DOHC ZC Swap and some bolt thread questions
jb2wheels
Wagonist
I've been driving my 250000 mile DPFI wagon for a while and it is really SLOW with the AC so I bit the bullet Tuesday.
While in Dallas for Hot Rod Power Tour, I picked up an OBD0 DOHC ZC:
Strapped it to the back seat to keep it from punching out my back window.
Another reason I jumped into this is my clutch started slipping and feeling weird/spongy about a week ago.
I figure, for the amount of work to change the clutch, I'm only a few bolts away from an engine swap.
That's how I rationalize it anyway.
I know I need to make some wiring changes for the MPFI swap and the divorced cam sensor.
Looking forward to the 50% HP boost...
I still need an ECU and throttle cable before I try the swap so I'll be in the junkyards this weekend.
I do have a few questions not specifically DOHC ZC swap related:
I know I have a stripped transmission mount bolt on the rear mount (bolts the mount to the tranny) I didn't bother fixing last time it was out.
I'd like to helicoil or threadsert it when I have it out this time.
What size are the threads? M12x1.25 or something else?
I'd like to put the engine on a stand to change the timing belt and water pump (and maybe crank and cam seals) before it's in the car.
Any suggestions for bolts to bolt it to the stand?
These are M12 x 1.25, right? What length for the stand?
Thanks!
While in Dallas for Hot Rod Power Tour, I picked up an OBD0 DOHC ZC:
Strapped it to the back seat to keep it from punching out my back window.
Another reason I jumped into this is my clutch started slipping and feeling weird/spongy about a week ago.
I figure, for the amount of work to change the clutch, I'm only a few bolts away from an engine swap.
That's how I rationalize it anyway.
I know I need to make some wiring changes for the MPFI swap and the divorced cam sensor.
Looking forward to the 50% HP boost...
I still need an ECU and throttle cable before I try the swap so I'll be in the junkyards this weekend.
I do have a few questions not specifically DOHC ZC swap related:
I know I have a stripped transmission mount bolt on the rear mount (bolts the mount to the tranny) I didn't bother fixing last time it was out.
I'd like to helicoil or threadsert it when I have it out this time.
What size are the threads? M12x1.25 or something else?
I'd like to put the engine on a stand to change the timing belt and water pump (and maybe crank and cam seals) before it's in the car.
Any suggestions for bolts to bolt it to the stand?
These are M12 x 1.25, right? What length for the stand?
Thanks!
Comments
I may even have a threadsert kit in that size. I'm out of town for the moment but could check when I get back. I'd definitely like to swing by while you're doing some of this.
A very straight, complete and amazingly unmolested 88 CRX HF donated a throttle cable to to the cause. I wish I could have taken the whole car.
A 90 CRX Si donated a PM6 with plugs & pigtails and throttle body since my ZC's TPS is mashed...
The TPS on the ZC is attached with Torx head bolts but the Si TPS is mounted with (I assume EPA mandated) tamper-proof screws. It was easier to grab the whole throttle body.
These were the only EFs in sight. I haven't seen a virgin HF in years (in the junkyard or on the street).
Guess I better order some parts (TB, WP, etc) and get ready.
We finished the swap after 2.5 days in the TX heat.
It runs great now but did not start out that way.
On first start it would barely run - felt like one cylinder.
After an hour or so of cleaning up the garage, I tried it again and it felt a lot better but not quite right - like 3 cylinders.
Put it away for the day and went to work (Tuesday - today). Dad pinged me during the day letting me know he started it and ran it for a while at it started to idle on its own and run on 4 so he drove it.
When I got home, it was running pretty good so I cleaned the EACV and set the idle and drove the piss out of it.
I figure the injectors were clogged and even just having fuel pass through them cleaned them enough to run.
It's so nice to keep up with traffic with the AC on. Nice to have it pull from 3K and not lay down like the DPFI.
What's really impressive is the throttle response and power down low. I thought it would feel like the DPFI at low RPM but it's really great at low RPM too.
I really like this swap!
Glad you came by on Sunday - great to meet you and hang out for a while - love the MG!
I'm sure it added to the complexity of the install, having to be careful of those lines =D
The short answer is no.
Yes - was good to have extra hands to juggle engine around lines while operating the hoist.
My DOHC ZC came with Matsushita Compressor and brackets.
My D15B2/car had working AC with Sanden compressor.
The brackets are different but swap between the engines.
I left the compressor in the car when I pulled the engine and left the AC system undisturbed.
I left my exhaust and intake manifolds on both engines.
Also pulled and dropped the engines with the transmission connected.
So had to wrestle engine/transmission around the lines by the exhaust manifold and transmission.
The Sanden bracket from the D15 bolts on the ZC - no issue.
Belt lines up perfectly with ZC crank pulley.
You want cold AC in your civic, get the Sanden stuff going on.
I do wish I'd been around to see what engine bay gymnastics were involved here. I wager there might have been a few moments of wincing.
I really need to go for a ride in this thing though, and pronto!
The ZC was on eBay and did not sell so I called them directly.
The DOHC ZC was not as readily available as I imagine it was 15 years ago when all the trendy people drove and modded EFs.