finally!!
haha, well i got the trailing arm bushings in, it wasnt all that hard.
got my bushing kit all figured out, hopefully gonna be here monday or tuesday.
getting tires either tomorrow or friday....kumho ecsta AST's 195/50/15's.
skunk2 front camber kit gonna be here friday.
as soon as i get my camera back ill get some pics up.
also....HOW MUCH DO I CUT OUT OF THE SHIFT LINKAGE!?
i need to know asap.
Some techs at my shop have the tool (looks slightly different) and once you get access to the bushing by lowering the TA fro the car it takes less than 10 minutes to press both old ones out, then press new ones in. Works by using an impact gun to spin the center portion while the hooks press against the TA itself.
So Im confused. The bushing is molded in the arm, how do you press another one in? Does it have its own metal race that press fits in?
True the ploy bushings for this application. Dunno bout binding, but they sure change the handeling characteristics of a car. I wont use the ES ones again. The beat up, broken, dryrotted stockers are more predictable.
the bushing does have a metal sleeve type thing around it. all we used was a piece of pipe the same size as the bushing and used a hydraulic press and the popped right out.
does anyone know the part number for the lower section of the 92 integra stock exhaust manifold along with the little section of pipe between the cat and the lower section of the header?
Ok, so I havent removed one from an awd car, but all the others (Integra) I had done there wasnt a sleeve. The bushing was attached (molded into) the trailing arm. Crazy. That makes it a lot easier.
Ok, so I havent removed one from an awd car, but all the others (Integra) I had done there wasnt a sleeve. The bushing was attached (molded into) the trailing arm. Crazy. That makes it a lot easier.
4WD civic the same as teggy...
the OEM type bushing is one piece ...
In case of poly, yes you have to leave outter sleeve in place when installing POLY bushing...
thats crazy, i figured they would pretty much all be removable. anyways on my last question i already got it figured out, the lower section of the OEM 92 teggy manifold is $497.00 retail!! im looking at getting the an-r compact style header or the hytec tri-y header.
so i just ordered a tri-y replica header and i got all the bushings in and everything, just need new tie rods and lower front ball joint boots then ill have the front all on and it will be a rolling chassis again! hopefully i can pick up the tie rods and lower ball joint boots today and have it all on by this evening. still havent got my camera back otherwise i would have pics up.
alright i know you have all been wanting to see this shit all together and finally its all together, just needs to be wired up and exhaust which i will do as soon as my parents get back from visiting family around the 17th i believe. at first i wasnt too happy with how it sits, cause i like cars slammed but its actually perfect height and the oil pan has a pretty good clearance and everything.......NOW ON TO THE PIC!!!!
i got my header on and the thing is still like 2.5 inches of clearance. i guess im gonna have to raise it back up. does anyone else that has a swap have clearance issues with their header? post up pics.
thanks, just get a 94 accord mugen front lip and repaint it the same color but paint the bumpers too. and repaint the moldings and handels all black. oh yeah, all new weather stripping.
header is back on, everything is torqued up, and brakes are bled. just waiting til monday to get shift linkage, o2 sensor and a radiator. then ill have all the fluids in and hopefully be taking it down to the shop to get it wired up.
so the car is going into the shop either tuesday or wednesday to get wiring, exhaust and shift linkage all done.
im just staying with obd-0 since it will be a little easier to get all wired up and what not.
ill keep everyone updated on this so as soon as i get it i can post a vid up.
ya for sure huh lol. well i just dropped the car off at trenz to get all finished up.
hopefully they can get it done by thursday since they will be closed fri-sun for july FORTH!
holla at a dolla yall.
very nice man looks good. just to help ya out on the trailing arm bushings man. if you know anyone that has an air hammer and a lift. its easier just to get the trailing arm bushings and then drop the two bolts and the two bolts that hold the parking brake line on pry the arm down make sure to move the p brake line outt of the way. air hammer them out then air hammer them in thats how we do it at honda. if you dont have a lift you can prolly do it if you get the car off the ground with some jack stands. if your going to do it this way make sure you put the bushing in the right way and with the arrow that says up going up. when your underneath the car you want to push the bushings out from the inside and do the reverse to push them in so standing outside the car push them in from the corners until in flush with the arm. btw taking a wire brush wheel to the paint on the bushings makes them easier to press in and toss some wd on them before they go in.
hey my wagon is running! here is a pic of my exhaust set-up.....
ill get more pictures up today and ill really try to get a sound clip of exhaust and it driving. also getting an alignment today at noon, and my seat belts are the auto ones and they dont reel back or forward, so should i take it to the honda dealer and have them take a look or what? thanks.
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Also curious about this because i can buy a set off a guy if they will fit.
haha, well i got the trailing arm bushings in, it wasnt all that hard.
got my bushing kit all figured out, hopefully gonna be here monday or tuesday.
getting tires either tomorrow or friday....kumho ecsta AST's 195/50/15's.
skunk2 front camber kit gonna be here friday.
as soon as i get my camera back ill get some pics up.
also....HOW MUCH DO I CUT OUT OF THE SHIFT LINKAGE!?
i need to know asap.
http://www.ef-honda.com/main/viewtopic. ... +bar+stock
So Im confused. The bushing is molded in the arm, how do you press another one in? Does it have its own metal race that press fits in?
True the ploy bushings for this application. Dunno bout binding, but they sure change the handeling characteristics of a car. I wont use the ES ones again. The beat up, broken, dryrotted stockers are more predictable.
the OEM type bushing is one piece ...
In case of poly, yes you have to leave outter sleeve in place when installing POLY bushing...
so i just ordered a tri-y replica header and i got all the bushings in and everything, just need new tie rods and lower front ball joint boots then ill have the front all on and it will be a rolling chassis again! hopefully i can pick up the tie rods and lower ball joint boots today and have it all on by this evening. still havent got my camera back otherwise i would have pics up.
overall, i must say this replica header is fucking nice as hell.
Any plans to aliviate this lil problem?
sorry they are a little bad.
any plans for the exterior?
im just staying with obd-0 since it will be a little easier to get all wired up and what not.
ill keep everyone updated on this so as soon as i get it i can post a vid up.
hopefully they can get it done by thursday since they will be closed fri-sun for july FORTH!
holla at a dolla yall.
never expect the best, thats what i say...
lol, did y call them already, are you done?, can i pick it up?
ill get more pictures up today and ill really try to get a sound clip of exhaust and it driving. also getting an alignment today at noon, and my seat belts are the auto ones and they dont reel back or forward, so should i take it to the honda dealer and have them take a look or what? thanks.