DIY painting car?
Solscud007
New Wagonist
hey guys. any of you paint your own cars? JDMshuttle I know you did.
any tips on how to remove the crappy stock paint? chemical or physical? like some paint stripper solution or jsut sand a butt load?
next what shoudl I use to prime it with? rustoleum good enough?
any tips on how to remove the crappy stock paint? chemical or physical? like some paint stripper solution or jsut sand a butt load?
next what shoudl I use to prime it with? rustoleum good enough?
Comments
the stock paint is actually pretty good. i certainly wouldn't take it down to bare metal unless you had to - rust or major dent repair being possible cases.
you should sand it really well with some coarse sandpaper (i usually use 80 grit or so at first) to rough the surface and ensure good paint adhesion. then, i like to lay a coat of sandable primer - brand doesn't really matter much, as i'll be sanding a lot of it off. gradually work this down with finer and finer grades of sandpaper. once it's smooth, i lay another coat of primer. lightly wet sand that with fine or very fine sandpaper to smooth it out.
then i pick a contrasting colour of primer (black to go onto grey or white primer, white to go onto black) and "spatter" it over the primed car - leaving a frosting or misting of droplets. now, i'll block-sand it. the combination of the contrasting spatter and rigid sanding block will reveal any high or low spots.
once high spots are worked down or low spots filled, i wet sand and re-prime. wet sand again (still with fine or very fine paper), and the car is now ready for colour.
colour, cure, compound, wash, colour, cure, compound, wash, colour cure, compound, wash, clear, cure, compound, wash, clear, cure, compound, wash, wax is the usual method i use for a colourcoat/clearcoat paint job. takes a while, but it's worth it.
when i painted the wagon i just coarse sanded it, primed, wet sanded it, and shot paint - but that was just a flat black enamel.
now there are spot on my car that has paint chips peeling right off the metal. how far out shoudl I sand that area to metal to eliminate that?
sand it down to the bare metal with some fine grain sand paper.
and put some clear over it for the time being unless you plan on repainting the whole car.
Well, I recently (August 2006) sanded and repainted my entire car with Armor Coat from Canadian Tire. It cost $8 a can and I applied it using a paintbrush.
I bought one of those pointy "mouse" sanders and 80 grit sandpaper and sanded off the clear coat to ensure proper ashesion. I then put 2-3 thin coats of Armor Coat on the car. The pain will "self-level" and look quite glossy.
It is certainly not a paint job I would show off at a car show but, then again, I'm not into that scene. I just want my car to look presentable.
The key to using paint-on rust paint is to do it in a garage and put on a couple of thin costs until you get good coverage... otherwise the pain runs and you have to start over.
I am currently repainting my 86 Mazda B2000 using the same technique and it's going great!! I'm using bright red this time and the truck is starting to look pretty spiffy !!
Here is a link to a recent picture of my car with the Armor Coat paint.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e78/l ... t06030.jpg
Have a looky:
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/sho ... art=1&vc=1
Pages 44 and up:
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/sho ... ost2655425
So is it Rustoleum :?:
How long do I wait b4 the next coat :?:
How long till I sand after rolling: ?:
The final sanding is @ 1,000 grit sand paper,but how fine do I go between coats :?:
this is what the guy said in his thred on the other forum
but yeah doesnt rutoleum have different kinds of paint? which one do we pick?
Look at the fender that is what it came out like with the gloss black.
I want to know which type of rustoleum paint. and where to get it? I jsut looked at home depot and they have like 10 different types of paint under rustoleum.
The Tremclad is what the first guy used, tremclad is basically the same thing as the Rustoleum Stops Rust.
The black is harder to roll on as you will see the mistakes a lot more in the black then you might in another color. It came out okay though. don't expect to roll on and roll out though. It takes some finishing work that is for sure.
So is it possible to have somebody else do all the prep work? I'd really like to do my own painting, but there is some minor rust on the body and fenders, and there might be some hidden rust that I can't see, so what I'd really like to do is have a body shop do all the de-rusting, bondo etc. and then give it back to me to paint.
Has anyone ever gone this route? Comments? Would it cost me that much less than having it painted by someone else? (I'm assuming a lot of what you pay pros to do comes down to the careful prep anyway ...)
Also has anybody read anything about mixing Rustoleum colors? What I would really like to do is mix a light blue with a silver to get that sparkly or pearlized look.
Jenny (wagoneer to be ... soon!)
Your best bet is to try and locate somebody local willing to do your bodywork on the side. Someone who has the experience necessary to insure that it is done right the first time. Hopefully they are willing to do it on the side, for cash( or beer), and for cheap.
As far as paint goes, your best bet there is to skip the experimenting yourself. Just pick a color from any car that takes your fancy, note the make, model & year. Then go down to your local auto paint supply and get some good quality stuff mixed with the OEM paint code for that vehicle.( should cost you between $75-200 for good paint) Maybe the same person will be willing to do the painting or maybe you wanna tackle it yourself with some painting equipment from Walmart
Good luck
Also the roll on paint job wasn't that bad but it will take some work after you rolled it on to get it looking decent. It will require some wet sanding and buffing. It leveled it self out rather nicely and wasn't all that bad. Definately didn't have to worry about spraying it and getting paint all over the place (they have big problems with you painting over here in Germany that is why I chose the roll on).
I am getting ready to do a Nissan truck with the same stuff.
Did I mention I'm also in grad school? So this is probably all a bit of a pipe dream, as I doubt I'll have time to do any of this before ... oh 2008 or so.
Jenny