One Valve is Bad and There is Not Compression on one Piston!

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Comments

  • stampernstampern Senior Wagonist
    The problem with swapping those other 2 motors is they are going to need other parts - your distributor won't bolt up to z6 head without modification. I think the y8 will need modification as well. Also the motor mounts have to be swapped to get those motors to fit, the z6 has to have the timing belt covers modified to fit the new motor mount. Also, if you are thinking about putting the z6 in, you are correct, you'll have to either convert the car to obd1 and use all the z6 stuff, or leave the dpfi in there and get no where near the full power out of the motor. If you aren't worried about the power gains which it sounds like you aren't, there is no point in converting you car to work with these other motors. It's gonna be better in the long run that you don't modify your harness and put different parts in your car that's gonna make it harder for your next technician to troubleshoot the next time something breaks. If you did your own work and wanted the HP, i'd say go for the other motors, but you just want reliability it seems like.
  • ReaccionReaccion Senior Wagonist
    stampern wrote:
    The problem with swapping those other 2 motors is they are going to need other parts - your distributor won't bolt up to z6 head without modification. I think the y8 will need modification as well. Also the motor mounts have to be swapped to get those motors to fit, the z6 has to have the timing belt covers modified to fit the new motor mount. Also, if you are thinking about putting the z6 in, you are correct, you'll have to either convert the car to obd1 and use all the z6 stuff, or leave the dpfi in there and get no where near the full power out of the motor. If you aren't worried about the power gains which it sounds like you aren't, there is no point in converting you car to work with these other motors. It's gonna be better in the long run that you don't modify your harness and put different parts in your car that's gonna make it harder for your next technician to troubleshoot the next time something breaks. If you did your own work and wanted the HP, i'd say go for the other motors, but you just want reliability it seems like.

    Yes, that is what the mechanic told me too. I would need new intake manifold, new distributor, new ECU, new harness, motor mounts, and so on. I do not want to really deal with these. I would like the horse power gain but like I already mentioned, my car is automatic and I would be able to get the full juice out of the engine anyways without hurting the transmission (Which I would not do). So I would be installing the Z6 head to be used just like any other D15 head I guess. My regular wagon manifold intake, regular computer, harness, distributor, and regular everything….
  • stampernstampern Senior Wagonist
    It's a lot of work compared to what needs to be fixed. Swapping a motor to fix a valve is a overkill in my opinion. If you want the upgrade then go for it, but if you just want it fixed, swapping all of that isn't the right way to go about it.
  • ReaccionReaccion Senior Wagonist
    stampern wrote:
    It's a lot of work compared to what needs to be fixed. Swapping a motor to fix a valve is a overkill in my opinion. If you want the upgrade then go for it, but if you just want it fixed, swapping all of that isn't the right way to go about it.

    Yes, I understand what you are saying. But I am just swaping the Z6 head and not the full Z6 engine. No other modification will be done to the engine. If I would have gotten a regular D15 head handy, I would just put that one instead.
  • stampernstampern Senior Wagonist
    The z6 head would be fairly easy. You could just modify the d15 distributor to fit on the z6 head - I'm sure there are pics - I think it's just the top bolt that doesn't quite line up and has to be cut a little. The other stuff like the mpfi conversion and new ecu and all that technically isn't necessary to make the head work.
  • ReaccionReaccion Senior Wagonist
    stampern wrote:
    The z6 head would be fairly easy. You could just modify the d15 distributor to fit on the z6 head - I'm sure there are pics - I think it's just the top bolt that doesn't quite line up and has to be cut a little. The other stuff like the mpfi conversion and new ecu and all that technically isn't necessary to make the head work.

    Okay, I see. I do not how hard it is to change a wagon's head, but I am going to see if me and my Compare could do that job. I already ordered the head gasket and cam seal from Honda. I also would try to do find a regular D15 head instead so the job would be a little easier.
  • I vote for:

    1. Find used D15B2 head in good condtion. Should be easy and cheap. No one wants them.
    2. Use D16Y7 block with D15B2 head, and DPFI manifold, etc. That solves the dizzy/wiring/OBD problem, because you don't have to do anything.

    That should get you back on the road relatively easy and inexpensively. That's what I would do with my fiance's wagon if what happened to yours had happened to it (knock on wood).
  • ReaccionReaccion Senior Wagonist
    The_Head wrote:
    I vote for:

    1. Find used D15B2 head in good condtion. Should be easy and cheap. No one wants them.
    2. Use D16Y7 block with D15B2 head, and DPFI manifold, etc. That solves the dizzy/wiring/OBD problem, because you don't have to do anything.

    That should get you back on the road relatively easy and inexpensively. That's what I would do with my fiance's wagon if what happened to yours had happened to it (knock on wood).

    Yes, that is a great choice. However, I would have to buy the D16Y7 block to do so since this block does not belong to me. Please note that my block is just fine. The problem is the valves. I do not know if I would be able to solve my valve problem just by replacing my current D15 head with D16Z6 one. The mechanic says that I could also use my current DPFI manifold.

    Or, I may just try to find a regular D15 head and just drop it in... I am afraid to buy a damaged one though....
  • stampernstampern Senior Wagonist
    any d series head (d15b2, b16a6, d15b7, d16z6, d16y7, d16y8) will bolt up and work fine. The only difference you'll have really is the bolt pattern for the d15b2 distributor that you have. It will bolt up to a b2 or a6 and possibly the b7 head just fine, I know the z6 it won't and unsure on the y7 or y8. Other than that any of those heads will work just fine for you. I'd personally just try replacing the valve, they're cheap. The only way you'll know exactly whats wrong is to pull the head off. After that your mechanic can tell you if you need a new head, or if replacing the valve is all you need.
  • ReaccionReaccion Senior Wagonist
    stampern wrote:
    any d series head (d15b2, b16a6, d15b7, d16z6, d16y7, d16y8) will bolt up and work fine. The only difference you'll have really is the bolt pattern for the d15b2 distributor that you have. It will bolt up to a b2 or a6 and possibly the b7 head just fine, I know the z6 it won't and unsure on the y7 or y8. Other than that any of those heads will work just fine for you. I'd personally just try replacing the valve, they're cheap. The only way you'll know exactly whats wrong is to pull the head off. After that your mechanic can tell you if you need a new head, or if replacing the valve is all you need.

    Yes, the mechanic just told me this morning that he sold the Z6 head with the block to somebody else. So I am scratching that off from the list. I will probably just fix mine or get a new D15 head....

    I already bought the head gasket and the cam seal today from Honda....
  • Ah, I didnt realize your block was ok. I would just find another B2 head then. I dont think it would be too difficult to find one. I also agree with stamper, that you should see if the original head is repairable first. But, it might cost more in labor to repair the head, than it might cost to get a decent used one.
    stampern wrote:
    any d series head (d15b2, b16a6, d15b7, d16z6, d16y7, d16y8) will bolt up and work fine. The only difference you'll have really is the bolt pattern for the d15b2 distributor that you have. It will bolt up to a b2 or a6 and possibly the b7 head just fine, I know the z6 it won't and unsure on the y7 or y8. Other than that any of those heads will work just fine for you. I'd personally just try replacing the valve, they're cheap. The only way you'll know exactly whats wrong is to pull the head off. After that your mechanic can tell you if you need a new head, or if replacing the valve is all you need.

    If a D15B2 dizzy will work on a A6 head, it should work on a Y8 head. I know this because I am using a D16A6 dizzy on a Y8 head. That's it.
  • ReaccionReaccion Senior Wagonist
    The_Head wrote:
    Ah, I didnt realize your block was ok. I would just find another B2 head then. I dont think it would be too difficult to find one. I also agree with stamper, that you should see if the original head is repairable first. But, it might cost more in labor to repair the head, than it might cost to get a decent used one.
    stampern wrote:
    any d series head (d15b2, b16a6, d15b7, d16z6, d16y7, d16y8) will bolt up and work fine. The only difference you'll have really is the bolt pattern for the d15b2 distributor that you have. It will bolt up to a b2 or a6 and possibly the b7 head just fine, I know the z6 it won't and unsure on the y7 or y8. Other than that any of those heads will work just fine for you. I'd personally just try replacing the valve, they're cheap. The only way you'll know exactly whats wrong is to pull the head off. After that your mechanic can tell you if you need a new head, or if replacing the valve is all you need.

    If a D15B2 dizzy will work on a A6 head, it should work on a Y8 head. I know this because I am using a D16A6 dizzy on a Y8 head. That's it.

    I posted an ad locally and I got like 4 people that have one D15 head. It is just that, how would I know that the head I am buying does not have a problem???? That is my whole concern....
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