-Edit- Just got off of work, but I got a message back about that trans. He said that deal is still a go if I want to take it (which I do). But now is a matter of getting the old one out and new one in. Just let me know what you've got going on.
I'll probably just put coil-overs on the back so I can only raise it when towing.
Good idea!
OK. So what will give me the most stock-like ride, with RAISING capacity? (i.e. I never want to go lower than stock) If I get coilovers for an EF, aren't they necessarily shorter to allow for lowering- also shortening travel? Adjustable springs for a DA on wagon struts maybe?
I'll probably just put coil-overs on the back so I can only raise it when towing.
Good idea!
OK. So what will give me the most stock-like ride, with RAISING capacity? (i.e. I never want to go lower than stock) If I get coilovers for an EF, aren't they necessarily shorter to allow for lowering- also shortening travel? Adjustable springs for a DA on wagon struts maybe?[/quote:36qgljc8]
i dont know about the lowering part, but you could use some extended Top hats and regain your suspension travel....
That trick is only to move the strut's range of travel 'up' to match lowered springs. What I want to do is alter the spring to allow the car to remain at its intended height when loaded.
try stock wagon rear strut, coilover sleeve and DA spring, the oem spring in the rear slid right over the coilover sleeve. you can even cut a few dead coils for some added adjustment. my last setup was the crx/hatch rear strut tokico, i cut the bottom off so it so the sleeve will adjust all the way down, and had some 1.5 lower spring, tein but any should work. the short coilover spring compressed so much drove like crap! my way drove like a dream!
Whittled on some stock wagon struts to fit some BS Ebay sleeves. Added an inch of spring length, plus the DA LCAs, which add a bit of height due to the strut mounting hole being further inboard.
Also swapped sides with the LCAs to move the swaybar mounts further rearward, to clear the crossmember
I'll probably still have to whoop on the pinchweld there for clearance^^
leftover parts
I took the swaybar back off, Need more time to mount it to the "frame". The angle iron you see in the pics is my hitch, I'll have to work around that.
the old shadetree trick to check a head is to either pour gas in the combustion chambers, or into the intake/exhaust ports to see if it leaks through.It's a quick and dirty indicator of whether your valves are sealing. My trusty compression gauge and a squirt-can of oil had already told me that the head was good/rings were worn, this is just confirmation.
Great tip!
Man this is an impressive build. I would love to be doing this instead of fixing a puny little 1.6 SOHC...
I'll probably just put coil-overs on the back so I can only raise it when towing.
Good idea!
OK. So what will give me the most stock-like ride, with RAISING capacity? (i.e. I never want to go lower than stock) If I get coilovers for an EF, aren't they necessarily shorter to allow for lowering- also shortening travel? Adjustable springs for a DA on wagon struts maybe?[/quote:rr3uyfwa]one thing to note, is that the spring perch on the oem wagon shocks is lower than most other oem or after-market shocks.
i could slam the rear of my wagon with oem shocks and ebay coils.
now with ground controls and koni yellows i can't slam the rear, even with my new susp.-tech. drop arms.
Comments
but ey ...
job well done, i would have done the same
NO!!!!!!
That's what the wagon is all about!
lols...
dammit, I already bought a set for 140 :evil:
I found that guy with the transmission on IA and sent him a PM.
-Edit- Just got off of work, but I got a message back about that trans. He said that deal is still a go if I want to take it (which I do). But now is a matter of getting the old one out and new one in. Just let me know what you've got going on.
It's Tuesday night again, and I'm loaded for the same weekly ramble.
I put the DA rear springs and struts on tonight... looking for a little extra ride height for towing the camper. Looks goofy unweighted, don't it?
OK. So what will give me the most stock-like ride, with RAISING capacity? (i.e. I never want to go lower than stock) If I get coilovers for an EF, aren't they necessarily shorter to allow for lowering- also shortening travel? Adjustable springs for a DA on wagon struts maybe?
Just one of the SEVERAL times I've swapped rear suspension lately.
try stock wagon rear strut, coilover sleeve and DA spring, the oem spring in the rear slid right over the coilover sleeve. you can even cut a few dead coils for some added adjustment. my last setup was the crx/hatch rear strut tokico, i cut the bottom off so it so the sleeve will adjust all the way down, and had some 1.5 lower spring, tein but any should work. the short coilover spring compressed so much drove like crap! my way drove like a dream!
just my 2¢ hope it helps
Whittled on some stock wagon struts to fit some BS Ebay sleeves. Added an inch of spring length, plus the DA LCAs, which add a bit of height due to the strut mounting hole being further inboard.
Also swapped sides with the LCAs to move the swaybar mounts further rearward, to clear the crossmember
I'll probably still have to whoop on the pinchweld there for clearance^^
leftover parts
I took the swaybar back off, Need more time to mount it to the "frame". The angle iron you see in the pics is my hitch, I'll have to work around that.
and the front is dumped on butchered stock springs- looks like a funny car indeed.
Great tip!
Man this is an impressive build. I would love to be doing this instead of fixing a puny little 1.6 SOHC...