RT4WD Z6 swap done blowed up.
superhatch
Moderator
So I got the motor out, w/o removing the trans. I dropped it and moved it a bit but got it out. During this process I realized that the trans indeed would have to come out to get the other motor back in. I doubt that I'll be able to align splines while trying to scrape the crank pulley down the side of the engine bay. I started to remove the trans and disconnected the pass. side axle and the 4, 10mm bolts that hold the drive shaft to the transfer case...success. Then came the shift linkage/cable weirdness. They don't seem solid, and I'm kind of afraid of pulling them off. Can I just remove the cotter pins and pop them off? I already have the fat part of the cable loosened and removed from the rear mount, just not sure how to approach the cables as they are mounted to the trans.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
-Jacob
Any help is greatly appreciated.
-Jacob
Comments
Any ideas?
I've seen two starter types:
And this one, which is the one I have:
The Z6 and A6 starters (or at least the one that was in my car with the A6, and the one on the Z6 when I picked it up) look exactly the same, but do have different model numbers. I've tried both. Do I need the stubby one perhaps?
It had nothing to do with the battery or starter. It seems that there was a bit of water that got into the #1 cylinder. I didn't realize this because I had the plugs in the whole time. After taking out the plugs and cranking it manually I shot out some water and after that it was misting with each compression cycle. I found the culprit to be a loose intake manifold nut that allowed some of the coolant to (im assuming) enter the head and travel through the valves into the #1 chamber. This is all assumption.
2-3-4 are all dry as a bone.
Letting it dry out until Sat, then doing a bunch of oil changes.
1 and 41 are for your oxygen sensor, either faulty or unplugged. 14 is IAC Valve (Idle Air Control) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
The 14/41 were fixed but I still had a #1.
Those are all irrelevant though because the motor locked up due to oil starvation on it's test drive last night. It hasn't fully locked up but the oil light came on during a freeway run (was out prior to that after a full flush), and before I made it to the off ramp it had that dreaded metal on metal squealing sound. So I'm assuming the motor is shot, with perhaps some salvageable parts. There is a local z6 which has 16k since rebuild (with receipts) and I have seen it in the car and running. Picking that up and starting the whole swap over again. Should go quicker this time though...learned a lot on that swap.