Wagon is down for now; I think it's the Alt (Long Beach CA)

Let's try this again. I typed this post up and somewhere, somehow lost the post so at it again.

Quick story:
Out running errands on Sunday night and noticed battery light flickered on. Monday on my way to work (30+ mile commute) light flickers on again and stayed on the whole drive. After work, I had to make a stop before heading home and battery light was on both legs of my drive home. By the time I got home head lights were super dim. Tuesday night I had to move the car for morning street cleaning and when I went to go start the wagon, the battery was dead.

I think its the alternator however I don't have the time to property diagnose the issue, order parts, wait for delivery and then reinstall the parts.

I hate to do this but I am going to venture out and purchase an alt from one of the local stores but my question is:

1. does it matter which of the two alternators I purchase (ND or Mitsu brand) and replace with and
2. do you all have a store brand preference?

I was leaning more towards NAPA over AutoZone, Pep Boys or a Kragen. NAPA's website says they have a brand new Alt for $130.20 no core; about .70$ cheaper than a rebuilt with core. I'm almost willing to pay the extra to not have to give up my core and rebuilt myself at a later date and have a good back up for the future.

Tell me your thoughts. I welcome all advise/opinions!

Thanks in advance,
Chuck

Comments

  • Use a multimeter and check it hook up to batt should be at 12.5 or around there then start the car and check it again should go up to 14. Something if not could be the alternator take it to autozone or parts place to double check. Good luck.
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    Get the reman. "new" parts are usually Chinese knockoffs that aren't near the quality of OE.

    As far as which OE brand- no preference here.

    Shadetree alternator check: Jump it off, get it running. Then, while it's idling, remove the negative battery cable. if it dies, the alternator isn't charging.

    FWIW, what you're describing is classic textbook alternator failure.
  • WOW! what a big pain in the rear. I determined it was the alternator that was bad and picked up a reman from NAPA Auto Parts store. I had to remove the alternator bracket and the driver shaft in order to get the old one out and put the new one in.
  • turbo_tegturbo_teg Council Member
    shitty i always used to take the master cylinder off and change it from the top just gotta be careful and not bump the tip of the master or it will suck air and then ya gotta bleed the whole system.
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