K20 Swapped Wagovan Build. Ohio.
austinsb3639
New Wagonist
My Wagovan Build thread.
Background:
I currently own a K-Swapped EG hatch all done by me besides tuning. It is a K24 Bottom end with a K20 Head. It is great fun but so many people now have them that I wanted something different. I have always liked Wagons but have never owned one until now. I got this one in May of this year and started to work on it knowing the final outcome before I turned the first wrench. My other K swap is a blast but is not easy to drive on the street as it is full of torque and crazy so the track is its home. I will be reserving that car for track duty only. It will prob get turbo'd before long.
Here she is.
So on to the good stuff.
I have done one of these before and have learned some lessons along the way about the swap and this one will be OEM as possible and use parts that are proven to work well. On to the pictures.
I will be as detailed as possible but sometimes I don't have time to take pictures so sorry.
Here she is as she sits today.
Engine bay Shots after body work. I filled the low spots and welds and shaved the seam sealer down.
Passenger K series mount welded in and worked. I went with Innovative mounts. Have had great luck
with them and recommend them.
The rest of the mounts.
I chose an EP3 tranny for daily drivability and like the highway gear ratios. I have the 6 speed in my race car. The EP3 tranny had a grind so I rebuilt it with OEM syncros and parts.
Rear disc swap was a pain in the butski. Also went with stainless Earls Lines.
This is my Mock up motor for my wire tuck. I used a CRV harness and repinned it to a K20A spec harness. It takes forever but is worth the savings in money. I also did this for my other swap. I have to use the PRB Intake Manifold so it clears the hood.
This is the fresh motor I picked up for a steal. K20Z3 with less than 5000 Miles.
I Put ARP Headstuds in it and am waiting for a HybridRacing Tensioner and tons of other goodies to arrive.
I installed a new OEM headgasket and torqued down the headstuds to 80 ftlbs
I then installed the alternator relocation Kit from Karcepts and K20A2 waterpump. Great Kit. Comes with a belt and everything you need. Including OEM honda bolts.
I also got Traction Bars and bolted them in. These are also from Innovative.
I also got custom EF radiator from Griffin. Awesome piece, welds, and a dual core. It will keep this thing super cool on the hottest of days. It has bungs for Coolant temp switch and fan switch which I already installed.
I will be getting more parts this week and will update with progress.
It will hopefully go in for paint in 2 weeks.
Background:
I currently own a K-Swapped EG hatch all done by me besides tuning. It is a K24 Bottom end with a K20 Head. It is great fun but so many people now have them that I wanted something different. I have always liked Wagons but have never owned one until now. I got this one in May of this year and started to work on it knowing the final outcome before I turned the first wrench. My other K swap is a blast but is not easy to drive on the street as it is full of torque and crazy so the track is its home. I will be reserving that car for track duty only. It will prob get turbo'd before long.
Here she is.
So on to the good stuff.
I have done one of these before and have learned some lessons along the way about the swap and this one will be OEM as possible and use parts that are proven to work well. On to the pictures.
I will be as detailed as possible but sometimes I don't have time to take pictures so sorry.
Here she is as she sits today.
Engine bay Shots after body work. I filled the low spots and welds and shaved the seam sealer down.
Passenger K series mount welded in and worked. I went with Innovative mounts. Have had great luck
with them and recommend them.
The rest of the mounts.
I chose an EP3 tranny for daily drivability and like the highway gear ratios. I have the 6 speed in my race car. The EP3 tranny had a grind so I rebuilt it with OEM syncros and parts.
Rear disc swap was a pain in the butski. Also went with stainless Earls Lines.
This is my Mock up motor for my wire tuck. I used a CRV harness and repinned it to a K20A spec harness. It takes forever but is worth the savings in money. I also did this for my other swap. I have to use the PRB Intake Manifold so it clears the hood.
This is the fresh motor I picked up for a steal. K20Z3 with less than 5000 Miles.
I Put ARP Headstuds in it and am waiting for a HybridRacing Tensioner and tons of other goodies to arrive.
I installed a new OEM headgasket and torqued down the headstuds to 80 ftlbs
I then installed the alternator relocation Kit from Karcepts and K20A2 waterpump. Great Kit. Comes with a belt and everything you need. Including OEM honda bolts.
I also got Traction Bars and bolted them in. These are also from Innovative.
I also got custom EF radiator from Griffin. Awesome piece, welds, and a dual core. It will keep this thing super cool on the hottest of days. It has bungs for Coolant temp switch and fan switch which I already installed.
I will be getting more parts this week and will update with progress.
It will hopefully go in for paint in 2 weeks.
Comments
Look forward to progress!
to quit.
you said that u modified a crv harness to work with a k20a Ecu, now is that possible with a Z3 harness that I have?
Here are some pictures of the motor build:
Putting down some Assembly Lube (I recommend Red Line Lube it is really good stuff)(red stuff)
Placing the last cam cap.
Torquing the cam caps down:
A sneak peak of the Valve Cover: It is gonnna be sick:
My repinned harness. Not completely finished but it is left open for wire tuck.
Polished Timing Chain Cover:
Polished Starter installed:
A nice Hybrid Racing gift. Timing chain tensioner. Hello 9500RPMs
Thats all for now.
Th T-Bar Helps with Wheel Hop. The EF chassis comes stock with radius arms aka traction bars standard. The traction bars here are more for clearance than anything else. The stock front crossmember is too large to fit the alternator on the K series motor. This traction bar setup will help with hop but will mount the front LCA'S correctly as well and clear the Alternator. It basically keeps the wheels from moving forward and back if that makes sense. Thanks for the questions I will answer as many as I possibly can.
It is sort of possible. A lot of the harness is used but some is extra nd some is not used. DBW is the biggest concern. It is a direct swap for the K20A2 harness. If you wanna get rid of that z3 harness I would be interested. The harness is a pain in the butt to repin and at this point for 200 bux on k20a it might be worth the money for the harness. I would use the harness just for a writup as well as using it for some of the wires and connectors that I have that are a bit broken. Let me know.
Austin
nice job on the teardown/rebuild so far man! this will kick ass once it's done dude. you planning on keeping the OEM front or doing a swap? what wheels is it running?
Cheers
Austin
If you have any extra k20 or type s parts let me know because I have a few random parts that are missing from my swap.