replacement clutch

wagodizzle

sup girls...
my TO bearing is on the fritz, so i decided i might as well replace the entire clutch if i'm going to replace the TO bearing since the tranny will be off anyway...

so my question is, whats a good replacement clutch brand? i was checking out Advance Auto and Autozone and whatever, and they have ones for $120. the brand name is Fenco.

also there is Beck Arnley and Perfection for $195... anyways, so whats a good replacement?

or should i go Performance? i want the clutch to feel OEM though. anyways.. thanks in advance

8)

rallyrat427

lot of the honda guys around here use action clutches ... they are pretty good

bam-bam

The one from Advance will be fine, especially for normal power and use. That's what I'm using. Just be sure to have the flywheel surfaced.

wagodizzle

bam-bam wrote:

The one from Advance will be fine, especially for normal power and use. That's what I'm using. Just be sure to have the flywheel surfaced.

thanks. where can i have the flywheel surfaced? and what happens if i dont have it done

evol911

Most brake places and trannsmission places can do it. If you don't have it done its similar to not turning rotors. Grooves in the flywheel transfer to the clutch plate causing faster wear, especially since the clutch is used quite a bit more than the brakes.

Jaker

wagodizzle wrote:

sup girls...
my TO bearing is on the fritz

What symptoms are leading you to this conclusion? Is it possible that the behaviour you are experiencing is the input shaft bearing on it's way out?

bam-bam

wagodizzle wrote:

bam-bam wrote:

The one from Advance will be fine, especially for normal power and use. That's what I'm using. Just be sure to have the flywheel surfaced.

thanks. where can i have the flywheel surfaced? and what happens if i dont have it done

It'll usually manifest as clutch "shudder" (judder if you're a limey), for much the same reason brake rotors will pulse, just at a higher frequency. I didn't have mine done, got lazy/in a hurry, and it SUCKS.

What I have done is picked up a core flywheel from the junkyard, had it turned, so now it's ready for next time. (That way you're not down an extra day or two trying to get it done, especially on a weekend)

wagodizzle

Jaker wrote:

wagodizzle wrote:

sup girls...
my TO bearing is on the fritz

What symptoms are leading you to this conclusion? Is it possible that the behaviour you are experiencing is the input shaft bearing on it's way out?

yeah.. probably....maybe...not sure haha. what it is is that with my clutch disengaged and the car running in neutral you can here the tranny spinning. when i engage the clutch it stops.

Jaker

With the clutch out, and in neutral with the engine running, the throw out bearing is not touching the pressure plate spring fingers, so there's no movement there. However, the input shaft to the transmission is spinning. I'm going with the ISB. It's $30 worth of parts, tops. It's a little intimidating to change for a virgin though.

wagodizzle

alrighty, i did some reading and research.... its definitely the ISB... damn it. haha well at least i get to save $100...

thanks for knocking my head straight, Jaker.

wagodizzle

can you tell me which part number it is? i was thinking its 15..or 16??




1 CASE, CLUTCH
2 PLATE C, OIL GUIDE
3 MAGNET, TRANSMISSION
4 GEAR, DRIVE PINION
5 GEAR, FINAL DRIVEN
6 CASE, DIFFERENTIAL
7 GEAR, SPEEDOMETER DRIVE
8 ROLLER (4X28)
9 SHAFT, PINION
10 GEAR, DIFFERENTIAL PINION
11 WASHER A, DIFFERENTIAL PINION (0.7MM)
12 SHIM A (72MM) (1.0)
13 BOLT, FLANGE (10MM
14 WASHER, THRUST (34X48X1.5)
15 BEARING, BALL (26X52X15)
15 BEARING, BALL (6205UC/26) (NTN CORP.)
16 BEARING, SEALED BALL (6207) (NTN)
17 BEARING, NEEDLE (30X47X21) (NTN CORP.)
18 OIL SEAL (35X56X8) (ARAI)
19 DUST SEAL (16X21X4) (NOK)
20 OIL SEAL (14X25X15) (NOK)
21 OIL SEAL (26X42X7) (NOK)
22 PIN, DOWEL (14X20)

Haydz

STOCK HONDA!

wagodizzle

i returned the clutch, and am going to put off this BS until winter break. school starts Monday and i need my car lolz. i just hope it holds out for the next 10 weeks... it has since i bought it over a year and half ago :P

anyways... Haydz, im definitely getting a stock honda ISB 8)

shenrie

No need for performance stuff unless you have a performance motor, or got something int he works.

For clutch replacement on the cheap I go to Carquest and just order what I need. They sell Exedy clutch plates for cheap, and Ive had really good luck with them in non performance (low hp) applications. They also sell the rest of the parts individually, TO, alignment tool, pilot bearing, etc...

Jaker

wagodizzle wrote:

i returned the clutch, and am going to put off this BS until winter break. school starts Monday and i need my car lolz. i just hope it holds out for the next 10 weeks... it has since i bought it over a year and half ago :P

anyways... Haydz, im definitely getting a stock honda ISB 8)

Make sure the oil level in the transmission is at the correct height. This is the reason 99% of the time that the ISB goes out. You need 15 (the bearing) and 16 (the shaft seal). Don't change the bearing without changing the seal. If you do, you can bet that once you have it back together, and nice and quiet for a couple months, that the seal will start leaking oil all over your clutch.

wagodizzle

i guess its too late to just change the tranny fluid now

thanks for the insight though Jaker.. really really appreciated!!