My motors keep blowing
klum
Senior Wagonist
This august my motor blew so I replaced it with another zc from attarco my cars been throwing code 8 for helps long but the only problems I have been having were the car seems to cut fuel randomly when I'm driving and making hard left turns with lower gas oreven withafull tank itbwill cut. The fuel as if it's fuel. Pump is hitting dry spots
I'm close to the end of the line with this car
can a bad bearing in a. Distributor make it wear on the motor faster? My replacement lasted 4 months
I'm close to the end of the line with this car
can a bad bearing in a. Distributor make it wear on the motor faster? My replacement lasted 4 months
Comments
Fuel would have no effect on what you are describing unless you are running a chipped ecu with a super lean tune. The dizzy can fail and seize but that will just jump timing and possibly bend valves.
They tried fuel pump, main relay, then someone recommended changing the ignition switch and associated wiring harness (which I guess is soldered to the switch) and from what i read, that if there is a poor connection in the switch, it'll cut off the power to the main relay, and then kill the fuel pump...
If it does it intermittently, think about loose wires bumping apart while you're driving, because everything vibrates while you're driving...usually though this would occur to parts you may have replaced or disassembled and it could be possible a screw hasn't been tightened down on a terminal, or it has loosened up.
As for the backfire action....not so sure....all the connections in the dizzy tight? Like the control module, and the ignitor coil?
Good luck, and don't give up!
Fuel filter may be shot "in the engine bay"
ignition switch is posable.
fuel pressure regulator may be acting up "not common but it can"
the dizzy maybe but try a known good one before you go buy another.
tps voltage and sensor good? iacv clean? coolant properly filled?
the list of stuff can go on, battery ground, short, the random one i ran into was the capacitors in my ecu were shot so it ran like shit.
also gummed up injectors not putting out a good mist. "professional cleaning" injector cleaner wont cut it.
oil, plugs, and proper timing are a must.
also know the parts are old so most of them need to be cleaned/tested/replaced.
It's the second sensor in the dist. It can also be located on the camshaft of DOHC engines. It determines the injection timming for each cylinder, also used to detect engine speed (rpm) to read the basic discharge duration, for different operating conditions.
If the dist. base bearing starts failing, it will heat the sensor(s) up, destroying the magnetism thus causing a code(s). It will lose 10% of it's strenght, each time it is heated up, to a 170 degrees plus.
In most cases, replacing the distributor is the only alternative. Especially if the bearing has failed.
Honda does don't stock the bearing, but other after-market compaines are said to have one.
If you have problems starting the engine, or drivability after the install check your cam aligment. The seizing bearing might have caused it to jump a tooth/notch or two. From the extra drag due to the bearing failing.
so will that cause my car to burn to much fuel and cause the piston rings to wear excessivly?