Powder Coating quotes

BillBoard

Question?

Has anyone had their wheels powder coated?

What was the price range?

I was just quoted 100-120 a wheel depending on color??

So 480 to get wheels pc'd???

Does that seem a lot high? or no...?

91 RT4WD

My RT4WD wheels were $150 for a quality powder coat.

turbo_teg

My buddy got his nasty ass wheels done for $200 on "BLACK FRIDAY" get it?

greenteagod

Yeah that's a pretty decent price. It's about $150 a pop here near Austin as well.

If there's anything that needs to be multiple colors and you can prep it by doing the masking yourself I'd check into that. Depending on the size of the shop you can save yourself some money if you're willing to do a bit of the prep work for them.

arries289

I have been quoted $100 per wheel previously with media blasting and painting of center caps on my RT.

BillBoard

yeah the wheels need to be media blasted for sure. They are in pretty rough shape...

here is another question for you guys- SO on Mugen CF48 there are screw holes on the outside to mount the Aero disk. Well the disks are missing (obviously) and the screws are broken off in side the screw holes... I mean is there any way to get those out of there????

greenteagod

I'd try to center drill them and see if you can get an easy out in there. That sometimes works. Those are aluminum right? I'd also hit it with some heat from a torch around the broken off screw, not directly on the screw. You might be able to get the aluminum to expand enough to help them work out a bit easier. Though the whole wheel might act as a heat sink. Though that said, some time in the oven could help with that, just bring the whole thing up to temp.

If you're willing to sacrifice the factory threads and re-tap. I'd just center punch them very accurately and go up incremental drill sizes until you just barely get to the threads. That should let you blow the rest of the screw bits out. You might have to chew in to the threads a touch, which is why I say sacrifice and re-tap. That way you have fresh clean threads that you can put some nice stainless or whatever screws in you like until you get some caps if you're doing that.

Charb

^^good info

In Spokane you'll pay about $100 per wheel, plus $100 to have the set blasted. Just don't make the mistake of fixing your wheels with anything other than real metal.Using any sort of filler will fuck up the finish. I've specifically seen people use All Metal (metal bondo essentially) to fill holes, then had it powder coated. Total shit show.

BillBoard

greenteagod wrote: »

I'd try to center drill them and see if you can get an easy out in there. That sometimes works. Those are aluminum right? I'd also hit it with some heat from a torch around the broken off screw, not directly on the screw. You might be able to get the aluminum to expand enough to help them work out a bit easier. Though the whole wheel might act as a heat sink. Though that said, some time in the oven could help with that, just bring the whole thing up to temp.

If you're willing to sacrifice the factory threads and re-tap. I'd just center punch them very accurately and go up incremental drill sizes until you just barely get to the threads. That should let you blow the rest of the screw bits out. You might have to chew in to the threads a touch, which is why I say sacrifice and re-tap. That way you have fresh clean threads that you can put some nice stainless or whatever screws in you like until you get some caps if you're doing that.

MMM yes. I see what your saying.

so then I started watching this> but the bolts are so tiny... and not actually sticking out... the bolt holes are like filled... I think my only option is to get a drill bit a size up, drill it out and re-thread it...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSOg7aQ44eg

greenteagod

Take some pictures post it up here and I'll see if it changes my opinion.

I myself though have drill bits in increments of tenths of a millimeter. So yeah they are tiny but if you have a precision set of bits, that can be exactly what you're needing to work with here. When working with the tiny bits, I prefer to work with a Dremel as well so I don't have the whole weight of a big drill threatening to snap the bit.

And you really do want to start with a small bit and get that initial hole as centered as possible. It's very easy to walk a bigger bit and do more damage to the wheel than you'd ever like to see. Once that bit starts walking it's nearly impossible to recover it back to center. I've even had em walk while everything was clamped and was using a drill press and it never centered again. So I just had a nasty lop sided hole that I then had to drill out way larger than I wanted to.

You also have to keep in mind with what I imagine is some form of steel bolt, with it being harder than the aluminum once it walks it'll chew right into that aluminum really fast.

But yeah with that video, basically you take the first step that he was doing and continue to do so. Though if you have access to a welder you honestly could set a nut on top and fill with a mig welder and likely get it out. Though I'd probably just keep stepping up the drill sizes. The more bits you can go through on it the easier it is vs going up large increments at a time.

While not as incremental as I'd like, this could likely get you through in a budget friendly manner.

http://www.harborfreight.com/high-speed-steel-drill-bit-set-13-pc-61723.html

Oh wait, slight edit

http://www.harborfreight.com/high-speed-steel-micro-drill-bit-set-30-pc-61526.html

This is more like it. Much smaller start. 1/16 is like 1.5mm or so. Yeah I'd check that second set out right there if one is available at your local HF. Looks like you have a shitload of them around there in Denver. Do it to it.

ragenasian

Yeah definitely post up some pics. I have used the old nut and weld on numerous occasion and it works great. The heat is enough to usually free it loose and pull out pretty easy.

As for powder bring them to Germany and we will powdercoat them in my shop! Just finished up some matte black Harley wheels!

Ryanthegreat1

I had mine powder coated. Was not cheap for 2 colors to make it look stock but the end result is completely worth it. I think I was ~$600 out the door.

greenteagod

^^ Yeah These right here. I remembered seeing a set that I really liked. Definitely a good look on them. Were I to have an RT4WD I'd probably do something similar to this look. Monochrome style, maybe with the black in the same color as the body.

BillBoard

damn. those look good.

Ryanthegreat1

Thanks! They are holding up really well going on 2 years now. Zero complaints other than white wheels look dirty immediately. They look sharp when clean.

Here is what I started with.