DOHC ZC Code 9, I've tried it all and still not right
woodi
Wagonist
I just swapped a dohc zc into my 89 wagon. Swap went pretty well except I just can't get the thing running right now that it's in the car. I've had a topic going over on thezcr.com (http://www.thezcr.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23953) on the issue since I figured that'd be the place for topics like this but am still not getting anywhere.
The engine starts but runs rough and is a bit smokey. It's been throwing code 9 since I put it in. I've checked the sensor and it reads around 950 ohms at the plug and at the ecu. Here's a picture of how my cam timing is setup with the single mark on the crank pulley lined up with the sight on the timing cover.
I've tried moving it a tooth in either direction on both the intake and exhaust cams but I still can't get rid of the code. It seems to run best with the intake cam advanced one tooth but it still is pretty rough and throwing code 9. I've checked compression and it reads 170-180psi in all cylinders.
I originally had high idle which I'm pretty sure was the fault of the eacv because it got better after I cleaned it. In the process of trying to figure the high idle out though I replace the PCV, all vacuum hoses, and dizzy cap (it had a small crack).
It is pretty hard to start and idle is really low and rough. At the timing pictured above it'll idle around 400 if it doesn't just die. Advanced one tooth it idles at 750 but rough. It seems to me like my timing is way off but I can't figure out what would be causing it.
Any ideas? This is driving me crazy.
The engine starts but runs rough and is a bit smokey. It's been throwing code 9 since I put it in. I've checked the sensor and it reads around 950 ohms at the plug and at the ecu. Here's a picture of how my cam timing is setup with the single mark on the crank pulley lined up with the sight on the timing cover.
I've tried moving it a tooth in either direction on both the intake and exhaust cams but I still can't get rid of the code. It seems to run best with the intake cam advanced one tooth but it still is pretty rough and throwing code 9. I've checked compression and it reads 170-180psi in all cylinders.
I originally had high idle which I'm pretty sure was the fault of the eacv because it got better after I cleaned it. In the process of trying to figure the high idle out though I replace the PCV, all vacuum hoses, and dizzy cap (it had a small crack).
It is pretty hard to start and idle is really low and rough. At the timing pictured above it'll idle around 400 if it doesn't just die. Advanced one tooth it idles at 750 but rough. It seems to me like my timing is way off but I can't figure out what would be causing it.
Any ideas? This is driving me crazy.
Comments
Dtc 9 is cyp, cylinder 1 sensor, its on the exhaust cam, I've bought a few of those in my time, around $150 from acura, 88/89 integra part... timing belt never threw that code at me being retarded or advanced. Try flipping your wires to the sensor, worth a shot.
Anyways, hope this helps
If its obd0 zc cyp 1 sensor is not in the dizzy, it's in the part that hooks up to the exhaust cam, next to the dizzy...
Yeah I realize that. The original one I had the wires were pretty chewed up coming out of it so I picked up another used one and am using that. I have the same problem with both sensors.
The two wires that are seperate coming out of the dizzy I believe are blue and black (just going from memory) Those were broken and I had to do a little interesting wiring to get them back together (they run around the outside of the housing and go in on the otherside as the rest of the wires). Could a problem with them have any relation to this?
From what people were saying I was thinking that maybe if one of the sensors in the dizzy were bad it would be registering out of sync with the cyp 1 sensor and the computer would "believe" the sensor within the distributor and say that the signal coming from the cyp 1 was bad when actually the other sensor was wrong. Just a theory. I'm grasping at straws here.
My timing seems really screwed up at this point and unless the marks on my crank pulley are wrong I'm pretty sure my cam timing is exactly where it should be.
Honda's obd0 is pretty strait up... you have 1 code, that's most likely the problem.
The only sensors that throw codes that may not be related would be the o2.
By all means it sounds like you may need a new dizzy,
But anything bad with the sensors inside it have their own personal code.
have you checked the wiring between the sensor and ecu?
Yeah...sorry that wasn't clear. That's what I meant by at the ecu. I unplugged the harness from the ecu and tested the resistance across pins c1 and c2 (blue/yellow and blue/green). It came out to about 960 ohms. I then tested continuity of each pin to ground and got nothing. I have also tried swapping the pins in the plug at the sensor in case I somehow got them spliced backwards.
I owe you a beer...or 6 sir. I'm about a month into trying to get this straitened out and that did the trick. No more cel and fires right up.
I still am idling around 2500 rpms and blowing a bit of blue smoke. I need to figure that out. But the cel and hard starting and stumbling are gone. I have redone all my vacuum lines and replaced my pcv. Idle drops from 2500 to a wavery 1500 when EACV is unplugged. I've tried two different eacv's with the same result. The same goes for the map sensor and solenoid assembly. Any ideas on that part? I'm getting so close I just want to drive the thing.
If the timing looks funny: take off your upper timing belt cover, set the engine to TDC by rotating the crank pulley with a wrench until the two lines on the cam sprockets point towards each other and are parallel to the cylinder head, then check the TDC mark on the crankshaft pulley and make sure it's lining up perfectly too. If it's not, then you need to go ahead and start removing stuff to get back down to where the timing belt wraps around the crankshaft - no need to undo the engine mount this time since you won't need to completely remove the belt. It's not a whole lot of fun but you need to secure the timing belt to cam sprockets at TDC to keep them in time, and remove the crank pulley (from now on referred to as CSP). Remove the lower timing cover, loosen the belt tensioner, and slip the belt off of the crankshaft. Reinstall lower timing cover and CSP (not to full torque), and rotate the crankshaft until the TDC notch (it's a bit to the right of the small group of 3 used to set the timing, it is sometimes painted white) lines up perfectly with the notch and pointer on the lower timing cover. Take off the CSP and lower timing cover, and reinstall the timing belt. Try to make sure that any slack is on the intake side of the belt's path, not the side towards the front of the car. Reinstall lower timing cover and CSP, then rotate the engine 3 full revolutions counter-clockwise using a wrench on the CSP to turn it. Keep turning counter clockwise until the TDC marks on the cam sprockets line up, then check to make sure that the TDC notch on the CSP also lines up with the notch and pointer on the lower timing cover. Make sure the timing cover is installed properly or it could give a false reading.
Just FYI for anyone who reads this, if the notch you are trying to line up on the crank pulley is jumping around pretty severely when trying to check your timing (before loosening the bolts on the distributor to try and set the timing), then most likely the bearing is failing in your distributor. The overheating of the distr. components caused by the failing bearing causes some glue to melt away, and allows the coils on the magnetic sensor pickups to jump around on their posts. Eventually they will either fray a wire, give you a headache, or destroy themselves by contacting the distr. shaft.
This link <CLICK ME> helped me tremendously.
Essentially a bolt in with a few wiring changes. I did mine in a long weekend.
Otherwise (like OBD1 DOHC ZC or an SOCH ZC or any of above going into MPFI wagon) I can't help.