Car run shitty when engine light comes on HELP!

SweetOh

Well i just replaced my coil, ignition module, injectors.

My car starts right up idles fine then about 2-5 sec running anywhere above 1800RPms the engine light comes on and it runs shitty/rough. :x

The ECU showing code 4 and 16 so I’m stumped. Any ideas? :?



Um here what’s been done to the car before the distributor died.
muffler fell off and I knocked the crap out of the cad, Gas tank was rusty so i got it flushed and get a new fuel pump & filter. Tune up and last ran some 44k.

davens

The next step is to figure what those codes mean:

4 - CKP Sensor (Crankshaft Position Sensor) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor


16 - Fuel Injector System defective circuit or unplugged / defective fuel injector

SweetOh

So would a defective sensor cause the engine light to come on, and the motor to run rough?

It run fine under 2000rpms and over 4000rpms. Anything between that 2000-4000 the engine light come as and it go to shit. Runs rough and if i floor it when it run rough it wont pass 3200rpms.

So anythoughs to why it could be runing shitty?

Could a cloged fuel filter cause this this?

I reset the ecu and code 16 is got but 4 is still there.

davens

1. Get a factory service manual
2. Look up PGMFI error codes
3. Follow the steps for troubleshooting each code.

wagodizzle

Mekkor wrote:

So would a defective sensor cause the engine light to come on, and the motor to run rough?

short answer is yes, it will, very much so!

my friends 2002 civic coupé's O2 sensor went bad so the check engin light came and and junk... anyways, he couldnt rev past 4000 until he got it fixe

Layspeed

Here ya go buddy,

1. You already did reset procedure and code 4 was still there

2. Turn ign. off. Disconnect 6pin TDC/CRANK sensor connector at distributor. Measure resistance between terminals "D" and "E" (Orange and White wires). If resistance is not 350-550ohms, replace distributor assembly.

You can also disconnect the harness from the ECU and check the same wires to make sure the connection all the way to the ECU is good also.

In the connector, terminals "D" and "E" are the bottom two by themselves.

If replacing the distributor doesn't work, only way to check the ECU is to substitute a known good one.

Also, I wouldn't worry about the fuel injector code until the crank angle one is fixed first...because if your ECU can't tell how fast your engine is cranking/spinning, it can't control the timing/duration of your injectors, which is probably why you're getting that code.

Good luck.

I would stay away from cheap distributors unless you get one with a lifetime warranty then it doesn't matter. I know of a place on ebay that sells new distributors, I've bought from them a couple of times. PM me if you're interested.

Lay