would you happen to have the link thread you found.. ( im searching for it now...) ive installed stereos over 20+ years and this should be a silly simple fix.. the orange wire marked dimmer would go into the factory to aftermarket wire harness if your original radio had illumination if not most installers head straight for the ash tray/ heater area for parking light...
that black wire you found where was it connected to..?? was it a ground ...??
The black wire seemed to come from the radio harness, but the orange wire was coming from the dash harness [I see that it goes under the dash, by the right side of the steering wheel]...but maybe it's for the cd player... *shrugs* I'm gonna make Josh look it at some point, cause I don't want to screw anything up more than it is ..
ok i was looking for anything that might assist in your rewiring of the cd player on the couple of sites I use ....
and well i think i struck a few nice gems....
I'll elaborate a touch more on the alignment deal.
The car does in fact have negative 3's camber up front, and when it came in the rear camber was -4.8 and -4.5.
:shock:
I was able to add longer bolts and enough washers to get the rear camber more respectable at -3.2 and -3.0 or so. The problem is while I could have added more washers to achieve closer to the goal of -1 camber the TOE in the rear can only go so far before it cannot be close to "in spec." Ideally rear toe should be at -.08 degrees. With two "thick" washers stacked on each bolt to add +1.6 degrees of camber it has also drastically changed the amount of toe that can be dialed in. For every bit of positive camber you add it also adds TOE OUT at a much higher rate, so basically her rear toe links are pushed all the way in just to be at -.03 degrees - any more positive camber will result in out of spec toe, which is horrible.
To get the rears dialed in perfectly she needs these:
They replace the stock fixed toe arms as shown here:
With adjustable tie rod style links that allow much greater rear toe adjustments:
The other issue I ran into is with the front camber. See usually we just crank the camber kit all the way out on a car this low, but her tires are already scrubbing, so pushing the top of the wheel out more will only add to the scrubbing and it will literally cut into the outside edge of the tire and undoubtedly rip up the fender liner and possibly the fender itself.
Even *if* the tires were not scrubbing there's not enough positive adjustment left in the Skunk2 arms to dial out the -3 of camber because the kits came in close to the middle setting of a total of +3 degrees of adjust-ability. At her ride height with the S2 kit maxed out all the way she'd probably still have -2 degrees of front camber.
I was going to raise the wagon up by adjusting the Ground Control sleeves, but to my surprise even at it's low ride height the front springs were already raised up so much so that I could not turn the collars by hand. With wheels off the ground there was preload already on the springs, which tells me that the shocks are already stretched out as far as they will go. Turning the collars up any more (with the aide of the spanner wrench for leverage) will likely not so much raise the car any more (because the shock is at it's longest already) but more so add more preload and compress the spring with little/no change in ride height.
Bottom line?
She needs longer front shocks in order to raise the front coilovers up.
The rears?
There's a ton of room to come up there. With the car off the ground there is probably 3-4 inches of dead space between the rear spring and tophat/spring mount.
I found this to also be true with my own wagon. In order to sit level my rears are dumped, and my fronts are jacked all the way up on my threaded body Eibach/KW coil-overs.
Today lil'ghost brought the car up for the obd1 conversion. When we did the swap we were faced with the early obd0 b16a which had 2 o2 sensors and a header with one bung. I made a jumper to feed both ECU inputs from one sensor, but it just wasn't right. We decided to go obd1 back then, but needed time to source the goodies. We finally got the parts, the car, and the time and place together!
Swapped in some obd1 distributor plugs. The one I repinned, but the power plug worked better by soldering on the leads. The terminals and their weather seals didn't translate to my liking.
New (reman) '94 GSR distributor- thanks to Hoss!
I had poured out a box of distributors trying to mix-n-match a cap/rotor etc.
Once all that was solved, we moved on to the 4-wire o2 sensor wiring. Spiffy harness from Rywire and included instructions make it dummy-proof
A bicycle spoke is the perfect tool to fish the harness through the firewall grommet
just poked it alongside the other harness and pulled it on through
Dug through the crate o' harnesses and found a matching plug, soldered the wires per the instructions...voila!
Now, I thought that since I had already wired for VTEC, the o2 would be all I needed to do- WRONG. Tried it out and had codes for VTEC solenoid, VTEC pressure switch etc. No biggie, I saved my notes and hand-drawn diagrams from the original harness. Took a closer look at the Rywire jumper and it was obvious that I just needed to unpin those added wires and solder them to the conversion jumper.
Worked perfectly. Soldered on this tiny toggle for the timing/diagnostic plug. Now instead of jumpering the plug(which by the way is NOT present in an '88) you just flip the switch. same for setting the ignition timing.
It just occurred to me that I didnt' mount the switch, duh!
It's always hard to fit all those extra wires back under the plate and out of harm's way. I will say that the Rywire harness is way more compact- about half the size of the homemade jumper in the bamwagon
She had a lot of friends outside the recovery room, making sure the surgery was successful
She had a lot of friends outside the recovery room, making sure the surgery was successful
So DOCTOR BAM im guessing surgery went well & the Lil'Ghost is up and running better than ever.....!!!!!!
LOL and now she is flippin switches ... so did she get down and dirty before or after switch transformation
So DOCTOR BAM im guessing surgery went well & the Lil'Ghost is up and running better than ever.....!!!!!!
LOL and now she is flippin switches ... so did she get down and dirty before or after switch transformation
My/Rev's driveway is alllll dirt ... so after it rains ... game's over for the ladies. so yeah, down and dirty before - Bam even had the pressure washer out! :P
When I saw the switch I laughed my ass off, but it's pretty cool lookin' in the car. Just gotta mount it somewhere, lololol.
I can honestly tell the difference in how she drives with the obd1 conversion. Increased performance, I'd say, and she sounds healthier.
I thought this was too funny not to share. After surgery & the test drive Bam says: "Engine: check. Suspension: fuck no! I don't recommend 90 with it this damn low."
Thanks to Hoss for saving my ass with the distributor. and of course Bam - the man,
OMG! I just commented on Revs and was like man that really sucks. Then I saw this and my mouth hit the floor. That sucks so much, I would be so upset if it happened to my wagon and it is no where near as nice as your guy's. Hopefully things look up for you guys.
Comments
I thought about that when the dash lights went out .............
Here's the thread I found. viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1302&hilit=dimmer
The black wire seemed to come from the radio harness, but the orange wire was coming from the dash harness [I see that it goes under the dash, by the right side of the steering wheel]...but maybe it's for the cd player... *shrugs* I'm gonna make Josh look it at some point, cause I don't want to screw anything up more than it is ..
and well i think i struck a few nice gems....
Stereo
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/stereodetail/1044.html
Cruise control
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/cruisedetail/1044.html
Remote car start
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/1044.html
Im gonna need to reference these myself... Remote starter & in-dash dvd is a must...
The car does in fact have negative 3's camber up front, and when it came in the rear camber was -4.8 and -4.5.
:shock:
I was able to add longer bolts and enough washers to get the rear camber more respectable at -3.2 and -3.0 or so. The problem is while I could have added more washers to achieve closer to the goal of -1 camber the TOE in the rear can only go so far before it cannot be close to "in spec." Ideally rear toe should be at -.08 degrees. With two "thick" washers stacked on each bolt to add +1.6 degrees of camber it has also drastically changed the amount of toe that can be dialed in. For every bit of positive camber you add it also adds TOE OUT at a much higher rate, so basically her rear toe links are pushed all the way in just to be at -.03 degrees - any more positive camber will result in out of spec toe, which is horrible.
To get the rears dialed in perfectly she needs these:
They replace the stock fixed toe arms as shown here:
With adjustable tie rod style links that allow much greater rear toe adjustments:
The other issue I ran into is with the front camber. See usually we just crank the camber kit all the way out on a car this low, but her tires are already scrubbing, so pushing the top of the wheel out more will only add to the scrubbing and it will literally cut into the outside edge of the tire and undoubtedly rip up the fender liner and possibly the fender itself.
Even *if* the tires were not scrubbing there's not enough positive adjustment left in the Skunk2 arms to dial out the -3 of camber because the kits came in close to the middle setting of a total of +3 degrees of adjust-ability. At her ride height with the S2 kit maxed out all the way she'd probably still have -2 degrees of front camber.
I was going to raise the wagon up by adjusting the Ground Control sleeves, but to my surprise even at it's low ride height the front springs were already raised up so much so that I could not turn the collars by hand. With wheels off the ground there was preload already on the springs, which tells me that the shocks are already stretched out as far as they will go. Turning the collars up any more (with the aide of the spanner wrench for leverage) will likely not so much raise the car any more (because the shock is at it's longest already) but more so add more preload and compress the spring with little/no change in ride height.
Bottom line?
She needs longer front shocks in order to raise the front coilovers up.
The rears?
There's a ton of room to come up there. With the car off the ground there is probably 3-4 inches of dead space between the rear spring and tophat/spring mount.
I found this to also be true with my own wagon. In order to sit level my rears are dumped, and my fronts are jacked all the way up on my threaded body Eibach/KW coil-overs.
Does any of this make technical sense to you all?
My First Gen. Odyssey could of used your knowledge right around CHRISTmas.....
eating up some tires....
Thanks for actually making sense ... maybe I should delete my posts ...
Swapped in some obd1 distributor plugs. The one I repinned, but the power plug worked better by soldering on the leads. The terminals and their weather seals didn't translate to my liking.
New (reman) '94 GSR distributor- thanks to Hoss!
I had poured out a box of distributors trying to mix-n-match a cap/rotor etc.
Once all that was solved, we moved on to the 4-wire o2 sensor wiring. Spiffy harness from Rywire and included instructions make it dummy-proof
A bicycle spoke is the perfect tool to fish the harness through the firewall grommet
just poked it alongside the other harness and pulled it on through
Now, I thought that since I had already wired for VTEC, the o2 would be all I needed to do- WRONG. Tried it out and had codes for VTEC solenoid, VTEC pressure switch etc. No biggie, I saved my notes and hand-drawn diagrams from the original harness. Took a closer look at the Rywire jumper and it was obvious that I just needed to unpin those added wires and solder them to the conversion jumper.
Worked perfectly. Soldered on this tiny toggle for the timing/diagnostic plug. Now instead of jumpering the plug(which by the way is NOT present in an '88) you just flip the switch. same for setting the ignition timing.
It just occurred to me that I didnt' mount the switch, duh!
It's always hard to fit all those extra wires back under the plate and out of harm's way. I will say that the Rywire harness is way more compact- about half the size of the homemade jumper in the bamwagon
She had a lot of friends outside the recovery room, making sure the surgery was successful
I prefer 3-4 mil carbon rod/shaft...
mr. Yankee Doodle Skretzy...
So DOCTOR BAM im guessing surgery went well & the Lil'Ghost is up and running better than ever.....!!!!!!
LOL and now she is flippin switches ...
Thanks for posting all the technical info too!
Bam hard at work!
What's different?
I literally LOL'ed!
My/Rev's driveway is alllll dirt ... so after it rains ... game's over for the ladies.
When I saw the switch I laughed my ass off, but it's pretty cool lookin' in the car. Just gotta mount it somewhere, lololol.
I can honestly tell the difference in how she drives with the obd1 conversion. Increased performance, I'd say, and she sounds healthier.
I thought this was too funny not to share. After surgery & the test drive Bam says: "Engine: check. Suspension: fuck no! I don't recommend 90 with it this damn low."
Thanks to Hoss for saving my ass with the distributor. and of course Bam - the man,
BAMTECH FTW!
mmhmm
this wagon is gonna be bad ass!!!
mmmm sexy wagon,
and Rev's ...
must have hit my car - then hit his too. goddammit.
did a tree topple over?