Brake help

CharbCharb Administrator
in Suspension, Braking & Wheels
Installed a new booster and master cylinder today. Not as quick and easy as I thought. But it's hot out and I'm drinking beer instead of water, and that probably didn't speed up the process. Only shortened my patience.

I go to screw the lines back into the MC, and it's like they don't want to thread. Almost like they start to, but pop out.

I feared that being a bastard 88, possibly the threads were different. But I checked a few part #'s that weren't discontinued, and they are the same 88-91. The threads look the same, they are clean, and I lubed them with brake fluid (per manual).

I'm dehydrated and tired of working on Jane today. I did some searching and didn't find much help. Hoping some of our minds might have a trick to share. This is my first time doing this.

Thanks!

Comments

  • doitdubdoitdub familEE
    Yeah those lines can be a pain. Try pulling the line out a little bit where it connects to line up the threads better before tightening. Hard to explain, but since the lines bend a little and are under pressure, you need to relieve it a little.
  • CharbCharb Administrator
    I figure it's just my frustration of the day/weekend getting to me. I talked to evol911 and he said they're a bitch He spent more time on his then I have so far. After dinner and a shower I think I'm gonna play with them a bit more. Now that the sun's not blazing on me.
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    Those can be difficult. Sometimes the best thing is to walk away for awhile. Come back and it'll fall together.

    One trick: try 'backthreading' the fittings. Hold it against the hole as if you were starting it, but turn it CCW. You'll feel it 'click' when the leading edge of the thread drops in. THEN try to start it.

    The whole problem is just the angle of the dangle. Don't be afraid to bend the lines, they're steel.

    Even better, try this: Take the 2 mounting nuts off of the MC. Use the extra freedom of motion to start the lines, THEN bolt it back down.
  • JakerJaker familEE
    bam-bam wrote:
    Those can be difficult. Sometimes the best thing is to walk away for awhile. Come back and it'll fall together.

    One trick: try 'backthreading' the fittings. Hold it against the hole as if you were starting it, but turn it CCW. You'll feel it 'click' when the leading edge of the thread drops in. THEN try to start it.

    The whole problem is just the angle of the dangle. Don't be afraid to bend the lines, they're steel.

    Even better, try this: Take the 2 mounting nuts off of the MC. Use the extra freedom of motion to start the lines, THEN bolt it back down.


    Bam's got some really sound advice there. That's usually what I end up doing. I try the "back threading" a couple times, and if that doesn't get me anywhere in the 1st 5 minutes, I'll unbolt the MC from the booster.

    Don't hurt her Charb, she's served me well, and has many many good miles left in her for you.
  • CharbCharb Administrator
    Thanks guys, this is what I was looking for. Just seemed too simple, I underestimated it.

    My work schedule is tight tomorrow, but I'm gonna try to get to it. If not Thursday.
  • CharbCharb Administrator
    Definitely an exercise in Zen lol

    A buddy of mine, who's nickname is 'the Mad Scientist' stopped by to drop off some stuff I'm selling for him. He hopped on it and had them in and tight in under 5 minutes. So we bled the brakes and I'm ready for the road :)

    Pedal stiffness is immediately noticeable. I've got some other brake upgrades planned for later, which should add up to some nice stopping power overall.

    Thanks for everyone that chimed in!
  • doitdubdoitdub familEE
    Mad Scientist to the rescue!!
  • CharbCharb Administrator
    Ok, well all is not totally well. I think my mind is continuing to fuck with me.

    When the car is running, there is a slight squish (air noise as well) when I hit the pedal. Not a lot, but then it brakes hard.

    But the pedal is crazy stiff from the top when not running.

    I'm gonna go dig through my garbage (yay!) and look for my other vacuum line that I just threw away. Hoping maybe that has something to do with it...
  • CharbCharb Administrator
    Well, same situation when I swapped the vacuum line.

    Gonna re-bleed tomorrow. Suggestions still welcome!
  • doitdubdoitdub familEE
    Bleed, and re-bleed, my friend. Then bleed again.
  • MrLewayneMrLewayne Wagonist
    doitdub wrote:
    Bleed, and re-bleed, my friend. Then bleed again.
    I second this, anytime I've ever had any brake issues, its been because there is a bubble in the line. Be sure and bleed each brake line fully. Front driver's side and rear driver's side, and front passenger's side and rear passenger's side. This step would only be necessary if you have disc brakes in the front and rear. Hope you get it going! :D
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    When you changaed the master cylinder, did you replace the rubber washer where it sticks in the booster? Or possibly double it by mistake? That's a real common vacuum leak.
  • CharbCharb Administrator
    Well, put about 50 miles on her tonight after convincing myself I'm simply losing my mind. After driving a few different cars over the few days mine was down (not just MC), I think I just forgot how it braked before. And with the new stopping power, it just kinda threw me for a loop. I definitely hear a bit on the push when it's quiet. But I'll admit I can't hear it in traffic. And it stops great. Because I did play with it a bunch on my little trip.

    doitdub wrote:
    Bleed, and re-bleed, my friend. Then bleed again.

    Planning a re-bleed tomorrow to be safe. We thought we did a 'thorough' bleed. Ran almost 2 containers of fluid into the lines. Bleeding each until it ran clear (though it wasn't too bad before).

    bam-bam wrote:
    When you changed the master cylinder, did you replace the rubber washer where it sticks in the booster? Or possibly double it by mistake? That's a real common vacuum leak.

    I did actually reuse the one I had. It seemed to be in good condition. Though it did occur to me that it still might need changing. The one I purchased didn't come with one. I'll see how things go over the next day or two. Might just change it to be safe?

    ps- forgot to mention it's a 15/16 MC.... if it matters
  • FakeJDMEF8FakeJDMEF8 Senior Wagonist
    OK, 15/16" MC...is it the EX, the accord lxi one from 87 or is it from a del sol? the del sol uses a 15/16", looks exactly the same, but uses different sizes on both lines....

    same with the 1" type r (non abs)....

    when i got my lines refitted for the 1" DC2, the guy suggested i rebend the line by caressing and slightly forming it back into shape with my thump to not cause a bend. he said that would create some bleeding isues. maybe check and see if anywhere along the lines they are creased....

    brake bleeding/refitting is a bitch.
  • JakerJaker familEE
    EX.
  • austinsb3639austinsb3639 New Wagonist
    Sounds like it could be a leaky booster.
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