1991 2WD Wagovan Cranks but won't Roll Over. [VIDEO]

Not sure what is wrong here, I just replaced the main relay and charged the battery. Below is a video of how it sounds, I'm hoping someone can draw a conclusion from that.

Also, I think I can hear the main relay click and the fuel pump buzz, but I am fairly vehicular-ly retarded. Lemme know if you need any more details. Thanks.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QGFT7ym8Pjs

Comments

  • 90wagon90wagon Band Wagon
    you should check the first 2 things spark and fuel, my friend.
  • ZakkZakk Wagonist
    I know the car has fuel, but whether the fuel pump is working or not is another story (nor within my knowledge). The spark plugs, is there an easy way for me to check if that's my problem?
  • Pull the plug out, keep it in the plug wire and lay it on somewhere metal outside your bay (I just did this last night and laid it near my hood latch) then crank it and have someone check to see if there is spark jumping on the plug.
  • wrenchwrench Band Wagon
    First off charge the battery the engine sound like its cranking to slow and while thats going on remove the spark plugs and see if they are wet from fuel, if they are hold the throttle to the floor and crank it over, if the plugs are clean, spray some carb cleaner and see if the engine starts, if it does then you should crack open the fuel line to the rail and see if you have fuel, if fuel comes out, check to see if you have spark and injector pulse. also honda are known for the rings to stick if it has sat for awhile, if thats the case spray some wd40 or a little bit of trans fluid into the spark plug hole and install some old plugs and push the gas pedal to the floor and crank it over, i hope this can help you.
  • 90wagon wrote:
    you should check the first 2 things spark and fuel, my friend.
    and compression i learned the hardway that no compression=no start
  • ZakkZakk Wagonist
    Okay, so I had a somewhat mechanic check it out and after a few little things he was able to tell me this.

    A. The spark is good.
    B. The engine still doesn't turn over when manually adding fuel.
    C. The battery isn't the problem.
    D. The engine may be blown.

    Can someone that knows quite a bit about hondas give their opinion based on what I have provided?
  • Do a compression check?

    I'm just an amateur though.
  • ZakkZakk Wagonist
    The_Head wrote:
    Do a compression check?

    I'm just an amateur though.

    Seems like a fair enough assumption, I looked up a guide on how to do it on a Accord, seems fairly simple and backwards compatible. My only issue is, where do I go about getting a compression tester? Is it likely I could find a shop to do this for free?

    I'll ask around my more mechanically oriented friends and see what I can find.
  • I think you could borrow one from Autozone or one of the other chain parts stores.
  • ZakkZakk Wagonist
    Scratch that, I have a more mechanically inclined friend coming over tomorrow with a compression tester. He also said the problem may be...
    if there is no coolent it could have a blown head which if let go to long would fill the cylnders with coolent and seze up engen which is a common problem with the 4 cylnders
  • unlimited02unlimited02 Senior Wagonist
    check ur dizzy and see if u got strong spark b/c the itnighter(sorry bad spelling) might be bad
  • ZakkZakk Wagonist
    Okay, compression seems to be fine. I talked to someone a little more 4 cyclinder inclined and he said it has compression and wants to fire, but he isn't sure why it isn't.

    I am running up to the hardware today to grab some sandpaper to try and clean it up a little bit, I don't expect it to help that much but it's worth a shot.
  • FoofighterFoofighter Band Wagon
    Do you have a Haynes manual for the Wagon? At the start of the manual it has a super handy troubleshooting section...

    Engine Cranks but will not start:
    1. Fuel Tank Empty.
    2. Battery discharged (engine cranks slowly).
    3. Battery terminal connections loose or corroded.
    4. Leaking fuel injector(s), faulty carburetor, fuel pump, pressure regulator, etc.
    5. Fuel not reaching fuel rail or carburetor.
    6. Ignition components damp or damaged.
    7. Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs.
    8. Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit.
    9. Loose distributor is changing ignition timing.
    10. Broken, loose or disconnected wires at the ignition coil or faulty coil.
  • ZakkZakk Wagonist
    Foofighter wrote:
    Do you have a Haynes manual for the Wagon? At the start of the manual it has a super handy troubleshooting section...

    Engine Cranks but will not start:
    1. Fuel Tank Empty.
    2. Battery discharged (engine cranks slowly).
    3. Battery terminal connections loose or corroded.
    4. Leaking fuel injector(s), faulty carburetor, fuel pump, pressure regulator, etc.
    5. Fuel not reaching fuel rail or carburetor.
    6. Ignition components damp or damaged.
    7. Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs.
    8. Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit.
    9. Loose distributor is changing ignition timing.
    10. Broken, loose or disconnected wires at the ignition coil or faulty coil.

    I do not, I suppose I'll start on that list. Gives me something to do for the day :P
  • Almost sounds like my wagon did when the timing belt slipped.
    Also, to ensure that it's not the Main Fuel Relay...
  • ZakkZakk Wagonist
    Okay, haven't gotten much time to mess with the wagon this week (first week of school, not living at home) but I am heading home this Thursday and I'll have all weekend.

    My plan for the weekend,

    First, test the wagon with another distributor, just to make sure this isn't my issue.
    Second, make sure the timing belt is where it's supposed to be.

    If both of that fails, I'll probably just spend the rest of the weekend crying or swinging a hammer at the wagon.
  • JL56TCJL56TC New Wagonist
    I would almost garantee its your dizzy... I had the same problem and it ended up eing my dizzy...did you take the cap off the dissy and see if its sparking in the cap... it sounds like it still has compression so I dont think that would be it. the other thing ceck your ECU and all the plugs to the dizzy. it might be upluged by accedent
  • If you havent checked the dizzy, take the cap off, if red dust inside rotor may be bad. take coil out, if hot spotted more than likely bad. Or to save time but not money just replace the entire distributor
  • Use a multimeter to check the resistance of the coil in the dizzy (should be the plug with 2wires in it), the resistance across these two wires should be about 1.9 - 2.1 kOhm (1900-2100ohm) if thats the case then your ignitor is fine and dandy.

    If you have a dizzy to compare it to, then you can do this same test for all sensors in the dizzy. Ive only tested the ignitor before so cant tell you what result to expect
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