ECU/Tuning options

This may have been discussed before but I couldn't find anything on it: I am going to build a D16A6 all-motor for my RT4wd wagon. Should I run an obd1 distributor and ecu(I don't want vtec) for better tuning compatibility? Or should I just find something/someone to tune the stock ecu(PM6)? Something like Zdyne for my stcok ecu.http://www.zdyne.com

If anyone knows of some good setups that don't cost more than the engine build, let me know.

Comments

  • Get it chipped and run turboedit or something like that. I'm planning on using that on my all-motor A6 that I'll be starting on shortly. I really don't think the extras of obd1 are needed or will help the reliability/longevity of the motor.
  • hondata s300 will solve all your problems
  • HxCforever wrote:
    hondata s300 will solve all your problems

    Also unnecessary and more $$. Can anyone prove that these can make any more power? Especially on a all motor D. Unless you need the features or know someone with hondata laying around that you can get for cheap then obd0 chipping will work excellent.
  • evol911evol911 familEE
    I want to be able to do real-time datalogging and be able to take it to a dyno and have someone who really knows what they are doing tune. Has anyone tried the Zdyne Gold SECU or Hondata firsthand? I can build a motor but the ecu/tuning/fuel map stuff escapes me.
  • Maybe it'd be best to call your tuner and ask what he'd recommend. I'm sure he'd have more experience with this stuff than any of us and would be able to tell you what he prefers and why.
  • evol911evol911 familEE
    Good idea but I don't have a tuner :( Anybody know of good shops around Portland, Oregon?
  • shenrieshenrie Council Member
    I converted to OBD1 with the b-wagon and am very happy with how you can tune it. I basically told my guy that I had a GSR with Jun stage 3 (same as Skunk stage 2 cams) cams and random boltons. I told him I wanted O2 and knock sensors deleted and where I wanted my rev limiter at. When I got the ecu back and put the car on the dyno, I had to remove fuel from a few places across the rpm range where is was a little fat with a AFC and I was good to go. I was really happy with the lack of having to dial it in. He was real close from the word go. Pretty sure he uses Chrome, but not positive.

    On the D-series though, I dunno what OBD1 dist you can use that will bolt directly to the head without modding it. I wsh Honda would use the same dist on all thier cars and there would be so much less confusion when doing swaps. I did however find out that the OBD2 SOHC VTEC heads use the same pattern dist as the A6. So when we swapped out the motor in my girls sedan with a OBD2 motor, her dist (from the EX) bolted right up.
  • evol911evol911 familEE
    What I'm trying to find out is if I can use an obd0 ecu and still be able to run a usb or such to a laptop for data logging. I have a spare ecu that I could expirement with but can you just drop in chips with a socket or is it permanently soldered in?
  • It uses different chips in a zif socket. Datalogging is possible but I don't know if real-time programming is possible with obd0 yet.

    Here is some basic turboedit info:http://www.xenocron.com/te.php?page=starting
  • evol911evol911 familEE
    thanks eld just added that link to the favorites and will read over it when asap
  • davensdavens familEE
    I had a zdyne gold secu on a naturally aspirated mini-me.
    It was extremely easy to install and use. But at that time, it was extremely expensive. And it didn't have any datalogging. I sold it when I switched to a B-series.

    Last time I checked, the price had come down significantly to try and stay competitive with the Hondata s300(which I'm currently running in my CRX).

    If you're thinking the Hondata is the way to go...don't to forget to add $200 for the obd-1 conversion. Aside from this inconvenience, it is a better product than Zdyne.

    I know, better than most, the urge to go budget...but when you really look at the expense of something like Turbo-edit...its never as cheap as people make it out to be. Especially if you're novice and starting from scratch. The learning curve is a bitch.

    But given your plans, the Zdyne is a good choice. It is the most plug and play option of the bunch. And at the end of a project, when it comes time to plug it in and start it up, its comforting to know the ecu isn't going to cause a lot of headaches. Since there are no datalogging features, you'll need to get a decent air-to-fuel ratio meter to help street tune it.
  • evol911evol911 familEE
    Yeah I saw that the Zdyne came down to about $600 which isn't bad cause I know I can re-sell it if need be for close to the same price. I just don't want to have to burn chips, see if they work fine on the dyno then remove and reburn for new fuel maps and so on.
  • evol911 wrote:
    thanks eld just added that link to the favorites and will read over it when asap

    No problem. :D Also check out pgmfi.org if you really want to learn but be prepared for things way over your head...
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