...trying to get into gear(engine on )makes the car want to move.
Please clarify? :?
Separate issue:Engine off.If you push the clutch pedal down.How far does the pedal go down b4 you get a heavier resistance :?:
With the engine on and in neutral, I press the clutch pedal and try to shift into first. As I try to go into first, it feels like the car wants to move forward.
With the engine off, and I push the clutch pedal down, I'll get resistance about an inch or so into the motion?
That free-travel at the top of the clutch stroke is about right. It could be a little less. I adjust these clutches by feeling the travel of the release arm while adjusting the cable nut. You should only have about 1/8" of motion before you feel the release bearing contacting the pressure plate diaphragm springs. Another gauge is the locking 'nub' on the rubber washer piece under the adjusting nut: pull up on the cable with one hand. With the other hand, run the adjuster down until the bottom surface of the nut hits the top of that nub. That way will also net about the right free-travel.
For testing purposes, try adjusting the cable to zero free-travel.(Never leave it this way, it will eat a release bearing quickly.) Just tighten up the cable as tight as you can, then see if the clutch releases. Have a helper work the clutch while you watch the arm at the transmission to see if it's moving as it should (someone jump in here with a distance of arm travel). If the pedal and the cable are doing their thing, then you'll have to drop the tranny to see what's up.
:idea: knowing your car's oxidation history, check where the cable enters the firewall to be sure it's not soft there.
From your earliest posts about a "whirring" noise, I suspect that it's internal anyway, you just want to be SURE before you jump into the big stuff- Occam's Razor and all that...
My suspicion is that the clutch disc hub is failing and has a bit of spring or some such hanging up in there. Too bad you're not close, we could throw a clutch in there this afternoon.
Thanks Bam! I have adjusted it to zero free play and still no release. Pedal also looks fine. I wish I was closer as well. I don't know if I could do this in my driveway without a lift or an engine hoist although from what I've read, these aren't really necessary right? We'll have to see... funds (or a lack thereof) might force me to do this myself.
I pull the transmissions out on my chest- they're not that heavy and it's FAR easier to maneuver in and out of there without a jack in the way.
Obligatory Disclaimer:
Anyone trying this should be very careful... i'm sure Bam is big enough to be able to support most of the weight with his arms, and is not indicating that you should just let it fall directly on you. The D series trannies aren't as big and heavy as other transmissions, but they can still hurt you
I've had a posting up somewhere around here.Clutch can be done w/o engine removal.With 2 jack stands,floor jack & reg. tools I did it from underneath by myself during a cold winter(left coast winter).
UPDATE: Absolutely nothing has been done. Wagon still sits in the driveway. Mechanic friend picked up a clutch "off the street" and I'm thinking it won't have the proper TO bearing. Hasn't come by to pick up the wagon though as he's too busy with legit business. This whole scenario reminds me of the last time I needed clutch work. Same mechanic friend, almost the same time of year too. I'm getting a pretty big refund so I'm thinking of going with the local honda friendly shop. Doing it myself without any help seems like trouble... unless someone wants to come to the Poconos...heck, I'll even feed ya and buy you beer!
How mechanically inclined are you? It's really not that hard of a job, I think it's easier without a hoist. As a first timer, it might take you a week or so to get it all done, assuming you don't have all day everyday to work on it. But it CAN be done by one person in just a couple hours if they have all the right tools and know exactly what they're doing.
How mechanically inclined are you? It's really not that hard of a job, I think it's easier without a hoist. As a first timer, it might take you a week or so to get it all done, assuming you don't have all day everyday to work on it. But it CAN be done by one person in just a couple hours if they have all the right tools and know exactly what they're doing.
I guess I'm pretty mechanically inclined. I just don't want to F things up. My dad can help as well but like you said, it's all about free time, which, with 5 boys and a travel soccer schedule like you wouldn't believe, is hard to come by these days.
I'll figure something out and the wagon will be bsck on the road!
So I spoke to the local shop and they are willing to do my car for $450 as long as it's just a TO bearing thing. I just need to supply the TO bearing. Should I have the clutch done as well even though it was done a little more than a year ago? I could try to get the one my dad's mech friend bought off the street. Are aftermarket TO bearings like at NAPA or Autozone good or should I go with an OEM one which my local Honda dealer should carry right? I don't have the time to do it myself and I'd really like to get this car on the road by Friday (gotta drive to Stafford, VA for a soccer tournament.) Anyways, is that an okay price? Does anyone have TO bearing parts numbers for a 91 RT4WD) for the parts stores? Thanks!
So I spoke to the local shop and they are willing to do my car for $450 as long as it's just a TO bearing thing. I just need to supply the TO bearing. Should I have the clutch done as well even though it was done a little more than a year ago? I could try to get the one my dad's mech friend bought off the street. Are aftermarket TO bearings like at NAPA or Autozone good or should I go with an OEM one which my local Honda dealer should carry right? I don't have the time to do it myself and I'd really like to get this car on the road by Friday (gotta drive to Stafford, VA for a soccer tournament.) Anyways, is that an okay price? Does anyone have TO bearing parts numbers for a 91 RT4WD) for the parts stores? Thanks!
Is that $450 for labor only? If so, that's pretty steep. I would look elsewhere if that's the case. As far as parts go, I'm sure most people would agree that OEM parts are best. Personally, I would not recommend using Autozone/NAPA type parts as their quality can be questionable. As an alternative, I recently replaced the clutch on my wife's wagon and used a clutch kit from Clutch City Online(Ebay). They sell clutch kits made by Daiken, which is the OEM supplier for Honda clutches. I paid about $107 shipped for the complete kit which includes: clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bearing and clutch alignment tool. This is the same kit you would buy at the dealer for less then half the price just because it doesn't come in a Honda box. I would also recommend using Honda High Temp "urea"
grease to thoroughly coat the surface that the release bearing slides on. I've tried using other types of grease on previous clutch jobs and quickly realized that the Honda stuff works the best.
Looks like I'll be sending the wagon to the shop this week once I purchase and receive the clutch kit from Clutch City this week. l'll still only be charged $450 though which I believe to be a fair price. Good bye Geo Prizm and Cutlass Ciera. Hello wagon!
Comments
Please clarify? :?
Separate issue:Engine off.If you push the clutch pedal down.How far does the pedal go down b4 you get a heavier resistance :?:
With the engine on and in neutral, I press the clutch pedal and try to shift into first. As I try to go into first, it feels like the car wants to move forward.
With the engine off, and I push the clutch pedal down, I'll get resistance about an inch or so into the motion?
For testing purposes, try adjusting the cable to zero free-travel.(Never leave it this way, it will eat a release bearing quickly.) Just tighten up the cable as tight as you can, then see if the clutch releases. Have a helper work the clutch while you watch the arm at the transmission to see if it's moving as it should (someone jump in here with a distance of arm travel). If the pedal and the cable are doing their thing, then you'll have to drop the tranny to see what's up.
:idea: knowing your car's oxidation history, check where the cable enters the firewall to be sure it's not soft there.
From your earliest posts about a "whirring" noise, I suspect that it's internal anyway, you just want to be SURE before you jump into the big stuff- Occam's Razor and all that...
My suspicion is that the clutch disc hub is failing and has a bit of spring or some such hanging up in there. Too bad you're not close, we could throw a clutch in there this afternoon.
Obligatory Disclaimer:
Anyone trying this should be very careful... i'm sure Bam is big enough to be able to support most of the weight with his arms, and is not indicating that you should just let it fall directly on you. The D series trannies aren't as big and heavy as other transmissions, but they can still hurt you
Just in case
I guess I'm pretty mechanically inclined. I just don't want to F things up. My dad can help as well but like you said, it's all about free time, which, with 5 boys and a travel soccer schedule like you wouldn't believe, is hard to come by these days.
I'll figure something out and the wagon will be bsck on the road!
Is that $450 for labor only? If so, that's pretty steep. I would look elsewhere if that's the case. As far as parts go, I'm sure most people would agree that OEM parts are best. Personally, I would not recommend using Autozone/NAPA type parts as their quality can be questionable. As an alternative, I recently replaced the clutch on my wife's wagon and used a clutch kit from Clutch City Online(Ebay). They sell clutch kits made by Daiken, which is the OEM supplier for Honda clutches. I paid about $107 shipped for the complete kit which includes: clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bearing and clutch alignment tool. This is the same kit you would buy at the dealer for less then half the price just because it doesn't come in a Honda box. I would also recommend using Honda High Temp "urea"
grease to thoroughly coat the surface that the release bearing slides on. I've tried using other types of grease on previous clutch jobs and quickly realized that the Honda stuff works the best.