Welded drive shaft?

realtimefunrealtimefun Senior Wagonist
in Engine & Drivetrain
i been lookin for a few hours and i all i end up comein acros is jakers CF one i want to mod my stock drive shaft to remove the coupler.

been done? any advise?

Comments

  • turbo_tegturbo_teg Council Member
    this is where u weld it up. i always wanted to try it with my old wagon just never had the balls.... be sure u can find a spare if u dont like it.

    weldedwagoncoupler.jpg
  • realtimefunrealtimefun Senior Wagonist
    humm i am going to try and if i dont like it i am going to remove the drive shaft and send it to fleet pride to have it rear tubed with out the coupler
  • kylerwhokylerwho Wagonist
    that looks like some sketchy welding done on that..
  • turbo_tegturbo_teg Council Member
    wasn't my weld.
  • Tatty90EE4Tatty90EE4 Wagonist
    could this potentially be why my rears don't get any power. Maybe the coupler is spinning inside itself and not "catching" for the rear driveline to spin it??
  • broodybroody New Wagonist
    But if we weld the coupler we have to open it or something? I don't really know how it works, but if it "spins inside"?
  • Tatty90EE4Tatty90EE4 Wagonist
    I'm not completely sure how the whole propeller shaft works (front to rear driveline).

    Anybody with knowledge on these, please fill us in.

    Thanks.
  • turbo_tegturbo_teg Council Member
    Thats a pic another memeber sent me like 2 years ago after i asked about how to weld it together. he did it for autocrossing his car but i cant remember who it was.....
  • Tatty90EE4Tatty90EE4 Wagonist
    Is the part, that I circled in red, the viscous coupler? And how exactly does it work?

    197.jpg
    turbo_teg wrote:
    Thats a pic another memeber sent me like 2 years ago after i asked about how to weld it together. he did it for autocrossing his car but i cant remember who it was.....

    Do you recall doing this worked well?
    I'm wondering if this is why my 4wd doesn't work??
  • nominousnominous familEE
    There is a picture somewhere but I cannot find it at present.
    Essentially two holed plates (it's a lot more than two in reality) are spinning in a fluid. Normally when all wheels are turning both plates spin at the same rate.
    Personally I can feel the extra drag that the 4WD gives over a 2WD civic.

    When the front wheels spin the plates turn at differnt rates. The fluid in the diff forces the rear plate to start turning. Eventually the front wheels spinning stop. Either becasue they gain traction or the rear wheels catch up to the same speed.

    This manual has a tear down guide for the centre diff:
    http://www.hondacrx.co.uk/faq/manuals/c ... 2SH520.PDF

    Welding it is an option, but it shows how you could fairly easily make a replacement for it, perhaps from some old driveshaft bits ?
  • XSPower-DerekXSPower-Derek Wagonist
    this is a really bad idea... just so you know, honda didnt just put the viscous coupler into the driveline for no reason


    P.s. you have a solid rear end, how do you think that will work out with a solid driveshaft?
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    It's an open diff in the rear and independant suspension, not sure what you mean by solid rear end?

    I certainly wouldn't run on the road like this but people have run a welded coupler in autocross events without breakage.
  • XSPower-DerekXSPower-Derek Wagonist
    Haydz wrote:
    It's an open diff in the rear and independant suspension, not sure what you mean by solid rear end?


    I certainly wouldn't run on the road like this but people have run a welded coupler in autocross events without breakage.


    Three hours of sleep is owning me right now... but all I was getting at was that the rear axles are going to bind up Badly... and good luck finding replacement rear axles for less than $300 each, lol
  • turbo_tegturbo_teg Council Member
    schucks lifetime axles...... i bought two new axles for my old wagon and i bet the warranty is still good..... haha i bet i could get new ones still.....
  • FejFej Wagonist
    XSPower-Derek wrote:
    Three hours of sleep is owning me right now... but all I was getting at was that the rear axles are going to bind up Badly... and good luck finding replacement rear axles for less than $300 each, lol

    I know this is a dead thread but leaving the misinformation about the rear axle cost bothered me. A few weeks ago I got a new front axle at Kragen and had them look up the rears while I was there. They had them (on order) for $100 to $150. Lifetime warranty you break it they give you a new one.

    Edit: Found them on Kragen's website for $134.99 http://kragen.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=A1C&MfrPartNumber=604131&PartType=945&PTSet=A
  • JayTeeJayTee Wagonist
    Looking for more information on welding the coupler. Anyone here running this setup?

    Plan to do this on my RT soon.
  • kyle h.kyle h. Wagonist
    I've looked into this and researched this option on a couple different occasions. I don't think there is really any benefit from doing this. Aside from a cheap fix for a broken center diff/coupler. If you welded the center coupler and you ever had your front or rear wheels off the ground while moving I'd imagine this would be very stressful on the drive train when the lifted set of tires hit the ground again.

    Maybe not though? Since in a working center coupler it should notice a rpm difference if a set of wheels left the ground and lock up.

    By welding it you are removing the time delay that the diff locks up. Thus creating a handling difference. I'm not sure one could be considered better than the other for traction/handling purposes. In the end I think it's up to the individual driver to decide which design they are more comfortable with.

    If you have a working center diff, I think that it's better left alone.

    I'm speaking towards road course/autox handling situations. For drag racing you may see some lower 60ft times by removing the delay in which the rear diff locks.
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