Rear lca bolt stuck again

shh_yogi_shhshh_yogi_shh Wagonist
in Suspension, Braking & Wheels
Ok so surely every one who lowers there wagons goes thru this or is it just me? What does everyone do before to get them loose without cutting. I've pb blasted,wd 40,spit,cursed everything even used my impact wrench but nothing. Any help/advice would be amazing thank you

Comments

  • CharbCharb Administrator
    Liquid Wrench has always been my best friend.

    I'm also big on using long pipes for torque.
  • shh_yogi_shhshh_yogi_shh Wagonist
    Charb1618 wrote:
    Liquid Wrench has always been my best friend.

    I'm also big on using long pipes for torque.


    Is liquid wrench similar to pb blaster? I've never heard of it.
  • CharbCharb Administrator
    I'm not sure. It loosens bolts. Maybe same product, different brand.
  • hondamatichondamatic Wagonist
    try heating it with a torch then touching it with a candle
  • 503Wagon503Wagon moderator
    heat it up.....breaker bar.....jack handle on the breaker bar....if that doesn't work then pee on it.
  • ragenasianragenasian Moderator
    503Wagon wrote:
    heat it up.....breaker bar.....jack handle on the breaker bar....if that doesn't work then pee on it.

    I have never heard of this technique, so please try it and tell us if it works :lol: :lol: :lol:
  • shh_yogi_shhshh_yogi_shh Wagonist
    so thats the secret of the great rusty north eh? ill definitely try the pee, its gotta work. seriously though i didnt know if there was a secret trick everyone was doing and i was just left out in the dark.
  • bluecruiserbluecruiser Wagonist
    id say PB blaster and liquid wrench. mine never had problems like this.
  • AintGotNoSolAintGotNoSol Wagonist
    I assume you are talking about the bolt that holds the bottom of the shock to the LCA. I had this problem on my del sol recently.

    I loaded it with PB Blaster, then I actually took off the whole control arm with the shock attached. Once it was out, it allowed the shock and control arm to swivel back and forth a bit. I assume the bold was stuck inside the bushing sleeve, it was really gunky. I used the electric impact and worked the bolt back and forth and after a few tries, it started to loosen up.

    CLEAN THE HELL OUT OF THE BOLT AND THE INSIDE OF THE BUSHING ONCE YOU GET IT APART! Also, get some all purpose grease and lube the slotted part of the bolt so it doesn't seize up. Do this with the other LCA bolts as well. To get it back together, first put the inside bold for the LCA, not tightened down, then line up the shock body, and then the outside LCA bolt to the trailing arm. Use a small jack to lift it up into place if needed. Get the torque specs for all the bolts and use a torque wrench. When you torque these bolts down, make sure there is a load on the suspension. To do this, put a jack under the LCA and jack it up until the suspension compresses to the normal ride height, and it will start to lift the car just a little bit. USE A JACK STAND FOR SAFETY!!! Doing this will help maintain range of motion without putting excess stress on the bushings from twisting, and will prolong bushing life.


    GOOD LUCK!
  • SiWagonSiWagon Council Member
    I think AintGotNoSol is on to something.AintGotNoSol's idea may not work with our wgn. 'cuz we don't have slotted bolts.It worked for AintGotNoSol 'cuz the rust was only on the slots where as ours is a regular bolt so is rusted all the way around.That's why I had recommended replacing our bolts with the slotted(ribbed) bolt.For more details check this link:
    +++SiWagon & clsmooth Suspension Upgrades(Updated 11-1-10)

    Question is did you get the nut off?AintGotNoSol's idea will work ,but use a Arbor Press to press out the bolt,then use the ribbed bolts.
  • AintGotNoSolAintGotNoSol Wagonist
    Hey just to add a little bit....

    First off thanks to SiWagon, I was unaware about the lack of slotted bolts. From that article it seems to state that only the 88 has smooth bolts, while 89-91 has the slotted bolts??? It didn't seem too clear so i wasn't sure. Not having worked on this specific car, I was unaware that the bolts were different. Also, you asked something about removing the nut... On my 92-95 the nut is welded to the bracket on the shock body. (Unless the you have some brands of OEM replacement shocks that include a separate nut) If its not welded then you may have slightly different results. I seem to remember my old EF Hatch having welded nuts, but that was YEARS ago...

    BTW, mine wasn't just rusted on the slots, It was covered with a hard layer of caked on gunk, I assume it was 17+ years of old grease blended with rust. The gunk was so hard and thick, I had to use a ton of parts cleaner, and eventually a bench grinder/ wire brush wheel to clean it off. It essentially turned my slotted bolt into a slightly oversized smooth bolt.

    I hope that my input from before did help, and I also appreciate all the info I've gotten back! I'm sure it will come in handy one day.
  • jdmitrswappedjdmitrswapped New Wagonist
    I've come across some impossible bolts before. Takes patience. I kept hitting it with penetrating oil like twice a day for a week and banging around it with something metal - hopes that little vibrations would break some rust. Then after like a week of this it gave me no problems.

    A $14 harbour freight 1/2" breaker bar goes a long way :) Good luck man.
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