does anyone know the part number from energy suspension for

949

looking to replace these bushings.

one is for the front sway bar. the end of the front sway bar bushings.





second is for the bottom of the suspension fork.





i dont know what their part number is for energy suspension. nor do i know what the actual names suspension uses for thier desciption.
this is for the 91 civic 4wd wagon.


thanks for any assistance.

Mr G

16.8102G is the upper and lower shock bushing set
16.8104G is the front end link set.

G is for graphite infused bushings (black ones)

949

hey thanks bro!
i had no idea what the names where.

just curious on the side, is there anything else even better than energy suspension?

i checked their web site and the part number is there but the letter "G" at the end of the part # is not on the part # on their web site.
how important is the letter "G"?

Mr G

949 wrote:

hey thanks bro!
i had no idea what the names where.

just curious on the side, is there anything else even better than energy suspension?

i checked their web site and the part number is there but the letter "G" at the end of the part # is not on the part # on their web site.
how important is the letter "G"?

The G is important, you can also get red one's (R). It's in the foot notes at the beginning of the catalog or at the bottom of that page.

As for something better, well you could go with a spherical bushing. I personally wouldn't want them on my street car but they will be the most stiff and direct of bushings.

Prothane is another urathane bushing company that has a good rep, I'm not shure on how spread the application listing is thought.

I use energy suspension because that's what I can get a hold easily, every Honda that I have owed has gotten some in one way or another. Hell my wife's CR-V has some.

FakeJDMEF8

have fun pressing the LCA bushings out!!! remember, get PB blaster, a nice press and a good amount of similar sized steel tubing to mash em out!

Mr G

FakeJDMEF8 wrote:

have fun pressing the LCA bushings out!!! remember, get PB blaster, a nice press and a good amount of similar sized steel tubing to mash em out!

It's not to bad if you have the right tool and equipment. Or you can bring the arms to a machine shop and get them done.

moff3tt

Rather than push the old bushing out you can:burn out the rubber then cut the outer shell (careful not to cut the control arm too). The outer shell should be fairly easy to remove at that point. The ES bushings don't need the outer shell so this method is the easiest.

FakeJDMEF8

You have to be very very careful not to notch the arm or it will tear the new Energy bushing. I've found that using piping and grinding till it fits the outer bushing is easiest and most effective, and has no chance of damaging the arm....both ways work tho!

949

Mr G wrote:

949 wrote:

hey thanks bro!
i had no idea what the names where.

just curious on the side, is there anything else even better than energy suspension?

i checked their web site and the part number is there but the letter "G" at the end of the part # is not on the part # on their web site.
how important is the letter "G"?

The G is important, you can also get red one's (R). It's in the foot notes at the beginning of the catalog or at the bottom of that page.

As for something better, well you could go with a spherical bushing. I personally wouldn't want them on my street car but they will be the most stiff and direct of bushings.

Prothane is another urathane bushing company that has a good rep, I'm not shure on how spread the application listing is thought.

I use energy suspension because that's what I can get a hold easily, every Honda that I have owed has gotten some in one way or another. Hell my wife's CR-V has some.

what does the G mean? color? the R means red color i believe...

here is the link. no "G".

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/products.asp?cat=Honda+Civic+1991

FakeJDMEF8

Graphite (black)

Mr G

They used to make blue ones aka (B) that's why (G) is for the black graphite ones.

949

ohhhh thanks for the clearication. didnt even know that.

well i ordered the red ones. i hope that pressing out the old isnt going to be too difficult.

Mr G

949 wrote:

ohhhh thanks for the clearication. didnt even know that.

well i ordered the red ones. i hope that pressing out the old isnt going to be too difficult.

If you're car is a DD I would swap the bushings out on another set of arms so you're not down a car.

Sometimes they can be a pain to press/burn/saw out.

While you're there you can clean the arms up as well and re-paint them.

949

i want to really replace alll of those old bushings at this point. any other ones that you would recommend?

949

ok guys i just got them in the mail today.

here is my experience. i decided to buy them directly from energy suspension. why, because they have a 24 month warrenty against defects. so if you buy direct they will have you in their system. another reason i bought direct is that others will was either the same price or $1.00 +/- off. so its not a big deal.

i purchased:
16.8102R is the upper and lower shock bushing set
16.8104R is the front end link set

refered by mr G.
thanks!







the only complaint at this point, because i have not installed them yet, is that they charged me $7.99 for shipping when shipping only ran them $5.00. it should be the same for anyone here who orders these, because they are using usps flat rate which doesnt matter where its going within the connecting US.
so if your in the connecting states then they are actually over charging for shipping. it may not seem much but after a few customers they are making some extra profit.
you will see the charge of 7.99 for shipping if you attempt the create a purchase order on their main site, so i wont need to show you a photo of that.

here is a photo of the shipping box.


i will be attempting to install this week.

Mr G

That was fast, make shure you lube them up a lot with the supplied lube. If not they will squeak a lot.

949

im not sure what these are for?

ricefighter

you don't need those. they are for the rod radius bushing. you have a innovative crossmember with helm joints, thus its useless for you.


Mod edit, they are for your suspension tophats

949

thanks. brother!

just finished the install today.

i realized that i should have bought most if not all of the front bushings. it made a huge difference in the ride and handling with just the ones i bought so far. because of the old bushing being really brittle and worn out the ride has been sloppy and noisy. on highway speeds it tends to bounce and rattle. braking hard also had a loose sound and feeling to the braking. it sounded like a bolt was loose on the brakes.



you can see the crack in the sway bar bushings.



after the install the ride was smooth and clean. no more loose noise and it feels tighter. it still has stock suspension, sway bar, etc. except for the front innovative traction race bar.


when i was down there i noticed some other parts that looked like they could be replaced. i never knew how fun this car was to drive. it just feels right. i hear people talking about how fun the wagon is to drive but i never felt it when all these little issues were still on the car.

im only going to be concentrating on the front area for now. rears will be later in the summer.

next up replacements will be:

*16.3103 front control arm bushings

*16.???? front sway bar bushings (i dont know the size of the stock sway bar: 16mm, 18mm, or 19mm ?)

*16.10101 steering rack bushings (power steering models only and i have p.s.)

i calculated the difference between buying the complete master kit and buying individuals, it was not worth it for me as i dont need most of the parts in the master kit. also the difference between buying the master vs. individual sets is about $18 bucks. if you have never done it and have many of the stock parts on your car you might want to look into getting it but for me its not worth it.

Mr G

ricefighter wrote:

949 wrote:

im not sure what these are for?

you don't need those. they are for the rod radius bushing. you have a innovative crossmember with helm joints, thus its useless for you.


wagon............................4ever...................................

It's not useless, Those are not the radius rod bushings. Those are the upper shock mout bushings that go in the top hat.

Mr G

If I remember right the sway is 19mm.

949

thanks. then the front 19mm sway bushing it is.
16.5111 front sway bar bushing.


doing some research for the rear. does anyone know what this is for and where exactly is it located on the rear control arm? pictures of the location maybe?
part number # 8309
"Rear Compensator Arm Bushings"



http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=8309

949

Mr G wrote:

ricefighter wrote:

949 wrote:

im not sure what these are for?

you don't need those. they are for the rod radius bushing. you have a innovative crossmember with helm joints, thus its useless for you.


wagon............................4ever...................................

It's not useless, Those are not the radius rod bushings. Those are the upper shock mout bushings that go in the top hat.

wow nice, i could use it then!
i bet if i open them up that the originals are deteriorated as well.

Mr G

949 wrote:

thanks. then the front 19mm sway bushing it is.
16.5111 front sway bar bushing.


doing some research for the rear. does anyone know what this is for and where exactly is it located on the rear control arm? pictures of the location maybe?
part number # 8309
"Rear Compensator Arm Bushings"



http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=8309

Those are the bushings for the two outer pivots. Prothane uses steel shells sometimes just like the oem one's.

The energy one'e will look similar to the front ones you replaced.

Mr G

To do the rear these are the numbers I suggest using.

16.8103R Thats the shock one upper and lower
16.3104R Is the other rear lower control arm. They only fir 89-91
16.7106R Is the trailing arm one. The big massive donut one.

949

Mr G wrote:

949 wrote:

thanks. then the front 19mm sway bushing it is.
16.5111 front sway bar bushing.


doing some research for the rear. does anyone know what this is for and where exactly is it located on the rear control arm? pictures of the location maybe?
part number # 8309
"Rear Compensator Arm Bushings"



http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=8309

Those are the bushings for the two outer pivots. Prothane uses steel shells sometimes just like the oem one's.

The energy one'e will look similar to the front ones you replaced.

not sure if im following. (no pictures, it usually helps me visually)
these are the same as the ones i just replaced but for the rear?
these use metal sleeves instead of just rubber?
are these supposed to be harder or better?

Jaker

Those Prothane parts are actually for the toe control link at the front of the rear trailing arm (compensator arm). Energy suspension don't make a bushing for that location.

Part #7 from this pic:



I know I'm a little late to the game here, but since you went with the red bushings instead of the black like Mr. G suggested, you should take the time to sand off the shine on all the surfaces that'll see any rubbing/friction of any kind. Otherwise, in about 2-3 months, you will begin to lose your mind from all the squeaking that'll start.

949

oh man i didnt sand it down. i thought that having it shine would be a good thing. i guess less rubbing. but what your saying is that it will start to make noise. didnt know that. will taking it from the shine also make the bushing wear out faster?

949

it just dawned on me... i was planning on doing the rear sway bar later down the road. i heard i need to get a set of LCA that has some sort of attachment on the them. someone told me the ones from an integra should fit with the holes to bolt on the attachments. i found this from skunk2 and liked the look as well.

so would getting these have the holes needed for the sway bar attachment?

these also have have new bushing in them and leave me with the right attachments needed for the way bar too.

will this work?

of course i still want to replace the prothane as well because i wanted to replace any of the stock bushings that are worn out or aged.

Jaker

As long as you lube the bushings properly, the sanding will not accelerate the wear. You're not sanding much if anything off the actual bushing material. You're only trying to get rid of the shine. And yes, those Skunk2 LCAs will give you the replacement bushings you're after as well as a good mounting point for the rear sway bar endlinks.

949

i believe i found the actual location on my car where the prothane bushing is supposed to go into. it looks correct as the box contains (4) pieces and there seems to be 2 cylinders per side.

they seem easier than the LCA to get to but doing it may be a different story.