ZC into 4th Gen Wagon Information
Haydz
Moderator
The DOHC ZC swap is fairly easy. I know it looks difficult when you first look at it, but its really not. We're here to help so fire away with any questions you may have after reading this.
Engine Mounts:
All EF/EE/EY D-Series engine mounts are the same (dependant on transmission choice), therefore the DOHC ZC bolts right on in without any welding or chassis modification. It is reccommended that you install new engine mount bushings when you do the swap, but its not necissary unless they are damaged.
-50840-SH3-000 :: MOUNTING ASSY., FR. STOPPER (MT)
-50810-SH3-040 :: RUBBER ASSY., RR. ENGINE MOUNTING (MT)
-50821-SH3-040 :: RUBBER, ENGINE SIDE MOUNTING (MT & AT)
-50805-SH9-020 :: RUBBER, TRANSMISSION MOUNTING (MT)
-50840-SH3-981 :: MOUNTING ASSY., FR. STOPPER (AT)
-50810-SH3-985 :: RUBBER ASSY., RR. ENGINE MOUNTING (AT)
-50805-SH3-983 :: RUBBER, TRANSMISSION MOUNTING (AT)
Shift Linkage:
The standard shift linkage for both 4WD and FWD will connect up without modification if you are using the stock transmission. It is reccommended that you acquire new shifter bushings to ensure a smooth and easy shift.
Its a good time to get a short-shift kit if you own a FWD. Short-shift kits are not available for the RT4WD as it uses cable shifters.
-RT4WD
-FWD
Exhust Manifold:
4-1:The exhust manifold off a SOHC D-Series will bolt up to the DOHC ZC but the ports will not be matched correctly. Some people have also needed to grind a corner off the manifold to get it to bolt right up to the head. An aftermarket 4-1 header will work.
4-2-1: The DOHC ZC Exhust manifold (1st and 2nd piece) will work without problems on the FWD however, for the 4WD you will need to use the SOHC Manifold with ports matched OR you could use the standard DOHC ZC 4-2 header (1st half) and the standard SOHC ZC 2-1 collector (2nd half), in order to clear the sump/oil pan and transfer case but still retain the 4-2-1 configuration.
Transmission:
Always use genuine Honda Manual Transmission Fluid or Automatic Transmission Fluid.
-You will need to retain the flywheel and clutch kit that suits your gearbox choice
-For the RT4WD, use the RT4WD flywheel, clutch kit, intermediate shaft and cover plate (for between the gearbox and motor)
-
-
Power Steering:
Use the power steering pump for the DOHC ZC. This will bolt up to your current power steering fittings. Remember to use genuine Honda Power Steering Fluid.
-
-
Electronics & Engine Accessories:
Its a good time to check all your sensors and replace any damaged or faulty ones.
-If your Wagon is DPFI then you will need to do a DPFI -> MPFI conversion.
-You can use either your stock alternator OR the DOHC ZC alternator
-Use the DOHC ZC engine wiring harness
-Use the DOHC ZC MAP Sensor
Hoses:
-19502-PM4-J01 :: Lower Radiator Hose
-19501-PD2-000 :: Upper Radiator Hose (North America)
-XXXXX-XXX-XXX :: Upper Radiator Hose (Outside North America)
-= In Progress =-
Engine Mounts:
All EF/EE/EY D-Series engine mounts are the same (dependant on transmission choice), therefore the DOHC ZC bolts right on in without any welding or chassis modification. It is reccommended that you install new engine mount bushings when you do the swap, but its not necissary unless they are damaged.
-50840-SH3-000 :: MOUNTING ASSY., FR. STOPPER (MT)
-50810-SH3-040 :: RUBBER ASSY., RR. ENGINE MOUNTING (MT)
-50821-SH3-040 :: RUBBER, ENGINE SIDE MOUNTING (MT & AT)
-50805-SH9-020 :: RUBBER, TRANSMISSION MOUNTING (MT)
-50840-SH3-981 :: MOUNTING ASSY., FR. STOPPER (AT)
-50810-SH3-985 :: RUBBER ASSY., RR. ENGINE MOUNTING (AT)
-50805-SH3-983 :: RUBBER, TRANSMISSION MOUNTING (AT)
Shift Linkage:
The standard shift linkage for both 4WD and FWD will connect up without modification if you are using the stock transmission. It is reccommended that you acquire new shifter bushings to ensure a smooth and easy shift.
Its a good time to get a short-shift kit if you own a FWD. Short-shift kits are not available for the RT4WD as it uses cable shifters.
-RT4WD
-FWD
Exhust Manifold:
4-1:The exhust manifold off a SOHC D-Series will bolt up to the DOHC ZC but the ports will not be matched correctly. Some people have also needed to grind a corner off the manifold to get it to bolt right up to the head. An aftermarket 4-1 header will work.
4-2-1: The DOHC ZC Exhust manifold (1st and 2nd piece) will work without problems on the FWD however, for the 4WD you will need to use the SOHC Manifold with ports matched OR you could use the standard DOHC ZC 4-2 header (1st half) and the standard SOHC ZC 2-1 collector (2nd half), in order to clear the sump/oil pan and transfer case but still retain the 4-2-1 configuration.
Transmission:
Always use genuine Honda Manual Transmission Fluid or Automatic Transmission Fluid.
-You will need to retain the flywheel and clutch kit that suits your gearbox choice
-For the RT4WD, use the RT4WD flywheel, clutch kit, intermediate shaft and cover plate (for between the gearbox and motor)
-
-
Power Steering:
Use the power steering pump for the DOHC ZC. This will bolt up to your current power steering fittings. Remember to use genuine Honda Power Steering Fluid.
-
-
Electronics & Engine Accessories:
Its a good time to check all your sensors and replace any damaged or faulty ones.
-If your Wagon is DPFI then you will need to do a DPFI -> MPFI conversion.
-You can use either your stock alternator OR the DOHC ZC alternator
-Use the DOHC ZC engine wiring harness
-Use the DOHC ZC MAP Sensor
Hoses:
-19502-PM4-J01 :: Lower Radiator Hose
-19501-PD2-000 :: Upper Radiator Hose (North America)
-XXXXX-XXX-XXX :: Upper Radiator Hose (Outside North America)
-= In Progress =-
Comments
I've had them side by side. The differences are minor and with some effort, you might be able to make interchangeable. As I recall, the main difference was the length of splines on one end and placement of collar on the other. Bolt pattern was the same, or pretty damn close though.
Use your stock 4wd int shaft. I'm like 95% sure it will bolt to a zc block and you already know the other end fits your tranny.
Can anyone else confirm?
http://www.hondacivicwagon.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=957
might find this info helpful, then again this wasn't talking about the RT 4WD...
There are several options here.
-If your engine came with a complete exhaust manifold (header and downpipe), you can use it, of course. It’s a pretty good design, but heavier than aftermarket.
-If your engine came with a stock 4-2 header, you can get a 92-95 Civic EX downpipe. It will mate up, but may hang alittle low.
-If your swap didn’t include a header, you can use your stock D15/D16 header, but it will need to be ported to match the ZC exhaust ports. Use an 88 Integra exhaust gasket as a template. However, I would recommend upgrading to a proper 4-2-1 style setup, whether it be aftermarket, or pieced together from a stock ZC header and 94-95 Civic EX downpipe.
-If you want to upgrade, you can use an aftermarket header for an 88 Integra.
Unless you are getting a tune with an aftermarket device i would say stick with the ECU that matches your engine i.e. a PM6 for a SOHC ZC/D16A6 and a PM7 for a DOHC ZC.
Theres a mini-me thread on here somewhere, have a search around you should be able to find it.
Im gonna keep my eye out for a full ZC swap. I guess motor and tranny and what else do I need? ECU and wiring harness according to this thread. is that it? jsut plug and play?
As my stock exhaust pipe is utter garbage I was gonna get someone to fab up a straight pipe and weld any old muffler to the back. so im not worried about the exhaust mating up.
yes, you can. most engine swaps usually include the tranny with the longblock.
you will need a PM7 ecu, wiring harness from the ZC or an Si, and you will have to perform a DPFI -> MPFI swap. http://fourthgenhatch.net/mpfi.html as for the actual engine itself you can use the stock motor mounts and shift linkage. if you need more help or info check this link as well: http://fourthgenhatch.net/zc.html .
good to see you back here Solscud007!!
Thanks. That helps a lot. I look forward to working on this, this summer.
give me a buzz: Ant..718-715-9226
henrystyle1@verizon.net
It's been altered to route around the sump/gearbox and mate up with the zorst in the stock location.
Shipping to USA likely to be pricy but it's for sale.
It's one from ebay I believe, with heat wrap.