bogging again and with a new clicking noise

949

well my bogging issue came back.

i am begining to think its something to do with the ignition coil pack because some other people posting up similiar problems in the hondatech forum said it was their coil pack. if i change out the ignition coil (someone posted its also called the distributor cap) what else should i do since im there?
i also thought that the map sensor could be the trouble maker here as well but ill just do the distributor cap for now and see how it goes.

all the problems people have replaced to fix the bogging but not all of these replacements were done by one idividual but done by different people on different cars to resolve the bogging issue they had.

what they did:
checked gas tank, found rust. replaced gas tank.
replaced fuel pump.
replaced igition coil.
replaced map sensor.
found ground wire not fully ground due to rust. )cant remember where it came from /what wire the ground was from.




as for the clicking noise i have no clue to what that could be. it seems to be comming from in the engine but i have yet to go under the car.


does anyone know if all this seems correct before i go in and spend a day doing this?

Kahuna

If it's like a knock, could be a toasted CV, which could cause binding, and possibly bogging.

Of course EFs always have dizzy problems.

SiWagon

Ever do the FREE iginitor Upgrade :?:

949

Kahuna wrote:

If it's like a knock, could be a toasted CV, which could cause binding, and possibly bogging.

Of course EFs always have dizzy problems.

i have read people have dizzy problems but i have no idea what a dizzy is.
also what is a CV?

do you have pics and schematics?

949

SiWagon wrote:

Ever do the FREE iginitor Upgrade :?:

i have read about the free fix.

i bought it used and have no idea if its been done yet. any way to check?

jpciii

dizzy = distributor

CV = axle assembly... actually, just the constant velocity joints but when they wear out, it's easier/cheaper to just replace the whole axle assembly. When they start to go, they make a clicking sound especially when turning.


Can you describe this "bogging" in more detail? Also, when was the last time the car had a good tune up?

farfetched

Yea - does you Wag has a punch mark above H letter in VIN number (firewall)?
I would start with fuel delivery and ingnition/spark strenght.
Cheers!

949

well as for the bogging here is the experience.

the bogging happends when im in low rpm.
about 1.5k rpm - 3k rpm. with slow acceleration it seems to act like there isnt enough fuel going to it or air. there is acceleration once i press harder on the gas pedal. it doesnt seem to bogg so much when i floor it. it does go when i do floor it. i just dont like to do that very much when i just drive. it doesnt stall yet but it does feel like it will eventually as the problem seems to be more frequent. i feel that what ever the part that is faulty it is beginning to get worse. another thing that happen that i notice was when i get in to turning right i would slow down and i notice the accelerator would not respond very much as i press on the gas pedal while comming out of the turn. it seems to bogg even more. it will then even out when i just wait a few seconds. the fuel tank is full of gas and i am not hitting the corner fast. just a regular driving experience. because of this issue i have not been driving very aggresively. i may even be driving like a grandma.

as something new that is happening that didnt happen before is that at idle it is idling rougher then before. the motor seems to shake much more then before. along with a clicking noise at idle. i can hear it very clearly when i am warming it up in the morning.

this whole bogging issue has only been here for about 3-4 months. so this is new. it happened when the car was completely stock. no after market parts what so ever.

949

farfetched wrote:

Yea - does you Wag has a punch mark above H letter in VIN number (firewall)?
I would start with fuel delivery and ingnition/spark strenght.
Cheers!

not sure about the punch mark above the H. ill check that tomorrow. is that how i know they have done the ignition?

farfetched

Yes

Bulletin No:
93-028

Model
1988-91
CIVIC

Applicable To
ALL

File Under:
ELECTRICAL

Issue Date:
JULY 19, 1993

Product Update:
Civic Igniter

BACKGROUND
The ignition control module (igniter) may fail. If this happens, the engine will not start. This product update is being conducted to help eliminate any possibility of igniter failure.

CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Owner's of affected vehicles will be contacted by mail and asked to take the car to a dealership for repair.

CORRECTIVE ACTION

Replace the igniter with the updated part listed under PARTS INFORMATION.

1. Unplug the distributor 2-P and 6-P or 8-P connectors.

2. Disconnect the spark plug wires from the distributor cap.

3. Remove the three distributor hold-down bolts. Remove the distributor from the car.

4. Remove the distributor cap, leak cover, and rotor.

5. Inspect the igniter.

^ If the igniter is black and embossed with OKI, continue with this replacement procedure.

^ If the igniter is brown and embossed with NEC, it is an updated igniter and does not need replacement. Go to step 11.


6. Disconnect four wires from the igniter terminals. Remove the wire holder screw.

7. Remove the two igniter assembly mounting screws. Discard the screws.

8. Remove the igniter assembly from the distributor. Remove the two screws mounting the igniter to the heat sink. Install the new igniter on the heat sink with the original screws.

9. Connect the BLU wire to the terminal on the side of the igniter. Install the igniter assembly in the distributor with the new screws that came in the kit.








10. Reconnect the remaining wires to the igniter.

NOTE:
If any connector does not fit tightly on an igniter terminal, squeeze the connector and with a pair of pliers to reduce the clearance.

11. Reinstall the wire holder screw. Reinstall the rotor, leak cover, and distributor cap.

12. Install the distributor in the car with a new O-ring. Do not fully tighten the hold-down bolts.








13. Reconnect the 2-P and 6-P or 8-P connectors and the spark plug wires.

14. Adjust the ignition timing according to the procedure in the service manual.








15. Center-punch a completion mark above the second character ("H") of the engine compartment VIN.


PARTS INFORMATION

Igniter Kit:
P/N 06302-PT2-000
H/C 4124814

O-ring:
P/N 30110-PA1-732
H/C 1126457







WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION:

Failed part: P/N 30130 RM5 A01
H/C 2894511
Defect code: 616
Contention code: J71











© 2007 ALLDATA LLC. All rights reserved.
Terms of Use

Pictures will not show up!

jpciii

What you are describing sounds like ignition timing that is off. Either the timing belt skipped a tooth or the distributor is messed up. Inside the distributor is a few different parts that can cause problems... the coil (not the same as the cap), ignitor, or sometimes worn mechanical bits inside the dizzy can go too. The frustrating thing is that you can't really test these parts, and you can't see the mechanical bits. So, you just kinda have to throw parts at it and hope you get it right. This is why many EF junkies keep a few spare distributors around. If it where me, I would buy a whole new dizzy.

This is just my best guess from half way across the country... It could be something completely different. Sounds like you might need help from someone local...

good luck with it.

949

thanks guys. this really helps. i really just needed some direction to head towards. i have no idea what parts to even start replacing or even look at. i also thought i was my fuel regulator. i guess i was far off on that one.

i was thinking of taking a small video clip of what is going on. for a better explaination. if its just the distributor i am good. i am more then happy to replace it. should i go with a certain brand or just oem?

SiWagon

949 wrote:

... along with a clicking noise at idle. i can hear it very clearly when i am warming it up in the morning.

this whole bogging issue has only been here for about 3-4 months. so this is new. it happened when the car was completely stock. no after market parts what so ever.

When were the valves last adjusted :?: I bought a EF that ticked so loud that peeps thought I had a DIESEL.The ticking is probably NOT the Bogging prob.

949 wrote:

not sure about the punch mark above the H... is that how i know they have done the ignition?

Just take the Wgn to the Honda dealer & they'll tell you or for more info :
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=104&hilit=+SiWagon

:idea: If it's not been upgraded it'll save u having to open the dizzy cap.The bogging could b a bad Ignitor cutting in & out.
I've seen EF dizzies with loose parts,broken (like snapped in 2)parts & missing spark shields.

:arrow: Also check the dizzy cap gasket.When bad it lets H2o inwhich can cause no start probs.The gasket 's only a few $$.

949

SiWagon wrote:

949 wrote:

... along with a clicking noise at idle. i can hear it very clearly when i am warming it up in the morning.

this whole bogging issue has only been here for about 3-4 months. so this is new. it happened when the car was completely stock. no after market parts what so ever.

When were the valves last adjusted :?: I bought a EF that ticked so loud that peeps thought I had a DIESEL.The ticking is probably NOT the Bogging prob.

949 wrote:

not sure about the punch mark above the H... is that how i know they have done the ignition?

Just take the Wgn to the Honda dealer & they'll tell you or for more info :
http://www.hondacivicwagon.com/board/vi ... .php?t=104

:idea: If it's not been upgraded it'll save u having to open the dizzy cap.The bogging could b a bad Ignitor cutting in & out.
I've seen EF dizzies with loose parts,broken (like snapped in 2)parts & missing spark shields.

:arrow: Also check the dizzy cap gasket.When bad it lets H2o inwhich can cause no start probs.The gasket 's only a few $$.

if the dizzy is broken in half, will the car will still run?

949

i went to the dealer yesterday for the recall. they said its been fixed. both the belt and igniter. its not the actual dizzy that is supposed to be replaced, per the dealership. i kept thinking it was the dizzy too. my bad.

wagodizzle

are you getting any ecu codes?

949

no cels so far.