lsd awd :taken from old board
ThatDoodle
Council Member
Can someone confirm this?
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HondaWagonSTS
Wagon Driver
Posts: 45
(9/26/05 10:47 am)
| Del All LSD AWD
I just finished replacing my drive shaft (removing the viscus coupling and making it a true AWD) I also installed an LSD in the rear I should have the motor and trans (also with LSD) installed next week I'm just waiting on some parts for the turbo kit. we are planning on running 10 to 12 lbs of boost. I'll take some pic's this week.
Comment
HondaWagonSTS
Wagon Driver
Posts: 45
(9/26/05 10:47 am)
| Del All LSD AWD
I just finished replacing my drive shaft (removing the viscus coupling and making it a true AWD) I also installed an LSD in the rear I should have the motor and trans (also with LSD) installed next week I'm just waiting on some parts for the turbo kit. we are planning on running 10 to 12 lbs of boost. I'll take some pic's this week.
Comments
Administrator Wagon Crackhead
Posts: 2692
(9/26/05 7:31 pm)
| Del
Re: LSD AWD
the front differential is also lsd?
did you use a phantom grip for the rear diff as well or ?
we'd like to see them pics
Phantom in the front and rear with upgraded springs
How to turn your wagon into a true AWD
it's really easy... If you look under your wagon you'll see two carrier bearing with the viscous coupling in the middle. remove the four ten MM 12 point bolts that hold the front flange to the viscous coupling.
next remove the flange that is bolted to the front carrier bearing and VC one 32 MM nut. next remove the four bolts that connect the rear driveshaft to the rear diff. four 10mm 12 point bolts.
next remover the two 14mm bolts that are holding the rear carrier bearing to the body.
Now that you have the rear drive shaft removed from the car you need to separate the VC from the rear shaft 4 10 mm 12 point bolts that hold the rear flange to the shaft need to be removed. next remove the flange from the rear carrier bearing one 32 mm nut
that flange needs to take the place of the front flange we first removed.
now you have to have the rear drive shaft lengthened to 46 3/16" it cost me $130.00
no other modifications just make sure you swap the flanges.
I can send you picks if you want I only have a cell phone cam.
this is why big 4wd's that use a transfer case have locking hubs at the front, and usually run rwd only until they get in the rough stuff
with the old 80's subarus that had an engaged 4wd, apparently if you drive them in reverse with the 4wd engaged, and I guess do a few little turns, the gearbox will 'wind up' and can actually crack the casing
fine for a dirt only car, not for road use.
as an aside, I'm trying to gather facts about the later ('90 onwards) RT4WDs that have a switchable 4wd coupling - there should be a way of turning it on to be full time, as I hear they are full time when in SL gear - presumably via an electronic switch. I want to use one of those with my '88 running gear for dirt use