Alternator removal Prob

cogitocogito Wagonist
in Electronics, Fueling & Air Conditioning
Yesterday the battery light on my 89 RT4WD wagon (manual trans, 128K miles) lit up. A garage checked the battery with a meter and its not getting any charge and I had a bad alternator. Is this likely correct, or should I check other things first? The bad news is he said to replace the alternator, he has to pull the left transaxle shaft and get it out through the bottom. And wants $140 labor to do it. I don't mind paying if there's a lot of work involved, but this surprised me. Is he on the level?.

Comments

  • SiWagonSiWagon Council Member
    Wait for a few more answers :!:
    Honda Shop Manual DOES NOT mention removing the axle.I've NEVER removed my axle when I removed the alt,but those were on 2WDs.

    :idea: If you want to save a bundle,when you get the alt. out.Go ahead & take it apart .It's usually bad brushes(only a $1).If you mess up just use it as a exchange.If it works you just saved $150 for a rebuild plus labor(another $140).I've helped friends do this several times.One I help do is still running after 6 years.Ohh don't forget to send me a Franklin($100) for this tip. :lol:
  • KahunaKahuna familEE
    Changing that alt. isn't bad at all. It's only two bolts and a belt.. Removing the axle would probably be the easiest way, but you may be able to do it without it..
  • cogitocogito Wagonist
    Well, I looked at it, and it doesn't look possible to get it out from the top. So the question is, can it be removed from the bottom or not? Has anyone here actually done this on a 4WD car without pulling the axle?
  • cogitocogito Wagonist
    SiWagon, what is involved in replacing the brushes? Is it pretty straightforward or what?
  • SiWagonSiWagon Council Member
    :) It's not that hard just go slow.It was easier than I thought.
    Depending on what Alt u got.1 even has a hole to drop in a pin 2 hold the brushes in place 4 assembly (just remember to remove the pin afterward)& the other needs to be soldered in(make sure u use a resin core solder(corrosion reasons)).
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    The alt can be taken out both from the top and the bottom without pulling anything else out of the way other than the belt and arm holding the alt on, on an RT4WD.
  • cogitocogito Wagonist
    Thanks, Pacifier. I assume taking it out from the top is easier? How long should it take? Is it pretty straightforward, I mean are there any gotchas or tricks to know?
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    Nah just loosen the bolts, slide her back on the rail a bit and take off the belt. Then take the bolts and wires off and pull it up between the strut tower and the intake manifold. I did this on an ALB equipped RT4WD which has far less room then the non ALB model.

    However... thinking about it... mine is/was a JDM right hand drive... i think your master cyl and booster are in the way on USDM models? So it might not work. :lol:
  • cogitocogito Wagonist
    Yeah, that's the problem. The master cylinder is right above the alternator. You had me going there for a while.
  • davensdavens familEE
    I haven't done it on the wagon, but the trick to doing it on the CRX is to jack the car up so the wheel/axle hangs down lower, giving you about six inches of additional clearance.
  • SiWagonSiWagon Council Member
    :) Takes about 2.5-3 hours start-finish. :D

    Since it's ur 1st..double the time.
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    Holy crap thats a mission just to pull the alternator. :shock:
    USDM really looses out on that part, doesn't it?
  • AWD WagonAWD Wagon Wagonist
    I pulled my buddies from the top......I was able to slide it back and brought it up beside the firewall and the air intake chamber. It did take some maneuvering.
  • cogitocogito Wagonist
    davens wrote:
    I haven't done it on the wagon, but the trick to doing it on the CRX is to jack the car up so the wheel/axle hangs down lower, giving you about six inches of additional clearance.
    Are you saying then you don't have to remove the axle? I wonder if that would be easier than fishing it through the top as AWD suggests? AWD, I assume you reinstalled another alternator after pulling the old one out?
  • AWD WagonAWD Wagon Wagonist
    That said I did this on an 2wd.....having a look at my 4wd....the MPFI might cause more difficulty. The air intake chamber sems to be larger on the 1.6 MPFI than that of the PFI 1.5 ltr.
  • turbo_tegturbo_teg Council Member
    I have changed my alternator 2 times in my 4wd LHD wagon and both times i did it without even jacking the car up. remove the brake master set it on its side so u dont let all the fluid leak out of it. tools needed to remove it are.

    10mm pipe wrench
    deep 12mm socket
    short 3/8 extension
    3/8 ratchet

    then u have easy access to the alternator which should be super easy for ya.
  • cogitocogito Wagonist
    That sounds easier than fishing it out the bottom somehow. How long did it take you to do the whole job? Is there any catch with removing the brake hardware?
  • cogitocogito Wagonist
    BTW, how long did those replacements last for you? Were they rebuilt or new? Where did you buy them? I got a quote of $85 from AZ and $140 from NAPA for rebuilts. Big difference.
  • turbo_tegturbo_teg Council Member
    my first was a rebuilt from schucks aka craigen or checkers depending on which part of the country u are from. it went out in just a few months i was pressed for time and couldnt wait for them to replace it when it went out so i got one from napa and its worked great for about 9 months now.
  • turbo_tegturbo_teg Council Member
    cogito wrote:
    That sounds easier than fishing it out the bottom somehow. How long did it take you to do the whole job? Is there any catch with removing the brake hardware?

    maybe 30 minutes..... i lost a lot of break fluid from my master but after it went back in i filled it back up and the breaks worked just fine i didnt have to bleed it at all.
  • cogitocogito Wagonist
    I found that I can one from NAPA for $99. Will get it and see what happens. Too many people badmouthing AZ.
  • heraldhamsterheraldhamster Wagonist
    don't know if you've gotten this done yet or not...

    I did this maybe six or eight months ago on our '88 2WD. left hand drive.

    remove the flexible plastic body skirting behind the driver's side front wheel and I think the lower plastic panel on the left side. turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. jacking the front of the car might not hurt, I don't think I did.
    remove the alternator & belt, remove the mounting bracket that holds the alternator and set it aside. keep all your bolts organized and then gently work the alt. around, flipping it and turning it like working a puzzle piece, until it gently folds out the side hole in the frame. reinstall the same way only in reverse.

    sorry, I'm going by memory here... when I did it I was frustrated for two hours and had an aching back from fighting it until I quit, came inside, had lunch and went back with a fresh attitude. it almost fell out in my hands in fifteen minutes.

    ...jm.
  • cogitocogito Wagonist
    jm, so did you remove it from the side or the bottom? How long did it take you? Thanks.
  • ThatDoodleThatDoodle Council Member
    turbo_teg wrote:
    I have changed my alternator 2 times in my 4wd LHD wagon and both times i did it without even jacking the car up. remove the brake master set it on its side so u dont let all the fluid leak out of it. tools needed to remove it are.

    10mm pipe wrench
    deep 12mm socket
    short 3/8 extension
    3/8 ratchet

    then u have easy access to the alternator which should be super easy for ya.

    Thats exactly how i did mine.
  • turbo_tegturbo_teg Council Member
    i delted all your emails so did u ever get it changed?
  • heraldhamsterheraldhamster Wagonist
    cogito wrote:
    jm, so did you remove it from the side or the bottom? How long did it take you? Thanks.

    from the driver's side. but the lower portion of that side. so, almost the bottom, but not directly out behind the pan.
  • cogitocogito Wagonist
    Sorry I haven't posted sooner. Been busy. I finally got the alternator replaced on Monday this week. Took it to RC Auto Works in Bridgeview, which was recommended to me by Frank, here at the MB.

    Anyway, they did a crackerjack job for a fair price. If anyone in the Chicago area is looking for a garage, these guys are good! I got busy, the weather got cold, my son got too busy to help me when the time came, so I just decided to let someone else do it, and I'm glad I did. I don't have a private garage space anymore so it would have been a hassle anyway. They ended up pulling it out from the bottom, and everything worked out, so I am happy. Thanks to everyone for your replies.

    Tom
  • farfetchedfarfetched Wagonist
    Pacifier wrote:
    Nah just loosen the bolts, slide her back on the rail a bit and take off the belt. Then take the bolts and wires off and pull it up between the strut tower and the intake manifold. I did this on an ALB equipped RT4WD which has far less room then the non ALB model.

    However... thinking about it... mine is/was a JDM right hand drive... i think your master cyl and booster are in the way on USDM models? So it might not work. :lol:
    It is so funny Pacifier!!!
    RHD vs LHD is a huge difference!!!
    What the hell take the intake out and remove alternator...
    If one cannot follow simple R+R instruction, perhaps he/she shouldn
    't even touch it!!!
    It is my take on it!
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