Speed Phreak's Build thread ('91 EE2)

I'm not a new user, actually been a lurker for quite a while. Figured I'd give myself and my wagon a proper introduction. I'm porting this thread over from my Intro thread, so don't mind the initial clutter. See below for the wagon porn. I purchased my EE2 back in April of 2008 (04/2008). Here are the unmolested shots of her when I picked it up... 200k miles on the chassis, no rust, good interior, with a D15B2 on it's last legs. Low low price of $800.

Right flank
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Left flank
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OEM Drivetrain (with A/C) and a "missing" 5th gear.
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- Fast forward to 2010, I didn't get to wrench on the vehicle much due to personal life issues and lack of a garage to work out of. Here is the vehicle as it sits currently.
- Color matched bumpers
- EP3 Si Wheels
- Added some cheap coil-overs on the stock shocks to tide me over until I can afford decent suspension.

Left flank
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Right flank

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B18C1, OBD-1 conversion, bolt-ons + other shite.
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I have other stuff waiting to go on to it when I have the time; DC GSR cluster, misc electronics, probably CRX or EG/EK HVAC controls whichever I decide to dig out for it, etc.

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Update for April 2011.

- Added new injectors: CBR 1000 RR units (310cc) ~ pic below
- Started test fitments on my GSR Gauge cluster. ~ pic below
- Installed 88-91 Si steering wheel.
- Fixed broken turn signal stalk.
- Fixed broken door lock pull.
- Fixed broken glove box latch
- Started stacking more parts for EX/power accessories conversion
- Picked up some 91-93 ES300 Lexus fog lights that seem like they would make good replacement/substitute for the round JDM style factory fogs...we'll see how they work out, although @ $17 for the pair from a local yard I really can't go wrong.

Low mileage, high performance street bike injectors
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Cluster mounted with pig tails, note I epoxied some tabs fitted with nylon set screws and lock washers to secure the cluster in the bezel.
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Cluster mocked in place...
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Update for May 2011

Knocked out a 90-93 map light conversion.

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Tragedy July 2011... Anyone else love to replace these?

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Update for October-2011

- Purchased blue pods from an HCW.com member.
- Installed new wiper blades
- Purchased 2 cans of R134a, a new dryer bottle, and R12 -> R134 conversion bungs: Prep for a/c system charge.
- Junk yard hopping yielded a 90-91 Accord armrest, it's in rough shape and it doesn't match the interior but it'll have to do.
- Interior shots up soon as I clean all the spare parts out of it.

- Engine/drivetrain complete and in the state it will stay for the foreseeable future
- GSR block/head, B16 pistons, Buddy Club 3+ cams, RMF clone header, AEBS intake manifold, ebay EF 4-door exhaust, stock airbox w/ KN drop-in......oh and it still has A/C.
- Dyno tune completed: 205whp @ 8200 RPM, 145wtq @ 6700 RPM

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Up next:

- Pod and audio system install
- Alarm/Kill switch(es) install
- Push button climate control install: 90-93 Accord HVAC controls w/ CRX stepper motors for factory fitment.
- EX/LX power accessory conversion

More to follow....

Comments

  • The BlockThe Block New Wagonist
    Your wagon is a work of art! What front lip do you have installed? It looks good.
  • rbwdrivenrbwdriven Senior Wagonist
    Nice white wagon.
  • holy smokes you have done phenomenally with this car. Very original and everything on it looks OE. Nice wagon man.
  • Speed PhreakSpeed Phreak New Wagonist
    @ The Block : It's actually a factory 88-91 Si lip that I managed to luck into.

    Thanks guys, my Intro thread turned into a make shift build thread, bare with me while I clean up the mess.

    LOL
  • Speed PhreakSpeed Phreak New Wagonist
    10-14-2011

    - Fixed busted marker.

    Notice nice hole in my driver marker.
    525.jpg

    Proper tools to split a factory corner marker... A butter knife and some patience.
    526.jpg

    Used some clear epoxy for the fix, masking tape to make sure said epoxy stayed put.
    527.jpg

    Finished product, could use some profiling but at least it's sealed.
    528.jpg

    Notice inside of marker has been weather eroded.
    529.jpg

    Scuffed and resprayed inside of marker.
    530.jpg

    Continued for busted marker fix...made some DIY amber markers as well.

    Masked off
    531.jpg

    4 coats to the clear section
    532.jpg

    3 coats to the entire marker... and complete
    533.jpg

    On the car shot...
    534.jpg
  • OddMarzOddMarz New Wagonist
    Great work on the corner lights, I love how the this wagon looks so simple and all of a sudden you peek in the engine bay and BAM B series, props to you sir keep up the good work
  • Mandalore88Mandalore88 Senior Wagonist
    looking forward to the 90-93 accord hvac control swap.

    what all parts are needed from the crx/.
  • Speed PhreakSpeed Phreak New Wagonist
    looking forward to the 90-93 accord hvac control swap.

    what all parts are needed from the crx/.

    Me too, i'm working on getting my Pods installed right now but the here rain is making it slow going. Once those are in i'll probably move to the HVAC install. I hate the lever controls in the Civics always have. I did a CRX HVAC swap into a hatch previously, I had to grab the following:

    - HVAC controls + harness pig tails
    - The electric stepper motors one is located on the Fresh/Recir box(behind the glove box) and the other attached to the mixer/air director valve under the dash(driver side near the gas pedal). Both are green in color, make sure you clip the harness pig to make wiring it in easier.
    - Also grab all the push rods/mechanical connected to the CRX stepper motors, you may not need'm but it's better than if you don't have them.
    - The stepper motor's bolt straight to the Civic air ducting, no rigged up mounting required.
    *optional*
    - Accord Mixer Valve and pull cables attached to it: This is located in the engine bay and works a lil differently than the Civic unit. The CRX -> Accord HVAC swap below mentions some jacked up cable mounting/routing. I'm going to try this method before all that.

    I had to make a sub-harness when I did the swap in my hatch to connect the HVAC control to the stepper motors. This is why it's important to grab the harness and clip off some pig tails. I'll have to do the same with the Accord unit, just with some additional color matching on the wiring. The CRX HVAC controls are pretty prone to breaking at the hot/cold selector and tough to find/expensive. I went with the 90-93 Accord HVAC option since they are pretty easy to find(10$ at the local u-pull-it). Also there is an in-depth write up on how to swap one into a CRX here.

    http://www.crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=26741

    I have about $25 invested in the parts from local yard at this point and it should be a fairly straight forward install all things considered. I'll definitely post up a HOW-TO and some vanity pics when it all goes down.
  • Mandalore88Mandalore88 Senior Wagonist
    looking forward to the 90-93 accord hvac control swap.

    what all parts are needed from the crx/.

    Me too, i'm working on getting my Pods installed right now but the here rain is making it slow going. Once those are in i'll probably move to the HVAC install. I hate the lever controls in the Civics always have. I did a CRX HVAC swap into a hatch previously, I had to grab the following:

    - HVAC controls + harness pig tails
    - The electric stepper motors one is located on the Fresh/Recir box(behind the glove box) and the other attached to the mixer/air director valve under the dash(driver side near the gas pedal). Both are green in color, make sure you clip the harness pig to make wiring it in easier.
    - Also grab all the push rods/mechanical connected to the CRX stepper motors, you may not need'm but it's better than if you don't have them.
    - The stepper motor's bolt straight to the Civic air ducting, no rigged up mounting required.
    *optional*
    - Accord Mixer Valve and pull cables attached to it: This is located in the engine bay and works a lil differently than the Civic unit. The CRX -> Accord HVAC swap below mentions some jacked up cable mounting/routing. I'm going to try this method before all that.

    I had to make a sub-harness when I did the swap in my hatch to connect the HVAC control to the stepper motors. This is why it's important to grab the harness and clip off some pig tails. I'll have to do the same with the Accord unit, just with some additional color matching on the wiring. The CRX HVAC controls are pretty prone to breaking at the hot/cold selector and tough to find/expensive. I went with the 90-93 Accord HVAC option since they are pretty easy to find(10$ at the local u-pull-it). Also there is an in-depth write up on how to swap one into a CRX here.

    http://www.crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=26741

    I have about $25 invested in the parts from local yard at this point and it should be a fairly straight forward install all things considered. I'll definitely post up a HOW-TO and some vanity pics when it all goes down.


    Thanks for the in depth reply man I appreciate it. This is definitely on the top of my to do list. Thanks for the link and would love to see pics of your when you get around to it
  • Speed PhreakSpeed Phreak New Wagonist
    10-19-2011

    Pooooooooooooooooods [/Zombie]

    Thanks oldskoolef

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    Onto the rest of the audio components: front speakers and replacing the circa '91 Pioneer tape deck.
  • 10-19-2011

    Pooooooooooooooooods [/Zombie]

    Thanks oldskoolef

    Your welcome :D
  • good numbers you put down !
  • Speed PhreakSpeed Phreak New Wagonist
    Prepping to knock out 90-93 Accord HVAC Control conversion. Parts listed below...

    Wiring supplies, soldering iron and heat shrink not pictured.
    720.jpg

    2 used Accord HVAC controls, with wiring pigtails. Factory knobs are a rare commodity apparently, had to order 2 new from Honda.
    721.jpg

    Close up of the part-number if anyone needs them
    722.jpg

    Accord HVAC controls have 5 fan speeds, where the Civics only have 4. I'll be wiring in the matched Accord fan speed resistor in the factory Civic location to maintain this function. Accord fan speed resistor with wiring harness is buried in the accord blower motor assembly and somewhat a pain to remove. One can be purchased new, but the matched wiring harness plug wouldn't be included.
    723.jpg

    To make the entire push button assembly function properly a set of CRX HVAC stepper motors will be needed. These can be fairly easy to come by on most wrecked CRX's. No one bothers to remove them, unlike the much vaunted CRX HVAC control. On the left is the Fresh/Reric stepper and on the right is the vent selector.
    724.jpg

    More to follow, destruction starts tomorrow AM.
  • Speed PhreakSpeed Phreak New Wagonist
    10-22-2011

    Might take a few posts but here is the HVAC project.

    Start of the project.
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    Console, radio, and glovebox/trim removed
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    Backside of the factory HVAC controls
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    Buh Bye stock
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    Behind the glove box for the vent/recirc stepper motor install. Pictured is the factor wagon cable pull still installed. Need to unhook and remove the cable.
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    Vent/Recirc stepper motor, note the actuator arms are the same between the 2. CRX is variant is still attached to the stepper.
    787.jpg

    Stepper Motor in place, it's held in place with only 1 screw but it's steady. More screws would require removing the whole blower motor box assembly.
    788.jpg

    Factory blower resistor, this unit is what controls fan speed. I will be swapping in the Accord unit since I want to have all 5 fan speeds associated with the Accord HVAC controls. The Civic one can be resued with the factory wiring but you'll only get 4 speeds like a stock HVAC control.
    789.jpg

    The accord resistor is larger than the civic one, so it will not fit in the factory location and some creative mounting must be undertaking. The fan resistor MUST be in the vent/air track to stay cool during operation. Here was my solution, your mileage may vary.


    1) Removed the brace strap between the blower motor box(white) and the A/C core box(black)
    790.jpg

    2) Notched out the black box since it's plastic is thinner than the material on the white box.
    791.jpg

    3) Test fit for clearance, taking the cut-out all the way to the junction as shown pretty much makes it perfectly.
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    4) Mounted and strapped back like factory. I had to relocate the hold-down screw a little lower than factory.
    793.jpg

    That's it for the passenger side, I routed the stepper motor and Accord resistor wiring above the black A/C box and into the console area. Sorry forgot to take a picture of this. Now it's time to examine and mount the air director stepper motor. This is located under the driver's side of the dash, near the accelerator pedal.

    Here is the factory lever/pivot assembly with the cable attached as it would be stock. To remove the factory HVAC controls you'll have to disconnect this cable and the one on the vent/recric control.
    794.jpg

    Stock Civic/Wagon Lever/pivot assembly(bottom), CRX variant on top. Note the differences, the rear bracket is the only one that needs to be swapped. I had the whole assembly, so I just changed it outright.
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    CRX assembly installed
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    Stepper motor installed overtop of the lever/pivot assembly.
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    That's all I was able to accomplish in the first sitting with the vehicle. More on the next post to the tune of Accord HVAC modding/mounting and wiring it all in.
  • Speed PhreakSpeed Phreak New Wagonist
    I'd like to mention some of my inspiration comes from the previously mentioned CRX -> Accord HVAC article over on the CRX community.

    http://www.crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=26741

    Some stumbling points on actually mounting the Accord HVAC are as follows.

    1) Cold/Hot cable pull assembly has 1 cable *push* versus the Civic/CRX double cable *pull* setup. The accord unit uses 1 less cable and effectively works backwards when compared to a Civic/CRX assembly. Will need to rig up a solution, i'm opting to trim the Civic cable assembly off of the factory civic HVAC and mod it to work.

    2) Accord HVAC mounts drastically different from civic. Going to transplant Civic HVAC mounting points to Accord unit.

    Factory HVAC lever assembly, front plate removed.
    798.jpg

    Trimmed hot/cold selector off and profiled it to fit properly on the Accord unit.
    799.jpg

    Civic temperature selector super glued in place on the Accord HVAC unit. Note the section on the Accord unit I had to trim, you can see the exposed green PCB.
    800.jpg

    Accord knob doesn't exactly fix on the Civic temp control, had to remove the metal sleeve for the knob to install properly.
    801.jpg


    Mounting flanges trimmed from Civic HVAC
    802.jpg

    Glued to Accord HVAC
    803.jpg


    Now the fun part....wiring. This will be similar to the CRX -> Accord swap. However only in some parts will be similar since I have to effectively add the CRX stepper motors and wire custom sub-harness back to the HVAC unit. Also the CRX-> Accord walk through doesn't account for the Accord fan speed resistor I added into my install.

    Stepper motor sub-harness assembled, these will connect the vent/recric and level selector stepper motors that were installed previously.
    804.jpg

    Sub-harness installed and pulled into the HVAC/Radio cavity.
    805.jpg

    Blower/Fan Speed harness wired in. Since this is different that the walk-through I'll mention the following differences:
    806.jpg

    1) Wire Accord fan resistor harness direct color for color to the fan speed plug on the Accord HVAC. Leave the Blue/Red wires until the next step.
    2) Cut large Blue/Black from the factory Civic harness and wire it to the large Blue/Red Wires. The Blue/Black wire is the 12V feed for the blower motor, unless you complete this step, you won't have any fan action.
    3) Wire small green wire on the Accord fan speed plug to small green wire on the Civic fan harness.
    4) Wire small black wire on the Accord fan speed plug to small black wire on the Civic fan harness.

    5) The stepper motor sub-harness will have 2-extra wires each, Black/Yellow and a Black wire.
    5a)The Black/Yellow wire(s) can be wired into the Black/Yellow found on the factor Civic green plug. This is the 12V ignition feed for the stepper motors.
    5b)The Black wire(s) will need to be grounded, I chose to ground mine to the accessory/cigarette lighter harness blow the radio.
    6) The rest of the wiring is pretty much as described in the CRX conversion.

    807.jpg

    All harness wired and attached to HVAC assembly.
    808.jpg

    HVAC mounted. Note my Civic mounting tab solution didn't survive the test fitting and wiring procedures. If I would've pulled it all back out and used some epoxy on the tabs it would've held fine. I had to resort to using screws and zip-ties like any effective shady tree engineer would.
    809.jpg

    Finished and everything pretty again...added new-ish radio while I was at it.
    810.jpg

    Welp questions and comments welcome I suppose.

    cheers.
  • H_civic66H_civic66 Senior Wagonist
    I like it... Good job, not sure if I would go through all that but I do like. What you else you got planned?
  • BillBoardBillBoard council member
    very very cool mod!!!

    and bonus points for the nice write up!!!
  • AbideAbide Council Member
    wow quite an undertaking but perfectly executed. i'm jealous.
  • danzdanz Wagonist
    lots of work! which makes it even better.

    because if it was easy, everyone would do it :)
  • Awesome build man. Everything done clean and right. Funny you say you got lexus fogs, cause i recently got a set myself for free since the one had a bad ground. the second i seen them they reminded me of the oem honda ones. Only thing i'd need to do is make my own bracket
  • TerminusVoxTerminusVox Senior Wagonist
    Nice one! I like making it look factory.
  • Check out my wagon build, Ive had es300 fogs on for a while. They are awesome for cheap, as well as a yellow projector. :)

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  • Speed PhreakSpeed Phreak New Wagonist
    That looks nice, I was going to try to emulate the EF2/5 style round fog lights.... But i'm a lil scarred about cutting bumper and i'm having trouble finding something to replace the little insert/trim ring to make it look nice. Kinda of like this.

    1020.jpg
  • That looks nice, I was going to try to emulate the EF2/5 style round fog lights.... But i'm a lil scarred about cutting bumper and i'm having trouble finding something to replace the little insert/trim ring to make it look nice. Kinda of like this.

    I helped Almostnicklees install those fogs, and we wanted to mount them like OEM EF9 fogs also, but there's wasn't enough room, and we didn't have time to make brackets. If you figure out a way to do it, make sure you do a write up, as I've picked up another set of them, and will be trying to mount them OEM style also. Thanks.
  • Speed PhreakSpeed Phreak New Wagonist
    I helped Almostnicklees install those fogs, and we wanted to mount them like OEM EF9 fogs also, but there's wasn't enough room, and we didn't have time to make brackets. If you figure out a way to do it, make sure you do a write up, as I've picked up another set of them, and will be trying to mount them OEM style also. Thanks.


    I'm curious about the space constraints that you encountered? I haven't had a lot of time to remove the bumper and do some test fitments but "eyeball" measurements made it look like it would fit. Since there isn't a lot of room behind the bumper, I had toyed with the idea of removing the outer casing from the Lexus fogs. They are actually sealed in a pretty robust outer shell and are much smaller if you remove it.
  • We had to cut small holes in the supports behind the fogs to allow space for them to sit flush behind, you will have to remount the horns to a different spot. Really you don't need the brackets as they sit pretty well in the space provided.

    And if you take them apart you have no way of protecting the projector from dirt and water. The same goes for the electronics
  • We had to cut small holes in the supports behind the fogs to allow space for them to sit flush behind, you will have to remount the horns to a different spot. Really you don't need the brackets as they sit pretty well in the space provided.

    And if you take them apart you have no way of protecting the projector from dirt and water. The same goes for the electronics

    Thanks for the info. I really don't like the OEM square fogs, I think they are just too large in the bumper. I wanna tear into the fog project soon but i'm not sure if it's going to be that or the power window/locks conversion next. Anyone else who has info about the round EF2/5(?) style fogs feel free post up.

    Decisions decisions.
  • Added alarm to the wagon a few days ago, couldn't tell HCW and it was freaking terrible. I'm a former mobile security installer so as such I know a few tricks as well as some of the methods used by car thieves. The easiest way to render an alarm ineffective is to simply rip it out if its not well concealed in the vehicle. This goes for any part of the alarm, siren included. I've seen many cases of a siren just being ripped off becuase they are out in the open. Typical alarm installs are tagged to park lights, guess what happens when a thief comes to steal your car in the night? They turn on the park lights when they drive off, defeating the flashing of the alarm. The only last hurdle is a traditional starter kill, while not easy can be deafeated by a couple people roll starting vehicle.

    Sorry no pictures due to my laziness, Some highlights below:

    - Extra stealth install location for alarm
    - Used light flash on turn signals versus the traditional park light flash.
    - Re-configured alarm starter kill as an ignition kill
    - Hid alarm wiring in with OEM wiring
    - Installed siren in fender to prevent tampering by thieves
    - Hood pin added for extra security
    - Installed 120dB pain generator in cabin for addition theft prevention.
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