Main Relay or Fuel Pump

dukevonDANKdukevonDANK Wagonist
in Electronics, Fueling & Air Conditioning
My RT doesn't want to turn over when I refuel. So I sit and crank it for what seems like forever at the pump...

Noticed the guy before me had the fuel filter hooked up in the reverse order....changed it, didn't help the refueling issue.

At first, I'm thinking the fuel pump is bad, because I read 12 volts at the fuel pump...dismissing the fact that maybe I should test the resistance on the main relay, because it works intermittently, and I don't hear the fuel pump making bad noises (unless of course the leads came loose on the pump motor itself after the connector).

I think the previous owner sold the car because he couldn't figure out why it does this...he replaced the whole distributor, plugs, wires, the whole 9 yards...

Think it's the fuel pump or main relay?

Comments

  • The_HeadThe_Head familEE
    The main relay is statistically more likely to be your problem.

    If it is original you should replace it anyways, even if it turns out NOT to be the solution to your current issue. Or, if you have the skills, at least take it out and inspect the solder joints and resolder if necessary.
  • dukevonDANKdukevonDANK Wagonist
    I took out the main relay, and jumped it the way haynes service manual says, and checked for continuity between the specified terminals, and it rang out each time I checked for continuity.

    Each time I hooked it up to the battery, i could hear it making contact, all sounded the same, no weak click for either combinations.

    Because this happens at each fill up, my friend, sea-doo tech for R&D and former race team tech, suggests vapor lock.

    Thinking about inspecting the pump, and the in tank filter guy...it's been in the snow belt sucking e-85 crap for god knows how long...238,000 miles as well....
  • dukevonDANKdukevonDANK Wagonist
    Looked at the fuel pump and float, and it has all been replaced by the previous owner, and looks clean.

    The screen looked brand new as well.

    Maybe this is why he sold it, dumped money into parts and never fixed the problem.

    The_Head: if the solder joints look kosher, think something internal has fouled?

    Any other thoughts?
  • gunsup0331gunsup0331 New Wagonist
    Positive lead on hot side of fuel pump, neg to ground side
    BATTERY voltage (same exact as battery) indicates an OPEN. Slightly less, close to source or varying voltage across the pump means the fuel pump is consuming the voltage but not doing its job
  • JakerJaker familEE
    If the main relay is out, don't put it back in without re-soldering all the solder joints. They do crack, and the cracks are really difficult to detect. The 10 minutes to re-flow all the solder joints is not worth the headaches of putting it back in and still having the same issues. At least you will be 100% sure it's not the relay. The solder joints only get intermittant when the relay gets hot (after driving for a little while).
  • dukevonDANKdukevonDANK Wagonist
    ok thanks guys
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