A/C pressure switch question (already searched, no luck)

I'm having this really weird problem with my air conditioning.

First some info: When I bought the car a few months ago, A/C did not work (the compressor would not engage). The previous owner said it needed to be recharged, but the system had not been opened. That guy was full of shit on many other issues, so who knows...

Anyway, I started to fill it with a 10 oz. can of R134 (it already had the updated adapters on the hoses) with UV dye to detect leaks. The compressor started to come on almost immediately. Just a few minutes into it, I found a leak, where one of the hoses connect to the condenser. It seemed to be a loose fitting, so I tightened down the hose, and the leak appeared to stop. I have no idea how much refrigerant leaked out, or how much was left in the system.

The compressor would still come on, but the air was not very cold at all. I bought a big 19 oz. can of super arctic chill 134a the next day and started to add it.

About halfway through, the compressor shut off, and then every 3 seconds or so, it would engage, and immediately shut off. I added the remaining contents of the 19oz can, and the problem still persists. The can had a pressure gauge on it, and it still says its below normal range.

I have been trying to work my way through the service manual to check all the relays and connectors and such.

When I unplug the pressure switch, and jump the terminals on the plug, the compressor stays on, but the air still doesn't get very cold.

I'm wondering if I need more refrigerant in the system. BUT if the low refrigerant is causing the intermittent shutoff, why did it not do it from the beginning, when it had no pressure at all in it?

I'm going to try to add more refrigerant, but if anyone has any advice in the meantime, I would appreciate it.

Thanks!

Comments

  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    Sounds like it cycling out because of high pressure- either overcharged or a restriction in the high side. The gauge on the can is only monitoring the low pressure side. In fact, if it reads low, that may coincide with the high side restriction (may be expansion valve). If you know someone with a set of manifold gauges, you could get the whole picture.
  • Unfortunately I don't know anyone with a set, and a set from the auto parts store is like $90, and they don't rent them out. Some guy at work says his brother might be able to help me out. I'll have to wait and see...
  • Oh, in addition, I did hear a loud thud or pop noise a few times that sounded like it came from the area near the compressor. maybe it was something in the lines being shot around due to pressure buildup?
  • I got a cheap set at Harbor Freight for around $40.
  • JakerJaker familEE
    Is R134a the correct refrigerant for the system? I thought the 88-91s used R12?
  • moebiiusmoebiius Wagonist
    Supposed to be r12 up to 92-93 it can be either on or after
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    Jaker wrote:
    Is R134a the correct refrigerant for the system? I thought the 88-91s used R12?

    You're right, most cars were R12 until '93ish. The problem is that 12 is now prohibitively expensive IF you can even find any. I haven't even heard of any R12 for sale lately.

    So it's pretty much 134a or bake. Even 134 has gone way up (like everything else except my pay :x ) a couple years ago I paid $69 for a 30# tank. Now it's $259.
  • Civics switched to 134 somewhere between late 93 and early 95. This car was previously converted to 134.

    You need a license to legally purchase R12.
  • moebiiusmoebiius Wagonist
    Freeze12.com it works and it's cheap
  • Figured this out. Had a bad expansion valve.

    The high pressure line would get cold enough to freeze up, but low pressure side wasn't cold at all, and the air from the vents wasn't cold either.
  • Good find.
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