Suspension spacers to raise car - Completed!! Lots of pics

Guys - I have a small problem I've been working on for a while. This summer when I go to Dune Fest in Aug I have to get my wagon and my trailer out into the sand to camp (we're not allowed to park in the parking lots if we are camping overnight). My wagon is lowered at least ~3 inches give or take. This obviously causes a little bit of a problem when trying to get through the sand. Now granted I have coilovers and could easily just raise the car. Since they are shorter struts I'm not sure they will go high enough. So I had an idea. What if I could space the struts up temporarily for the trip then remove the spacers when I get back. This would elimiate 2 things - 1 save me from having to re-level the car and 2 the car wouldn't need an alignment cause the coilovers haven't been touched. I've been working on a simple design in my head that would only add 1 bolt per strut and I could raise the car easily and quickly. See pic:

On the front I would get 2 different size high grade steel pipes - the smaller of the two would slide into the front forks and have the factory bolt secure it. The larger pipe would be welded to the top of the smaller one and the strut will slide into it. I would most likely weld something like what the fork has to squeeze the pipe together and hold the strut in place - whalla - instant raise - no adjustments.

The rear is quite simple, just another "C" style bracket with a heavy duty steel tube welded to the top for the strut bolt. The tube has to go the opposite direction so the spacer doesn't just fall over. So the strut will have to be turned 90 degrees (no biggie).

Do you guys think I would have any problems with this setup if done right?

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Comments

  • NZ-DB8RNZ-DB8R Moderator
    You could just use the Coilovers to raise it?
    Just measure from a common point on the shock somewhere to the bottom spring perch, note all measurements.
    Then wind the coilover up the same amount and all 4 corners and measure from that same point to check each corner has gone up the same amount.

    When your done, wind them back down to the original point, wont need an alignment as its straight back where it was to start with and you wont have changed anything else
  • JakerJaker familEE
    However, with either configuration, your alignment will be substantially altered for the duration of the "raising". The movement of the suspension arms is what will cause your alignment to go out, not the act of raising and lowering the shocks.

    No matter how you cut it, the alignment's going to be out if you raise the car.
  • stampernstampern Senior Wagonist
    I know I can raise the car with the coilovers - this is only a temporary raise while I'm at the dunes. I won't be driving it like this. I honestly don't think my skunk2 struts will expand enough to get the car as high as I want. I'm wanting something simple that I can just bolt on, then unbolt before I leave the parking lot and have the alignment as close as possible before I raised it.
  • JakerJaker familEE
    The front idea looks good. I'm just not sure on the loading for the rear spacer. You'd be relying on the strength of the bolt itself to carry the full load of the shock/spring forces. Otherwise, it actually sounds like a "sound" idea.
  • NZ-DB8RNZ-DB8R Moderator
    Jaker wrote:
    However, with either configuration, your alignment will be substantially altered for the duration of the "raising". The movement of the suspension arms is what will cause your alignment to go out, not the act of raising and lowering the shocks.

    No matter how you cut it, the alignment's going to be out if you raise the car.

    I may well be wrong here, but to me the only alignment change you should get when changing the height is camber.

    Ive lowered a few cars and not had an alignment straight away, when it has gone for an alignment the only measurement that has been out has been the camber (obviously due to the height change) is this just dumb luck? or do I have skills so secret I dont know about them? :lol:
  • JakerJaker familEE
    The toe, both front and rear will be affected by changes in ride height.
  • NZ-DB8RNZ-DB8R Moderator
    Hmm, maybe my toe was out before I had lowered the car, but its always been in spec after lowering when ive done it. Who knows, must have been luck rather than skill ahaha.
    I dont guess alignment will matter too much if your driving on sand for a short distance anyway.
  • Use a spacer on the top hat between the body and top hat. Then use longer studs in the top hat to extend through both so you can bolt them down. Done deal. :D
  • 3rd4ce3rd4ce Council Member
    Use a spacer on the top hat between the body and top hat. Then use longer studs in the top hat to extend through both so you can bolt them down. Done deal. :D

    ive been looking to do this on my RT4wd...
    but I need to find someone that can make this 121.jpg
  • AlphaxomegaAlphaxomega Senior Wagonist
    all you need is a drill press and some metal bam.
  • ScallyWagScallyWag Wagonist
    I just want permanent lift.... thinking either up-side down tophats(?) or hockey puck method(?).... though a proper DA (?)spring/strut swap is probably just as easy and much more mechanically "sound".... I do enjoy hopping curbs and driving horse trails, even at stock height :D
  • 3rd4ce3rd4ce Council Member
    all you need is a drill press and some metal bam.

    wow thats all.... U make it sound simple... but I dont know anyone with a drill press or where to get the materials to make a pair for the front.. gonna swap the rear with a DA ( hoping for the 2 inch or more )
  • AlphaxomegaAlphaxomega Senior Wagonist
    XD i thought alot of the guys on this forum had machines to do this so i thought it would be simple lol.
    i used to do this for cheap raising on a truck for my uncle. but we sold the drill press and the metal cutter machines.
    so yeah....Good luck lol
  • turbo_tegturbo_teg Council Member
    3rd4ce wrote:
    Use a spacer on the top hat between the body and top hat. Then use longer studs in the top hat to extend through both so you can bolt them down. Done deal. :D

    ive been looking to do this on my RT4wd...
    but I need to find someone that can make this 121.jpg


    this is how a lot of the new toyotas are lifted.....
  • stampernstampern Senior Wagonist
    I'm in the process of building mine right now. Should hopefully have it done this week. My reasoning for putting them on the bottom of the strut is because I want to make them easy to install and remove. I only want my wagon raised when I'm going to be going offroad or into the sand where clearance is an issue. Since I have skunk2 full sleeve coilovers and it's lowered quite a bit, I don't really want to build a 2.5 inch top hat spacer - way to spendy IMO. right now I have about $23 in materials which is cheap.
  • stampernstampern Senior Wagonist
    Well, here is the start of my spacers. I quite a few more hours of work to do, but should hopefully have them done this week. I ended up having to run the tubes through a lathe to get them the right diameters to fit over and into the struts.

    What do you guys think?

  • CharbCharb Administrator
    Awesome.

    Glad to see someone that's not just blowing their pipe dreams in our face, but rather going to the garage and getting shit done!
  • stampernstampern Senior Wagonist
    Ya, I'm hoping they work. So far the design seems sound. I'm hoping they work the way I hope. It will allow almost anybody to run stiffer shorter aftermarket struts and still be able to have full height.
  • stampernstampern Senior Wagonist
    Here are some pics of the completed product. I have not tested yet - planning on doing that next week.

  • stampernstampern Senior Wagonist
  • 3rd4ce3rd4ce Council Member
    Stampern....
    that looks like it belongs on there.... :!:
    like your tow hitch..... :shock:

    :arrow: Man I would LOVE to see pix of your ride height differences .....
  • stampernstampern Senior Wagonist
    I will take pics of the difference next week. I'm gonna be moving next week into a new place and I'm going to test these while pulling the trailer loaded down with stuff.
  • JakerJaker familEE
    I think the fronts turned out great. That looks like a really sound design. I'm a bit concerned about the rear though. I think you're going to be faced with some interesting bending moments down at the bottom of your shocks. Not sure how the shocks will handle those forces. Good luck!
  • stampernstampern Senior Wagonist
    What kind of bending are you thinking might happen? Do you mean the metal flexing? Or like binding so the strut doesn't compress straight?
  • JakerJaker familEE
    I'm concerned about the forces that will try and twist the bottom of the strut which as you mention could lead to the strut binding, or maybe even tweaking the bottom of the strut itself. I could be totaly off base here, but I'm weary none-the-less.
  • JP PatchesJP Patches Band Wagon
    pictures on the car?
  • stampernstampern Senior Wagonist
    Sorry I haven't updated this thread in a while. Since I had aftermarket struts/coilovers on my wagon, it basically just put it back to stock height. The front spaces worked perfectly - no issues - ran them for about 2 months on the wagon as a daily. The rears I have yet to test. Was able to get some of the fabrication done before I left on my trip and my rear coilovers I was able to adjust high enough to match the front. I need to find a way to test the rear here soon, cause I believe a couple of you guys here are interested in something like this.
  • i'd be interested if it was durable enough to withstand some abuse....im really liking those spacers on the top of the strut....are those actually avialable somewhere or is someone making them?
  • stampernstampern Senior Wagonist
    I don't know anybody that is making the top ones. I know the front ones I made are more than durable. I need somebody to test the rears and see how they do. I might have to do something different with them. But I think they will work they way I have them. Won't know without some testing.
  • Looking through the thread, I share Jaker's concerns with the rear.

    With the way you designed the rear spacer, the spacer is allowed to rotate in 2-axis, something the original design doesn't account for.

    The front is an interesting design, but I think the spacers on top is a more sound design as it spreads the load much better.

    Though, as it's pictured above, I'm not all that excited about. With that much material, instead of extending the length of the stud, I would make offset holes with another set of studs, much like the wheel spacers pictured below:

    96.jpg
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