Amp kit help please!

michaelhinkle1

Just bought an Amp kit.

This one to be exact: http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product. ... id=4694327

It has a thing that goes on the battery post. How do I wire it? Do I cut my current wire going onto the post and wire it into the Connecter that came with the kit? I've read the directions but it just is not detailed enough. If anyone has used this kit help me out! the capaciter is kind of confusing as well. Pics of the thing that goes on my battery terminal are below so you get a better idea of what I'm talking about.

Thanks in advance! V V V Pics of everything.

wagodizzle

michaelhinkle1 wrote:

Do I cut my current wire going onto the post and wire it into the Connecter that came with the kit?

i believe so. if i see the pics correctly it looks like there are 2 holes to put wires into on that terminal.

michaelhinkle1

wagodizzle wrote:

michaelhinkle1 wrote:

Do I cut my current wire going onto the post and wire it into the Connecter that came with the kit?

i believe so. if i see the pics correctly it looks like there are 2 holes to put wires into on that terminal.

3 holes martin, the really small one (power), then the big one (idk what it does but it goes to my amp) then im guessing the battery cable?

joesvoodoodrink

You are on the right track. You have to cut the positive end off your battery cable and insert it into one of the two large openings in the new terminal. The new large amp wire goes into the other large one. The extra small hole is there because some cars may have more than one wire connected to the positive terminal in your case if there is just the main cable you won't use it. The other small power line that goes to the amp is there to turn it on. You will run this to your headunit which should have an amp turn on wire on or you can use a power antenna out. This basically turns the amp on only when the radio is on. If you run both power lines the big and the small to the amp from the battery then your amp is on all the time and you will also get a hella thump when you turn the radio on (not good). Make sure you run the inline fuse block very close to the battery in the amp wire. Cut the amp wire all the way through and attach the fuse block so it it inline no more than 6 inches away from the battery. The shorter the distance the better so that if you do have a problem you don't have this hot wire coming off your battery terminal.

DISCONNECT POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINALS BEFORE STARTING AND LEAVE THE NEGATIVE OFF UNTIL YOU FINISH ALL YOUR WIRING.
This will help prevent you from shorting out the car electronics if you hook somehting up incorrectly.

michaelhinkle1

thank you man, that helps a lot. what about the capicater though? how do i go about charging it? it doesn't make sense to me.

michaelhinkle1

oh and where can i buy the circuled part.

michaelhinkle1

andd again, the two blue wires my speaker wires, how do i hook those into my amp? do i connect them into the right or the left speaker part of the amp?

there is only two speaker wires coming from the box so i'm guessing they go to both subs so both subs are running via two wires to the amp.

thanks for all the help boys!

michaelhinkle1

better pic of the connector i need

joesvoodoodrink

Hmm this is a pretty in depth install for your first one but let's see if we can get you through it. If there are really only 2 speaker wires coming out of the sub box then they are running the speakers together, since subs work mono this is allowed. How many channels is the amp and are you going to use the amp only for the sub's? If so you will have to bridge the amp for a mono output which can be done in a couple different way's depending on the amp itself. Some involve hooking up the two speaker wires to certain outputs on the amp or you may have to switch it over internally. Your best bet is to look up the amp and try and find some information from the manufacturer on this aspect (google). If you are only running as a sub you will want to set a crossover for the amp to sub frequency which may again be part of the amp itself.

The missing connector from the head unit is going to be specific to the manufacturer of the radio. I would do a search using the model number on ebay to see if you can come across a used one.

Here is a link to Crutchfields amp installation page, they are pretty good and you also might look there for your missing connector depending on how old the stereo is. There is also some good info on hooking up the capacitor.

http://www.crutchfield.com/learningcent ... guide.html

michaelhinkle1

http://www.millionbuy.com/ligb42502.html

is the amp i have

"Number of Channels : 2
Rated Power
85 Watts x 2 @ 4-Ohms
125 Watts x 2 @ 2-Ohms
250 Watts x 1 @ 4-Ohms (Bridged)
Total Power : 250 Watts
Maximum Power : 750 Watts
Bridgeable : Yes
Crossover Controls
High-Pass/Low-Pass/All-Pass
Variable from 50Hz - 500Hz"

michaelhinkle1

i hooked it up without the cap.

would the cap make it sound better? it sounds pretty good as it is imo.

the green on light is on, the protect light is off, thats good, right?

thanks to everyone that helped.

joesvoodoodrink

Yay! It always good to end up successful. The cap basically acts like a battery reservoir for the amp and can make some difference depending on the type of music and level you are listening. The harder you work the speakers (deep bass, hip hop, R&B) the more you'll notice the difference with the cap. Also stock the alternators are not designed for high output, I used to get the headlight drop in my CRX especially at idle until I upgraded my alt and battery, you should be fine right now but keep an eye on it. Did you bridge the amp and run the speakers in mono with the two out speaker wires. This will give you the most output for the amp if it is being used only for the subs. You can also play with the crossover either use the low pass or the variable at the lower end till you get the best fill. The protect light being off is good, even better is that it has one which hopefully will shut the amp down as opposed to frying it if something does go wrong.

michaelhinkle1

remember, i have no idea what i'm doing.

underneath where im supposed to put all my speaker wires it says "bridged" and a (+) sign on the far left and on the far right a (-) sign. thats where i put my wires. i have it set on low pass and it hits smooth it still has a few boggy sounds here and there when it hits though. i have a really good battery it was around 80$

what do you mean mono? and how do i bridge the amp? or did i already do that?

and yeah, the subs are the only thing on it.

and as in deep bass etc, the more i'll notice the difference. did you mean it'd sound smoother? or hit harder? or what? details, please.

and thanks again man.