Hydrodipping

BillBoard

Has anyone ever hydrodipped anything on their wagon?

how does it hold up?

Why is it so expensive?

please post pix and share your hydrodipping experience...

El Leon

I have hydrodipped parts for my Evo IX. The guy was just getting into it and was a powdercoater. His work came out horrible, then he was a complete PITA to deal with. End result was that his powdercoating was also questionable and he didn't stand behind his work. The best part was when he admitted that the clear wasn't going on properly and his gun kept gunking up. Rather than pulling his head out of his twat, he just kept going, then sent the product out.

(FYI: I heavily suggest staying away from "Detective Coating" as that is the company referenced above. https://www.facebook.com/detectivecoating2/?fref=ts)

It holds up very well. You can use it on valve covers and such without fear of heat melting the material or discoloration.

It is expensive because you use an entire sheet of product regardless of the size of the piece you are dipping, plus the dunk tanks are specialty and the materials prep is time consuming. In addition, the physical act of dipping is a bit of an art form. Training and experience also cost money to perfect and wasted product.


This was the pattern I was going to use. "Morning Wood"

greenteagod

Can't speak to car parts but I've dipped instruments before. If you're doing a custom pattern with just paints, the cost should be very minimal. The only reason I can imagine for expense is the prep work and care you have to do for an actual set pattern, like what El Leon was going for.

That said, the kits and film on its own isn't that expensive. I'd say probably for $200 or less you could get a kit and some film that you like and just a big ol bucket that's deep enough for the part and DIY the stuff yourself. It's not a terribly complex process. That said throwing color in there is definitely more forgiving than dipping film. Film requires a bit more trial and error to make sure you don't over etch, under etch, get voids or air bubbles.

superhatch

Prep work and quality of the clear coat is key to hydro longevity.

I've had some hard hats done for guys as presents and some of my friends have had their AR-15 stocks done. They held up really well but none are a constant wear item. I'd imagine if you got a shift knob done, or a steering wheel or something you would see some wear like regular paint.

I went here: http://www.watertransferprinting.com/services/find-processor and found someone certified as a processor.

I think the process is expensive because a you're paying for someone who has a professional dip tank, carries a variety of film, does good prep work on the part if it needs it, and does a good job with the clear afterwords.

BillBoard

Hrmmm thanks guys. I was thinking about having some things hydrodipped and I just had no idea that it was such a costly process... May still have some things hydro dipped.

Was the process a long process, Like did you leave the parts their for several days??? weeks?

superhatch

I had about a 1 week turnaround on the helmets but not sure if there are seasonal spikes or not. I got mine done in February last year. I went to a place in Chicago and did a drop off and pick up.

BillBoard

superhatch wrote: »

I had about a 1 week turnaround on the helmets but not sure if there are seasonal spikes or not. I got mine done in February last year. I went to a place in Chicago and did a drop off and pick up.

cool cool. I'm in no rush... I wonder if it would be easier/cheaper just to vinyl wrap rear speaker pods? Or if its possible?

greenteagod

You'd probably need to get some heat gun on it just to make sure there are no wrinkles and it's stretched appropriately but yeah I've vinyl wrapped more complex shapes than the rear speaker pods without too many issues. But yeah the pods could definitely be dipped. Probably as two separate parts. It might be a bit much to get a clean dip on it together without distortion.

Not sure if the 3rd gen pods are the same as 4th gen, but if you're working with vinyl that won't look too bad when distorted, I'd go with that just for simplicity sake. You could even work the pod a bit to get rid of any seam line and wrap it all as one piece.

What pattern were you going for?

BillBoard

greenteagod wrote: »

You'd probably need to get some heat gun on it just to make sure there are no wrinkles and it's stretched appropriately but yeah I've vinyl wrapped more complex shapes than the rear speaker pods without too many issues. But yeah the pods could definitely be dipped. Probably as two separate parts. It might be a bit much to get a clean dip on it together without distortion.

Not sure if the 3rd gen pods are the same as 4th gen, but if you're working with vinyl that won't look too bad when distorted, I'd go with that just for simplicity sake. You could even work the pod a bit to get rid of any seam line and wrap it all as one piece.

What pattern were you going for?

Just wanting to do a wood grain pattern. So really it doesn't have to be perfect.

superhatch

Wood grain paint roller y0!



My wife used this on a desk she refurbed over the summer...it looked pretty amazing. I think you can get them pretty small.

greenteagod

Yep, or a wood graining tool to get something like this. I know some of the guys on here have wood grain stuff, like valve covers and what not. I forget if it's penro that has one or someone else.

But yeah, for wood grain, I'd definitely go with paint. To me it always looks a bit more natural than a printed graphic. Granted the person in the pic below got too much vibration when dragging it, but you get the idea. The roller that superhatch mentioned looks like a great applicator as well and you could get a few different colors in there, similar shade but just enough difference to add a good bit of depth to it.

Whatever you do I look forward to some pics of the process, especially if you DIY.