NO Brakes!! Plz help

HumbleHippy

Alright so I was @ work (delivering pizzas)... see a stop sign ahead of me and all of a sudden NO Brakes! Thankfully the E-Brake still worked and got me to a safe stop... but my issue lies in the pedal.

Got her home.. took of the wheels.. rotors are pretty bad shape.. but pads are fresh..bled the lines..and fired her back up for a small test drive down the street..still NOTHING. Pedal is rock solid and doesn't want to budge more than maybe 1/2" and get 0 brake pressure in the front. Again E-Brake still does enough.. but when I got back to the garage she started to have a ridiculous irratic idle 600rpm (which was her normal idle before) up to 1500rpm and back down consistantly.

Pretty much don't know what to do from here... any feed back would be AMAZING and if pictures would help just let me know what you need to see and I'll get them here ASAP!

dirtydirty

sounds like the brake booster might have gone out
the idle sounds like the IACV needs cleaned

also if we are dealing with any honda with rear drum brakes the Ebrake is independantly cable driven

HumbleHippy

dirtydirty wrote: »

sounds like the brake booster might have gone out
the idle sounds like the IACV needs cleaned

also if we are dealing with any honda with rear drum brakes the Ebrake is independantly cable driven

Thanks for the quick response

Found this link http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-rods-rat-rods/hot-rod-power-brake-booster-test.asp (might help someone down the road) going to run through all the tests and see where that takes me... as far as idle goes did a little research after my frustrated panic attack lol and cleaned the IACV its currently drying and will post results later tonight..

LowFlyin'

Brakes should work even if the booster is faulty. Just have to push harder than you are used to - I deleted the booster on my '91 Civic LeMons car.

If you are not getting clamping force from the calipers at all, I would look at the front calipers to ensure you are getting pressurized fluid from the master cylinder (bleeding) and that the piston is extending out of the caliper upon pedal engagement.

If you are not getting both of those, I would suspect you have a blockage within the line or two bad front calipers (unlikely).

FakeJDMEF8

id overhaul the WHOLE system.

skimping out on brakes is both careless and dangerous. for you and everyone on the road....

take your time, do it right, and maintain them afterwards:)

SiWagon

You don't need to "overhaul the whole system".You just need to find the bad part.I'd follow LowFlyin's advice.

When you can't stop.Did you try pumping the pedal?

Look at the brake booster to see if there's a trail of brake fluid leaking down from the MC?

FakeJDMEF8

Absolutely find the main problem, but every RT I've gotten has been starved of brake maintainence. It's super cheap and well worth the investment.


Either way, find the culprit!

HumbleHippy

Thanks for all the advice! Decided just to go ahead and get DA Knuckles, 15/16 MC, and NM-260v Brake Booster... figured if I was gonna mess with trying to figure it out mine as well go for the DA upgrade..
Knuckles w/ calipers no rotors or pads $45 for set..
Rotors $60
Pads $45
and got alignment from my brother in law @ his shop...

Love them and everything is working great! Kinda of wish I would have got braided lines tho just so I didnt have to upgrade them later, but was kinga over the budget I wanted to use anyway..

SiWagon

Your welcome .Smart move.

Don't sweat the braided line.The DA upgrade pays back way more than the braided. & like FakeJDMEF8 said ...super cheap and well worth the investment.

HumbleHippy

Yeah I dont feel I NEED the braided lines.. was more for cosmetic appeal.. lol will still happen just later on down the road.

Anyways Thanks again for all the input... MC was bad was the problem btw.