LS swap in 88 RT and shifter is too far forward

DomDom Banned
in Engine & Drivetrain
The swap is all in and everything running except for shifter problems. When I'm in first gear, the shift knob hits the center console and when I'm in 2nd gear its in the same spot a normal shifter would be when in the neutral position. I'm using hasport ef b series linkage. Can anyone tell me if they've ran into this or if they know what is happening? Thanks.

Comments

  • superhatchsuperhatch Moderator
    I'm confused. I'm assuming you lost your 4WD, or don't really have an RT.

    http://lmgtfy.com/?q=hasport+shift+linkage+problem

    ^ I found some possible answers online. :P

    It sounds like the Hasport linkage has a lot of trouble with hitting the linkage tunnel. Most suggestions are to use a modified B series linkage, or more specifically an SiR linkage.
  • JakerJaker familEE
    But Dom is saying that he used the Hasport linkage which is designed for swapping a B series into the USDM EF chassis.
  • DomDom Banned
    Jaker wrote:
    But Dom is saying that he used the Hasport linkage which is designed for swapping a B series into the USDM EF chassis.

    Haha thanks. So I was dumb and had the shifter in backwards so it was too far forward, but still having the same problem of not getting into ANY gear . If I turn the car off and mess around with the gears, every once in a while I can get it to start in gear, but if I turn it on out of gear, I can never get it into gear. The bushing needs to be replaced on the shifter but I'm pretty sure that not keeping it from every gear
  • stampernstampern Senior Wagonist
    If you can get pics that would be good, either that or you clutch isn't working right and not disengaging.
  • superhatchsuperhatch Moderator
    Hah! I said it might be upside down at first but then edited my post. :P

    Jaker, I was reading on some other forums and it seems that not everyone has good luck with the hasport linkage and that sometimes it does cause problems.

    On said other forums they also said that you should remove the linkage and make sure you can cycle the transmission through all the gears first to make sure the trans isn't the issue.

    Have you topped up the trans fluid?
  • DomDom Banned
    Ive already gone through all the gears fine without the linkage, so that's y I'm not really considering the tranny bad. But I'm unsure about what could be causing it to not go in. I'm using the stock ef shifter cable and just flipped the support bracket over and it seems to work fine rather then running a DA cable. U think there could be a problem w/ that?
  • driftin90driftin90 Senior Wagonist
    have you looked at your clutch pedal assembly? sound like what I went through.
  • DomDom Banned
    driftin90 wrote:
    have you looked at your clutch pedal assembly? sound like what I went through.

    Well what should I look for? I've checked it out and it looks fine. What happened with Urs and ehat did u do?
  • JakerJaker familEE
    Dom wrote:
    Ive already gone through all the gears fine without the linkage, so that's y I'm not really considering the tranny bad. But I'm unsure about what could be causing it to not go in. I'm using the stock ef shifter cable and just flipped the support bracket over and it seems to work fine rather then running a DA cable. U think there could be a problem w/ that?

    Are you talking about the clutch cable here? Are you certain that it's adjusted correctly? If it's not adjusted right, then you could very well not have enough travel to disengage the clutch properly which would lead to the shifting issues you describe. Then again, a broken pedal assembly would do the same thing.
  • DomDom Banned
    I've tried all over with the adjustments and it seemed like there was a little difference in funding the gears, but still the same problem. I got it to start in 1st and I had my foot on the brake and clutch, but even w/ the clutch all the way down, once I took my foot off the brake it started going forward.
  • DomDom Banned
    Ok so I pulled the tranny and I'm gonna open it up which is what I should have done in the first place, so while I have it out, how exactly does that screw driver thing work? Like to shift through gears. I can move it straight forward, neutral and straight back.
  • JakerJaker familEE
    In neutral, you turn the shift shaft with the screw driver. once you've turned it all the way one way, then you can push the shaft in into a gear, or pull it out for the other gear. Turning it one way would be 1st/2nd, the other way would be 5th and reverse. In the middle without twisting the shaft at all would be 3rd/4th. When you've turned it in the direction for 5th and reverse, you won't be able to move from 5th to reverse, because there's an internal lockout to stop you doing this while blasting down the highway at 75 mph. However, you'll be able to go from reverse to 5th.
  • DomDom Banned
    I already pulled the tranny and the input shaft bearing casing blew and thete was a lit of metal shards inside. But when my tranny was just pulled out, the shift shaft doesn't turn side to side. Only went 3rd neutral 4th
  • JakerJaker familEE
    Sounds like either some metal bits have "gummed up the works" and jammed your gear selector shafts, stopping you from being able to go from the 3rd/4th gate to the other 2 gates (1st/2nd - 5th/reverse), or one of your gear selector forks has broken (that's happened to me before way back in 1992 on my 89 Civic Si), and the broken bit of the fork is jamming the same works as above.

    When my fork broke, my "more experienced" buddy got in the driver's seat, and slammed the shifter over to pop the broken bit loose. I drove the car that way for months without another problem. When it was time to change the clutch, I opened the tranny at the same time to find a piece of the fork about 3/4" long sitting in the bottom of the case.
  • DomDom Banned
    Well I already took apart the tranny and everything was in tact and in good shape other then the input shaft bearing. The bearing has a little casing that keeps all the ball bearings in a exact distance . That casing made a lot of metal pieces and shavings and I'm thinking right now that this is what could be causing the problem
  • DomDom Banned
    So now I believe my clutch is still engaging because even when my footsteps on the clutch it will move forward. I've pretty much come to the fact that there's something wrong w/ the pressure plate. I know all b series flywheels are interchangeable and my my clutch is new, only thing I can think is that there must be something wrong w/ the pressure plate(which is very used). My throwout bearing is working good and I've checked it each time while removing the tranny. Any input would really help! Thanks
  • PeterPansWagovanPeterPansWagovan Wagonist
    Inspected your clutch pedal assembly?
  • DomDom Banned
    Yes and it feels correct
  • JakerJaker familEE
    Have you had any machining done to the flywheel?
  • DomDom Banned
    Nope havnt gotten it resurfaced
  • SiWagonSiWagon Council Member
    Have you tested clutch travel?I'm thinking that something is causing the clutch fork to not go all the way down.Go underneath the tranny Push the clutch fork all the way down.See where the clutch fork stops.Now try it with some1 pushing down on the clutch pedal.Does the fork stop @ the same spot?
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