Adding boost to the ZC
mrhalfwitt
Band Wagon
I started to gather the parts needed to boost the wagon. I was test fitting the the manifold and turbo today and it all looks good.
I only want to run 5lbs, Is this safe for the long run? I just want something to pull me through the low end, the ZC's top end power is good enough for me.
I picked a garrett TB03 from the 1.8T VW. it's a T3 flange and internal wastegate. My manifold has a flange for an external wastegate but i'm going to block it off.
I only want to run 5lbs, Is this safe for the long run? I just want something to pull me through the low end, the ZC's top end power is good enough for me.
I picked a garrett TB03 from the 1.8T VW. it's a T3 flange and internal wastegate. My manifold has a flange for an external wastegate but i'm going to block it off.
Comments
Its really about having enough fuel, and a cool enough charge to ward off detonation. So bigger injectors, a tuneable ECU, some time of intercooler or heat exchanger is a good idea. Not a must, but then again, were talking about reliability. So it is a "must".
If your tuner is good, they will sufficiently compensate for high compression and boost. It doesn't matter.
OBD1 + Crome + good tuner = win.
Since i'm new to the honda world i've been reading all of the intenral mods that can be done and i'm wondering how much boost can be ran on my engine before i need anything. The first thing that comes across my mind is piston ring gap. I dont want to heat up the engine to the point that i brake rings.
And like I said in my first post, i just want something to pull me through the low rpm.
My other question is the front mount intercooler. I have a good size BLITZ, when I say good size i dont mean huge, i mean proportional to my project. I have a friend that is telling me not to use it because of pressure drop, but on the other hand i'm with theidealone on the detionation factor.
Did the VW you got that turbo from have an intercooler?
This engine is one of the engines shipped in from japan with around 40k-60k on it.
I used that wrench to take out my wide band oxygen sensor.
The majority of engine wholesalers do not note the KMs at all. It's a BS number people throw around because of a the perpetuated myth that Japanese cars only do 60,000kms and then get thrown away.
True, but still i'd like this engine to last as long as possible.
I'd also go with the ARP headstuds as evol911 said.
As well as that, i'd go with an intercooler to reduce intake temps and help with tuning.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wXzAVSWBVY
This all sounds reasonable. What else do you recommend?
By the time you go this far you may as well just do a full rebuild of the engine..
please dont tell me you are running 13.3-13.5 at WOT. you gonna burn your engine before you even got tuned..
what fuel management are you using?
thats it!
You need to go after market on that. Cometic or HKS do one. It's oversize but will work on a stock bore.
You will start blowing the stock fibre gaskets once you get high boost levels.
I'm using a megasquirt. I'm not sure how to take your comment. I'm guessing you think that video was taken with the turbo kit installed. That is the only way it makes sense to me. The video was taken after I got the megasquirt installed without the turbo. I still have yet to install the turbo kit. I wanted to make sure i'm not going to have any problems with my home made ecu before i do anything else.
Other than that N/A under heavy acceleration 13.5 is a good AFR.
This is a great wagon forum, but...
Good luck with the build man.
I got some key answers. Basically anything over 10 lbs of boost requires fortification to the engine. The 5-7 lbs i'm looking to use is safe on the engine the way it is but I should replace a few inexpensive parts to help the engines longevity.
Keep in mind, I'm not trying to make big numbers, i just want a little kick in the @$$ when I want it.