger disc rotor, increased resistance to fade, and Honda reliability. This setup uses stock knuckles and stock brake hoses. If you are getting a kit from BrakeExpert, the modifications have been made and it is a bolt on uograde.
NECESSARY MODIFICATION: The rotors must be redrilled to 4x100 and custom aluminum rotor centering rings will be needed to ensure there is no radial vibration.. These redrilled rotors are safe because the lug stud holes have no sideways force exerted on them. The pressure from the lug nuts transfers throughout the whole face of the rotor's hat. The rotor is centered on the hub and the lug holes are there only to allow the studs to go through the rotor's hat and wheel's lug holes. The lug studs will not touch the rotor at all.
The rotors are a bit too tall and will hit the bracket when new. The bracket must be milled at the back where the knuckle mounting tabs are. Because this affects the caliper's contact angle, this machine work must be parallel like stock. A milling machine is required with a dial indicatior to ensure the cuts are each made the same depth to within .001". The brackets will not work stock, they will not bolt up to the knuckle and the hangar will lightly rub on the rotor's hat. The bracket should have a notch grinded at the backside to prevent it from hitting the knuckle. It should also be grinded carefully on the underside of the hangar to prevent this rubbing. I reccomend painting or coating this part to prevent any possibility of rust causing weakening over long periods of time. Also, since this is a custom setup and fitment is very tight, the retainer clips must be modified to have the part in the bracket's throat removed. This should be done with the proper dremel or metal cutting jig-saw very carefully. This is spring steel, which is difficult to cut, so be careful as a mis cut can cause the metal to break or crack in the middle.
Tools: 17mm wrench, 14mm wrench, 12mm wrench, phillips screwdriver, 19mm deep socket, socket wrench, 10mm wrench, torque wrench, rags, 10mm brake line wrench (optional), impact wrench (optional), ball scratcher (optional.)
INSTALLATION:
Ok so heres what's involved. 03 Acura CL front calipers, brackets and pads, 96 Prelude VTEC rotors, rotor centering rings, and machine work.
You will need access to a machine shop to make this work, or PM BrakeExpert on Honda-Tech and he can take care of it for you.
1. Acquire all parts and tools.
2. Engage e-brake and put the car in Park or first. Jack up the nose of car and put the car on jackstands in the front.
3. Unbolt the lug nuts and remove the wheel.
4. Break the rotor retainer screws loose with the impact wrench. This may not be necessary if your screws are not rusted or you used anti-seize, but may be needed on older cars.
5. Remove the banjo bolt that connects the brake hose to the caliper. Now it gets messy, remember not to touch your car's paint with brake fluid on your hands.
6. Remove the 17mm bolts that hold the caliper to the steering knuckle. Remove the caliper.
7. Place the rotor centering ring on the hub.
8. Place the 11.1" rotor on the hub and use a lug nut to keep it in place.
9. Bolt the CL caliper with its brackets and pads onto the knuckle and torque the 17mm bolts to 80lb-ft.
10. Bolt the brake hose onto the caliper and torque to 30lb-ft if reusing your old crush washers. I reccomend new ones every time, but the old ones can get a second use if you overtighten just a bit (don't exceed 35lb-ft, you don't want to mess up these threads.
11. Pump the brake pedal enough to get the pads to clamp the rotor. The pedal will be soft since there is air in the system because it hasn't been bled yet.
12. Remove the lug nut and put the wheel on. Torque your lug nuts to 75lb-ft for aluminum wheels, 80lb-ft for steel wheels.
13. Do the same for the other side.
14. If you are upgrading the master cylinder, remove the MC by unbolting the 10mm bolts on the hardlines with a brake line wrench and then the 12mm bolts from the brake booster.
15. Bench bleed the master cylinder. If you are lazy and don't mind making a mess, fill the resovoir with brake fluid with the new MC out of the car. Use a screwdriver to push into the cylinder bore(EK/98+ Teg) or press on the piston if this is an EG/94-97 Teg. Do this about 6 times, fluid will gush out of the two holes.
16. Install the master cylinder onto the brake booster and tighten the 12mm bolts and then tighten the 10mm brake line bolts.
17. Your brakes are on. The new brakes must be bled. Use either a factory service manual for bleeding procedures, or check online for a standard bleeding procedure on hydraulic brakes. The proper bleeding order for Civics/Integras is Right Rear, then Left Front, then Left Rear, then Right Front. This is because of the crossed brake system; do not go by the method of fartest to closest (to the master cylinder). I reccomend bleeding the whole car, however if you are not changing the master cylinder (and you do not have ABS), you can bleed just the front brakes, however I reccomend bleeding all 4 brakes anyway.
18. Bleed the brakes.
19. Your brakes are on! Ensure the pedal can stop the car by removing the bricks, releasing the e-brake, and moving the car slightly. Stop the car with the pedal, if it does not stop, use the e-brake and check the brake system for bubbles by bleeding the car again.
20. Brake in your new brakes pads by standard brake pad brake in procedure. I reccomend finding an empty straightaway. Get the car upto 50mph and hit the brakes lightly, slowing the car to 10mph, but not to a complete stop. Do this about ten times, not giving your brakes time to cool in between. Your brakes will be pretty warm afterwards, so find a place to stop the car and let the brakes cool to under 100 degrees if possible.
21. Enjoy having stronger than Type-R brakes without having to source and install new steering knuckles! Enjoy having the ability to stop your car at high speeds without fading all the time!
The end result will look like this:
"This is the biggest OEM brake upgrade that will fit under a 15in rim. The difference is literally day and night. The kit came with everything i needed to simply bolt right on, and everything went on smoothly.
I highly recomend this kit for anyone thats looking for an OEM brake upgrade."- B18C-R(EG)
by BrakeExpert on Honda-Tech
Feel free to ask any questions or IM BrakeExpert on Honda-Tech if you need parts/machining for this setup
sorry for being English, but im confused on...
. what are knuckles?
. what are rotors?
. what parts your using from which Honda?
rotors = discs
For anyone looking for BrakeExpert (that's me) obviously I'm not on honda-tech because I got banned with the rest of the mob when they did their big software change. If you need replacement rotors, I now have the centering screw holes CNC drilled and beveled so you use the centering screws (so the rings arent essential anymore.) I don't make the rings anymore except for one unusual setup.
Does this apply to a rotor upgrades where the rotor center hole is too large ,but has the 2 centering screws(except in that unusual set-up you mentioned)?
Anyone with experience that could chime in?
Am i SOL on going bigger to fit under the 13's?
Maaaybe ill go my 92-93 GSR wheels if i must, but my baby doesn't stop for crap.
Not good for a GSR powered wag.
90-EE's answer:
klum's answer:90-93 Integra 15/16'' MC/booster(non-abs).Check for booster clearance.DC 1" MC/booster,BUT you'll need to rebend one of the hardlines & watch :shock: far booster clearance probs during installation(I think).
Thanks for all the advice. I appreciate it.
I can't find any definitive answer if the V6 Legend 2-pot calipers have a significant increase in stopping power. I will probably go with the Accord wagon/CR-V/Oddsey calipers. According to oreilyauto.com they are pretty common
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... &ppt=C0066
As far as going with the VW Corrado '90 rotors, I was mistaken they are 11''. I just figured it would be easier/cheaper than getting Prelude VTEC ones redrilled.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... &ppt=C0009
My follow up question if anyone would mind chiming in is there any drawbacks to using DA knuckles for this? Everyone always talks about using them for brake upgrades. I am not asking if they bolt up, just are the knuckles identical to the EX ones?
DA & EX knuckle are NOT the same.
DA knuckle drawbacks=about 7 pounds(3 kilos) heavier(big brg) & more negative camber.
Yeah I saw they were a bit heavier
I have also seen that some people use the Civic upper control arm and some people use the DA
Shouldn't I stick the the Civic arm if I go with the DA knuckles?
Thanks!
For sure man, if I knew of any EX knuckles it would be a no contest. All EX in local yards are picked clean, or crushed by 1 or two cars piled on top of them.
Plus, you can always use the extra negative camber.
89 lxi accord? 15/16? or what boosters work for that matter
integra 90-93 mc/booster direct? or will i have issues ?
These are the rotors (I believe Haydz) and I are using with odyssey/prelude calipers
http://nzhondas.com/tech-help/130317-poor-man-s-type-r-brakes-upgrage-your-da-ef-dc-eg-straight-bolt-no-grinding-no-re-drilling-no-spacers.html