Suspension = Fail (Update) Help!

So the first time I took my wagon on the interstate I noticed the rear end was jumping side to side after hitting small bumps and potholes. I drove it about an hour away from my house to my parents where I was staying a few days. I know nothing about suspension especially on wagons but this just doesn't look right to me.
Update: I installed the st rear sway bar in the wagon hoping it would fix the sway the rust out was causing, but it doesn't seem to help at all. I realized the other day that not only did both the sides fall through the frame, they also fell through the body on both sides near the wheel well. The rear wheel wells are pretty much non existent. So would the best bet be to weld up patch panels on the wheel wells and re weld the bolts to it? Or is there some sort of Rear Lower Tie Bars I can add in there to support it? Any help is greatly appreciated. Also if anyone with an rt could post pictures of how under their car is that'd be great for reference.
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Comments

  • leWolfleWolf Senior Wagonist
    Oh shi..... . . . . What the hell were they thinking? I dont know if you would want to put the money in it to get something like that fixed. I will say that isnt supposed to be like that at all, did it just rust and fall out?

    I should say fixing it right is going to be expensive.
  • GlifiousGlifious Wagonist
    Yeah it looks like it rusted a bit and then popped out. Also looks like they tried rewelding it and it came loose again. Would the frame be that hard to try and reinforce that its not worth it? The hole isn't that badly rusted out. Any advice either way helps. I think I took a hit on this buy. :roll:
  • 91_wago91_wago Wagonist
    its definatly fixable i wouldnt scrap the whole car just for that. it seems like your not capable of welding or repairing some thing like this so you should probably take it to a shop. if you do decide to scrap it drop if off at my house ill take it free of charge.
  • GlifiousGlifious Wagonist
    What do you think something like this would cost me to fix? I was wanting to get it dropped while it's in the shop while i'm at it.
  • go to a home improvement store in the building materials grab a square washer "it's for securing a bottom plate of a wall to a concrete floor"
    then Find a nut that fits the bolt, the bolt attached to the bushing that fell out. drive it over to a weld shop and show the guy
    You want the nut welded to the square washer. then the washer welded to the uni-body in that location.
    Parts 5$- at the store.
    50$- at most from the welder.
    If you just go to the auto shop its going to be over a 100$
    Good luck.

    Oh then get the leaf spring thing out of there.
  • GlifiousGlifious Wagonist
    Right on. Well sadly it's like that on both sides leaf spring and all.
  • 1988rt1988rt Senior Wagonist
    holy crap that looks like fun, you can always grab a batterie powered zaw zall and go to your local wrecking yard and ask them to do the honors for a oem piece
  • go to fastenal ask for grade 8 bolts.
    hardware store bolt aren't as strong, basic do-it-yourself home stuff.
    grade 8 are among the strongest you can buy, but
    not very many hardware store carry them.

    good luck to you.
  • GlifiousGlifious Wagonist
    I was more worried about the washer failing to hold rather than the bolt. I'll just replace everything that's needed and just hope it holds. I have 2 children and want it to be safe enough for them to ride along without me worrying too much after I fix this. Thanks for all the info guys, I appreciate it.
  • I agree on the grade 8 its a lot stronger, ACE has them and the home depot or lows only have grade 5. worst case get them new from the factory.
    having the washer welded on will hold strong but for peace of mind you could have a weld shop reinforce the area surrounding it with 1/8 inch flat stock. "Don't get me wrong it looks funky but once its welded in it will work great"
  • ragenasianragenasian Moderator
    I agree on the grade 8 its a lot stronger, ACE has them and the home depot or lows only have grade 5. worst case get them new from the factory.
    having the washer welded on will hold strong but for peace of mind you could have a weld shop reinforce the area surrounding it with 1/8 inch flat stock. "Don't get me wrong it looks funky but once its welded in it will work great"

    I would have to agree with the reinforcement. With that kind of rust you might find that the surround metal is also pretty weak and if you are planning on putting kids in this thing I would take every precaution to making sure that it is done right.
  • GlifiousGlifious Wagonist
    Alright so I'll go with the 1/8th inch flat stock cut a hole in it and weld it in on the top side of the frame. Get grade 8 bolts and some strong nuts to weld to the flat stock. Sounds like the safest and most sturdy way to go. Everyone agree? :D
    Thanks again for all the help guys.
  • Drill the hole and weld the nut to the plate, then to the frame so the nut is recessed like original.
    Post pics of the work if you can. good luck with it brother.
  • Exactly what I ment, I just worded it weird. Haha. But yeah I'll take pictures and post them all as soon as I get to work on it.
  • Basically there's nothing holding the body to the suspension anymore. The frame is secured to the suspension via the suspension techniques sway bar. Please read the updated red text on the first post. Thanks guys.
  • So that is a picture of your Rear Trailing Arm bush, correct?

    Where it attaches to the body it is rusted out, correct?

    Do not drive the car is is unsafe and needs some SERIOUS work, an actual qualified body repair person needs to do this. Nothing you can bolt on will help.

    Basically all the stress is going into your rear shock (forward and back movement) as the Rear Trailing arm is not attached, this will cause the shock to have stress on it that is not designed to have and could well snap
  • As stated above, bolting things on will not help the problem. It will need to be taken to a body shop to have that entire rusted area replaced in order to properly and safely bolt the trailing arm back on. Ive personally never seen it that bad before.
  • Correct, thanks for the info. So any pics on how it should be so I can show the body man?
  • Wow, I would just find a new shell personally. For someone else to do the work you may be looking at hefty charge. Best bet would be to find a 88-00 civic in a junk yard and cut out that section and weld it to yours.
  • 3rd4ce3rd4ce Council Member
    NZ-DB8R wrote:
    So that is a picture of your Rear Trailing Arm bush, correct?

    Where it attaches to the body it is rusted out, correct?

    Do not drive the car is is unsafe and needs some SERIOUS work, an actual qualified body repair person needs to do this. Nothing you can bolt on will help.

    Basically all the stress is going into your rear shock (forward and back movement) as the Rear Trailing arm is not attached, this will cause the shock to have stress on it that is not designed to have and could well snap
    :idea: man if there is a will there is a way....
    :arrow: 216.jpg
  • Thats a little different ;) And Bam is no ordinary wagon owner.

    Plus its been new unrusted bits welded in
  • This is the perfect reason to learn how to weld!
  • Does anyone know if it can be any 88-90 civic? If so it won't be a problem finding the parts. As for a new shell, I just can't seem to sell her. I don't think I've been attached to another car so much before. ;) I can weld, I'm just pretty bad at it.
  • Its bad but, get in there with a flap disc "sandpaper" clean it up to see the true extent of damage, then its a matter of welding it up with new metal and welding a nut on the inside. its easy breezy. just have quality welds and it will be fine.
    After cutting up many cars for fire training i have found that cars dont have really not thick gauge steel, and they are really weak. if you do the above you will be fine. or just go to a welder and tell him what you want it should be 100$

    If you were in cali i would get it done for you. have confidence and get it done- the more you drive it like that your tempting fait.
    If you go and sell it consider that you just gave the buyer a death certificate at your expense- fucked up also
    if you bought it like that go back and make the d bag flow a little cash to fix it. <---- this is what i would do if i bought it not knowing. if they dont help then its serving them with papers to make them pay because here in cali thats what everyone does.
    "i would just use it as a threat usually people dont want the pain and cost of court so it persuades them"


    edit- after looking closer at the pics the comment i maid "the leaf spring thing" derr-they are e brake cables. i was to caught up on the rusted out part.
  • IF you can weld, do it up... serve em a blow to the head...papers are for wiping.
  • I don't know how it goes here in indiana, but yeah pretty messed up the seller didn't even tell me anything about it. I'll definitely be saving the wagon. I just can't seem to let it go. But yeah I'd never sell it to someone like this. Doesn't sound like too hard of a task for me. I just would like the proper metal to put in there because I don't even know where I'd start with fabricating something up for it sense there's nothing to even go off of. Do you think a hatch or sedan would be good enough sheet metal?
  • yea you could cut up a sedan or hatch to snag the section you need! graft that sob on there!
  • Yay win! Alright I just wasn't too sure it'd match up properly.
  • The messed up part of it, the seller did try to weld it once- thats just f-ed

    the graft is a good easy way- the subframe is 1/8 thick i think so you could just grind it flat and weld the new graft on with out cutting your car. might need to replace that bushing too.

    worth a shot at that scare tactic also- for time, money and putting your life at risk.
    not disclosing a major issue like that is on the seller.
  • Great. Well thanks everyone. I'll definitely be grafting it on there. I'll try to get ahold of the seller as well. Can't wait until it's all done and ready to drive. Might as well get the new bushings while I'm at it too. Thanks again guys.
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