Dpfi to Mpfi, Cel 4

Apocalypsox

I need some help from someone here with experience doing DPFI to MPFI. My car is using the stock DX harness with all of the Z6 plugs added where necessary. Ecu is a PM6. Dist is a brand new unit.

I pulled all of the old gear out of my car, did all of the wiring according to http://www.fourthgenhatch.com/mpfi.html

She starts up and runs fine, firing on all 4 and such. I'm getting CEL #4 though. I've gone back through all of the Distributor to ecu wiring, soldered everything, put the appropriate plugs in, etc. Measured the ohms on the Crank angle at the dist, checks out in good spec.

Anyone have a running MPFI swap and know off the top of their head which pins the crank angle goes to? The guides say B10 and B12 on some sites, Other guys are saying its B15 and B16, my Chiltons book for EFs and Del Sols says B15 and B16. There is just a lot of conflicting information regarding it.

Any help is much appreciated, I'm hoping someone here can provide some insight before I mess something up.

Apocalypsox

Never mind. B10 and B12 it is. Fixed that problem, but now my fuel injectors won't fire

Always something. started up and ran before I fixed the crank angle problem. No codes. Back to wiring. :roll:

wagodizzle

i once had B10 and B12 mixed up when i did this and for a month i couldnt figure it out. i resoldered about 3 times before i realized what was going on.

check and recheck the pins! then recheck again :P they are tricky little bustards.

Apocalypsox

Well, I fixed the wiring for my Crank Angle sensor and got the CEL to go away. The car won't start with the crank angle plugged in now, though! If I pull Pin B10, the car will start right up in limp mode and run fine. (For being in limp mode)


The crank angle sensor seems to be reporting out of spec at my ECU. What I've read says it should read between 350-550 ohms, mine is reporting between 280-380 to the ECU. Anyone with a little more knowledge of wiring than me know what would cause a drop in Ohms between two points?

Silvertoe88RT

Double check is my best advise
this link looks solid as did your link, check it out you may have something backwards.
http://hondaswap.com/civic-crx-ew/dpfi-mpfi-92385/

The proper resistor with injectors to match.
The wiring is correct DOHC vs SOHC
the c1 to b10 pin, c2 to b12 pin
new C1 to dizzy blue/green stripe.
new C2 to dizzy blue/yellow stripe.
Good luck keep us updated.

Apocalypsox

I think I may have found the problem. Since it seems like my injectors are only getting power when the main relay is priming the system, I started checking wiring that has to do with powering injectors. It seems my power wires I have right now aren't running to A15, and apparently they are supposed to. The black/yellow wire that comes from A15, through the relay and into the engine bay has constant 12v with key on and the prime cycle complete. The yellow/black that my old DPFI injectors used seems to only be getting power when the main relay is priming.


//edit: Oh yeah, a source. Read http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2889205 to learn that apparently injector power comes from A15.

Apocalypsox

Honda-Tech guys are telling me I made a dumb. Apparently the Z6 OBD1 dizzy outputs at 24hz or something, and the PM6 is expecting 16Hz. Conversion harness to run a P28 is on the way, we shall see if that fixes it.

Heres a video showing exactly what I'm talking about as well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7l7XaeYZzQc

turbo_teg

so wait were u trying to run an obd1 dizzy with an obd0 computer..... it it something like 16 degrees off from eachother so it is near impossible to mix and match them. I did something like this a few years back and that was my issue.

1988rt

I did that once man was that a headache

Apocalypsox

Yup, I messed up. Lol. Never even thought about it, either. I've got a conversion harness coming to run a P28, so all shall be well soon. A week of running it to make sure all of the bugs are out of the wiring, then I'll start putting my turbo parts on.