87 RT4wd car not vacuum issue

carb or vacuum issue* Just picked up an 87 RT4wd, that runs and idles okay until it warms up, then it surges ant idle until it finally dies. I made it 1 mile from the original pick up location before it just wouldn't start anymore. Got pulled to a family members house, pulled the carb apart a little and did some serious cleaning, green patina in the old fuel from the float bowl. The 3 jets acsedrd through the drivers side of the float bowl I couldn't remove so just plasted with carb cleaner. It had been sitting 2 years, I put 2-3 gallons of newer cas and sons Lucas. All in all it's running better smoother but the problem is still thrre
What I know is the gasket for the top of the carb is torn in one place, there's one small diameter T vacuum fitting that's broke and off another T closest to the firewall one of the hoses is plugged with a screw.
The fuel cutoff thing does actuate when I turn the ignition so I think it's fine

Update 2/9 replacing the broken T made it like 90% better I think the remaining 10% is two minor vacuum leaks.
I'm shocked how much one open hose messed the car
I will be doing a longer test drive tomorrow, hopefully replacing the 2 split vacuum lines and we will see if I can make it the 60some miles to my mother's house if all that goes well


  • Common problem is also a leaking carb base gasket. Vacuum leaks on those older wagons can cause a load of issues.
  • Well I made the 60 mile highway drive without issues, I didn't get on the go pedal though, which was what caused me to damn near die in the middle of town before I got to autozone.
    I am waiting on license plates before I do more testing but it seems to be pretty good, got some basic tune up parts ordered. I had to buy a spare fuel pump when I saw rock auto only wanted $12.91 for a beck/arnley

    Interesting side note, You can squeeze a "primary" fuel filter, one of the clear plastic ones under the hood where the "secondary" metal fuel filter should be. and you can watch your fuel flow.
  • Well it was doing pretty good, I still haven't got plates but I let warm up then stomped on the throttle in gear with no issues.
    I was replacing the ignition coil wire, Took the old one off and have no spark with either the new or old wire. I think it has something to do with the rats nest pf wires I pushed out of the way, specifically a white 4 wire connector that looked horrid(corroded and not at all solid)

    Edit did some research, and spent some time with the car. So if I read correctly all that matters is the 2 blue and black/yellow wires going from the dizzy-coil-main harness. The 4 pin that's all nasty looking that I mention I think is just some A/C garbage... There's one 3m style ring terminal grounded at the top of the A/C garbage box thingy that has no wire but again I am pretty sure that's some non essential garbage
    When I crank the tach just bounces occasionally so I am quite sure it's a weak connection between the dizzy and coil.

    2/20 New coil, cap, rotor, wires, NGK plus.

    Edit 2/26: problem persists. Runs really smooth until it starts having problems, I guess I will proceed by doing a devac. wish me luck

    3/27 cleaned and rebuilt carb, siliconed both sides of the carb insulator. capped off the brake booster port too, problem is still there but it's more drivable... Going to try hose clamps on all the large caps.
    The problem is definilty related to low RPMs and load,Once I get going on the road no issues but navigating parking lots with a warm motor proved to be a problem today
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