driving/offroad light mounting

IdahoHonda91

So hopefully this is in the right section, and hopefully I didn't miss anything in my search. I was wondering if anyone has any pictures of different ways people have mounted driving/offroad lights on the front of an rt4wd without an OEM bullbar. I would like to get some lights mounted to help with visibility during drives in the foothills and mountain roads in my area, but can't afford an OEM bullbar. I'd like to almost do a rally style mount, but don't know if it's been done before and how easy it would be. I found a mount online that is supposed to mount to the car using the license plate bolt holes, but don't see how that could support the weight of even a 3-5lb LED light bar. Any ideas, pictures, and any links I missed in my search would be appreciated. Thanks!

Haydz

There is this thread for another attempt, pity the pictures no longer work.

truckslammer

If you do not care about how it looks I am sure you could fab something using the tow hook holes and mount up something that works for you.

IdahoHonda91

I will try to take the bumper off this next weekend and see if there's anywhere to attach a bracket for any lights, I know a guy thats pretty decent at fab work, he might be able to rig something up. I'm wanting to just throw a 20" LED bar up front slightly above the bumper. Also, has anyone ever seen an LED bar mounted on the roof of a wagon? Wonder if there's a way to do that without investing in a roof rack and a basket.

503Wagon

I don't really see any way to mount one on the roof of the wagon without a rack and or drilling into the roof / side pillars themselves.

I've seen several people just straight mount them onto the top of the bumper. You could probably figure something out to come through the front grill off the tow hooks / bumper support and mount right in front of the bumper as well.

Toats

I just mounted my 40 inch light bar right onto my roof rack.

greenteagod

Sweet! That is exactly what I want to do. Is that a straight bar? I'm looking at getting a curved one and shaping the front of a basket to fit. 40" seems a good width. How much room do you have on the sides. Just considering if a wider bar could be used.

Toats

I'd say i have around 6 inches on each side, i think a 40 is the perfect size i tried putting a 50 inch up there and it just looked way too big.

oh and yes its a straight bar with the spot flood combo

Ryanthegreat1

Is that the Rigid Industries bar? How do you like the combo pattern and light output?

I just installed a set of their D2 driving beams. I will have to put up some pictures. I mounted mine to the crash bar inside the bumper and cut out the top corner of the grill on either side. Nice solid mounting and tucked under the bumper.

Toats

it's not a rigid bar, it's just a Chinese one. I've had it next to a real 40inch rigid and you can't even tell the difference in the light output. only thing is with it so far back behind the window, the light glares really bad on the windshield so what I've herd people do is stick it over top of the windshield and the glare goes away.

Ryanthegreat1

Changed the oil today, thought I would snap a picture of the Rigid D2 install.





I should probably take the lens covers off and flip them over so the lettering is the correct way round.

greenteagod

Beam pattern pic please.

Ryanthegreat1

I will see what I can do about that when the sun goes down.

Ryanthegreat1

Okay I tried my best to keep the brightness consistent between shots. I locked the shutter speed to 1/500sec and ISO to 6400. Turned off auto image brightness. Forgot to lock up F-stop but the distance shots all seemed to hold 3.5. The up close shots were 11-16. Distance is from the front license plate to the wall measured with a laser +/- 1" was not getting fussy with it. Distance shots are sitting in the drivers seat with an 18mm lens shooting through the windshield with some rain on it. You can just see the dash lights and they are on full brightness with brand new bulbs so that shows how dark these pictures are. Distance shots are also on wet black top to a wet concrete foundation.

These are the Rigid D2 driving pattern.

3ft - Rigid D2


3ft - 55watt HID 4300k low beam


3ft - 55watt HID 4300k low beam + Rigid D2 (this one was an F-stop of 16, very bright!)


18ft - Rigid D2


18ft - 55watt HID 4300k low beam


18ft - 55watt HID 4300k low beam + Rigid D2


18ft - 55watt HID 4300k low beam + Halogen high beam


18ft - 55watt HID 4300k low beam + Halogen high beam + Rigid D2


30ft - Rigid D2


30ft - 55watt HID 4300k low beam


30ft - 55watt HID 4300k low beam + Rigid D2


30ft - 55watt HID 4300k low beam + Halogen high beam + Rigid D2

greenteagod

Very nice! Glad to see you rocking a warmer set of HID as well. I hate seeing 7+k on the road. Makes no sense. Those rigid lights definitely illuminate more of the "critters running in front of me" zone so I dig that. Good work and great beam pics.

NobiZero

How did you route the wiring for your light bar? I've been thinking of mounting one myself. The only place I saw to route it is either tuck it in to the windshield molding and run it down the windshield, or run it inside the door through the driver's or passenger's door weatherstrip.

Ryanthegreat1

Thanks! I was not a fan of putting blue lights on something so old. The 4300k is more period correct and less ricer. Plus way more usable light and no one flashes me for having a crappy annoying HID retrofit.

The Rigids really looked intense when I had halogen low beams. The Rigid would totally over power out the lows, it was like the lows were not even on. But 55k HIDs putting out ~5000 lumen each makes the Rigid 3000 lumen each look weak.

greenteagod

Ryanthegreat1 wrote: »

way more usable light

Truer words my friend. Bless you! Yeah I could see 5000 lumen coming out of the HIDs overpowering most other things. But they do still help fill in more of the dark spots, which is what I'd be most concerned with myself.

On a side note, holy moly them things ain't cheap are they! Did you pay full retail on em?