I guess this time I should be the one reading the whole thread :oops:
Thanks for the update and post up whatever pics you have. I got a couple of spare shafts ready for some new parts. What would the cost be if you don't mind sharing?
I'm not sure on cost per joint, but I'll call Rockford on Monday and see what it will be.
Videos are uploading to YouTube currently, but its gonna take a while. About 15 separate videos, probably close to an hour's worth total. Did the best I could with what I had, its not perfect, but it should help.
I have a bunch of photos I took while doing the other joint that I'm going to try to post as a writeup here, depending on my ability. Should be enough to send you down the right road.
For now, here's a link to Rockford's site and their version of the directions for replacing the joints. Its considerably simpler than mine.
Great stuff and even if the parts are more I am sure there will be a lot of very happy people on this forum here very soon. I know the one on my wagon isn't bad but it will be replaced anyways now that this is an option.
Ok, I tried posting the pictures on here but apparently the file size is too big to fit your site's filter. We'll let the videos do the talking and if anything else needs to be explained further, probably the pictures will do it.
Anybody recommend any good free photo sharing sites?
That's the link to the playlist of all the videos on my YouTube page for the joint replacement. Hope its helpful.
And I spoke to Rockford this morning, turns out they don't do Retail sales out of their facility, but if you give them a call, they will direct you to a dealer in your area that you can deal with. Prices per joint are probably going to be in the neighborhood of $30 to $35 a piece.
And I spoke to Rockford this morning, turns out they don't do Retail sales out of their facility, but if you give them a call, they will direct you to a dealer in your area that you can deal with. Prices per joint are probably going to be in the neighborhood of $30 to $35 a piece.
I just got off the phone with Rockford Driveline, very nice people! They allowed me to purchase 4 u joints directly from their facility. I was quoted $33 USD per a joint and they even gave me some tips for the install on the phone. Can't wait to get it in the car!
I just got off the phone with Rockford Driveline, very nice people! They allowed me to purchase 4 u joints directly from their facility. I was quoted $33 USD per a joint and they even gave me some tips for the install on the phone. Can't wait to get it in the car!
That's the link to the playlist of all the videos on my YouTube page for the joint replacement. Hope its helpful.
And I spoke to Rockford this morning, turns out they don't do Retail sales out of their facility, but if you give them a call, they will direct you to a dealer in your area that you can deal with. Prices per joint are probably going to be in the neighborhood of $30 to $35 a piece.
I've just replaced all my propeller shaft U-joints [universal joint, universal coupling, U joint, Cardan joint, Hardy-Spicer joint, or Hooke's joint] and I thought many will appreciate the information. I'm including different spellings and/or synonyms in [brackets] for the sake of searchability. I will be describing the general procedures and if requested I'll post a more detailed description with drawings/pictures.
I have a 1991 RT4WD wagon which lived in the north with the typical rust problems caused by the salted roads. Since I've had this car I noticed vibrations caused by the 4WD system. A few of my U-joints were stiff and lately one was completely seized. I've decided to take some time and look deeper into it. I've carefully measured the needle bearing cap [caps, end, ends] diameter and yoke ["C" end, ends or bracket, brackets] internal spacing and Rockford 430-10C replacement u-joint matched perfectly (and is not listed online). Rockford 430-10A and B (which are listed online) where the right diameter but too long or short.
The proccess to replace worn-out U-joints is available online if you search around a bit but below is a summary of what I've found:
1. Mark everything so each piece is installed in the same original orientation. An ink marker will work BUT depending on how you clean your parts it will rub off (like I did). Use a punch to make little indentations ("dots") or a flat file edge to make lines.
2. Remove the staked-in U-joint:
2.a. Break through the stakes with hammer blows.
Search in www.youtube.com for "Staked-in U-Joint Replacement" and watch the multi-episode explanations. I feel this method to be a bit rough where if you hit the wrong corner or do not properly support your parts you could cause serious damage. You will need a very good heavy-duty bench vise for this. You'll be basically shearing off the stakings (and any rust built-up in the way) by forcing the bearing caps outwards one by one until the [cross, middle "X" piece] is free to fall off.
2.b. Cut spider ends with a grinder having a thin metal cutting wheel or metal cutting saw.
With some care you can cut each arm of the spider without touching the yokes. Then each cap can be gently pressed or hammered towards the center of the yoke with a socket. They should fall right off easily.
2.2. Clean the crud off the yokes with a brush and kerosene, mineral spirits, etc.
3. Prepare the yoke bearing cap receiving surfaces:
3.1.a. Use a round file to remove reminder staking as shown in the youtube series.
3.1.b. A Dremmel [rotary tool] with a cylindrical grinding stone (1/2" to 3/4" in diameter and about 1/2" tall) will nicely remove the staking and rust build-up. Then a final touch with a very fine grit cylindrical sanding attachment will leave a smooth polished surface so the new bearing caps will press through effortlessly.
Either way do not remove material [metal] from the internal yoke surface... only outside were the staking is and where the bearing caps will not sit on anyway.
3.2. Completely wipe clean both yokes with brake parts cleaner or similar. Lightly grease the bearing cap receiving surfaces.
4. Install new bearings:
4.1. Remove the first 2 opposite spider bearing caps from your new Rockford part. Take care not to move the small needle bearings as they're only held in place with grease.
4.2. Position the bearing caps into the yoke openings from the outside... while aligning the spider from the inside of the yoke.
4.3. With a bench vise and a socket start pushing one of the bearing caps... always keeping everything aligned so that the spider ends will meet the needle bearings at the right angle. I've had better luck pressing both bearing caps about 1/2 way through until both spider ends perfectly aligned and smoothly riding on the needle bearings.
4.4. Now that everything is aligned keep pressing until you reach the point where the clip ridge is ready to receive the clip [snap ring] on both ends. If you go too far, do one end and then push from the other side back.
4.5. Install the clips. I've had to push them in with a screw driver but should go in easily. Turn them around so the open end is facing toward the spider (and not the shaft).
5. Center and align the assembly:
5.1. After pressing the new bearings you might notice some stiffness in the U-joint movement. By properly supporting the assembly and tapping on the U-joint so that the bearing caps sit tightly on the clips and on the yoke I've found a slight radial (side to side) play from the spider which will cause noise (metallic "tapping") and vibration. I've then VERY gently tapped the bearing caps innwards so that the spider is tight while still free and smooth to move. I don't know if there should be shims between the clips and yoke ends or if the yoke ends are bending [flexing] slightly but if one clip is very hard to move while the other is completely free tells me that the spider is NOT centered on the yokes.
5.2. I've coated everyting with an anti-rust primer to prevent rust. The original yokes had a black covering. There's bare metal surfaces that will rust instantly with the northen USA salty slush. After taking everything apart, the yoke/shaft pieces could be wire brushed or sand blasted and re-coated with POR-15 or some other anti-rust coating. New paint might take the shaft out of balance and cause strong vibrations at certain speeds. Try to apply paint coats evenly or figure out how to balance a shaft.
I'm waiting for an extra clip that I've bent out of round and after I install everything (hopefully before any snow) I'll see how balanced the propeller shaft and centered the u-joints are and post any findings.
Again, changing this u-joints was not any harder than rebuilding brakes, CV joint driveshafts, etc. and should take about 2 hours each U-joint with minimal tools:
1. Metal saw or grinder with thin metal cutting wheel
2. Fine round file or Dremmel rotary tool with round fine grit grinding attachments
3. Any mid-size decent bench vise or very good "C" clamp (not like what you find at Lowe's or Home Depot")
4. Short 15 mm sockets or round stock to push bearing caps
5. Hammer
6. Probably a set of needle nose pliers, screw driver, wood blocks, grease cleaning stuff, etc., etc.
7. Of course!!! the new Rockford 430-10C u-joints which cost just over $30 each.
Thank god someone finally made these parts. I've been following the wagons for awhile and it always worried me about how expensive the driveshaft is to replace.
Schweeet! Are all three joints the same part number? I'm pretty sure but want to confirm
I just called them and talked to Stan...or steve....I think it was Stan, anyways. Told him what I had and what I needed. He said all three u joints were the same (hoping he is right).
Ordered three of whatever he said fits my car and hope he is right.
Comments
Thanks for the update and post up whatever pics you have. I got a couple of spare shafts ready for some new parts. What would the cost be if you don't mind sharing?
Videos are uploading to YouTube currently, but its gonna take a while. About 15 separate videos, probably close to an hour's worth total. Did the best I could with what I had, its not perfect, but it should help.
I have a bunch of photos I took while doing the other joint that I'm going to try to post as a writeup here, depending on my ability. Should be enough to send you down the right road.
For now, here's a link to Rockford's site and their version of the directions for replacing the joints. Its considerably simpler than mine.
http://www.rockforddriveline.com/Staked ... ctions.htm
Boots
Anybody recommend any good free photo sharing sites?
That's the link to the playlist of all the videos on my YouTube page for the joint replacement. Hope its helpful.
And I spoke to Rockford this morning, turns out they don't do Retail sales out of their facility, but if you give them a call, they will direct you to a dealer in your area that you can deal with. Prices per joint are probably going to be in the neighborhood of $30 to $35 a piece.
just finished watching all of them.....
now im gonna find a dealer or order them online ..
-Bump!- for crucial parts
Read the thread. You have to contact Rockford and order it.
Right above your post!
Little further above that one
Sorry, my bad. Thanks for hi-lighting relevant info!
If you look a bit farther up you can see I did the exact same thing as you :oops:
pandorasbox, awesome research and follow through on getting these made!
and bootsinthejeep, those video(s) are very much appreciated!! thanks!!
I have a 1991 RT4WD wagon which lived in the north with the typical rust problems caused by the salted roads. Since I've had this car I noticed vibrations caused by the 4WD system. A few of my U-joints were stiff and lately one was completely seized. I've decided to take some time and look deeper into it. I've carefully measured the needle bearing cap [caps, end, ends] diameter and yoke ["C" end, ends or bracket, brackets] internal spacing and Rockford 430-10C replacement u-joint matched perfectly (and is not listed online). Rockford 430-10A and B (which are listed online) where the right diameter but too long or short.
You could order that part by contacting:
http://www.rockforddriveline.com (directly)
http://www.theujointstore.com (which carries Rockford parts)
The proccess to replace worn-out U-joints is available online if you search around a bit but below is a summary of what I've found:
1. Mark everything so each piece is installed in the same original orientation. An ink marker will work BUT depending on how you clean your parts it will rub off (like I did). Use a punch to make little indentations ("dots") or a flat file edge to make lines.
2. Remove the staked-in U-joint:
2.a. Break through the stakes with hammer blows.
Search in www.youtube.com for "Staked-in U-Joint Replacement" and watch the multi-episode explanations. I feel this method to be a bit rough where if you hit the wrong corner or do not properly support your parts you could cause serious damage. You will need a very good heavy-duty bench vise for this. You'll be basically shearing off the stakings (and any rust built-up in the way) by forcing the bearing caps outwards one by one until the [cross, middle "X" piece] is free to fall off.
2.b. Cut spider ends with a grinder having a thin metal cutting wheel or metal cutting saw.
With some care you can cut each arm of the spider without touching the yokes. Then each cap can be gently pressed or hammered towards the center of the yoke with a socket. They should fall right off easily.
2.2. Clean the crud off the yokes with a brush and kerosene, mineral spirits, etc.
3. Prepare the yoke bearing cap receiving surfaces:
3.1.a. Use a round file to remove reminder staking as shown in the youtube series.
3.1.b. A Dremmel [rotary tool] with a cylindrical grinding stone (1/2" to 3/4" in diameter and about 1/2" tall) will nicely remove the staking and rust build-up. Then a final touch with a very fine grit cylindrical sanding attachment will leave a smooth polished surface so the new bearing caps will press through effortlessly.
Either way do not remove material [metal] from the internal yoke surface... only outside were the staking is and where the bearing caps will not sit on anyway.
3.2. Completely wipe clean both yokes with brake parts cleaner or similar. Lightly grease the bearing cap receiving surfaces.
4. Install new bearings:
4.1. Remove the first 2 opposite spider bearing caps from your new Rockford part. Take care not to move the small needle bearings as they're only held in place with grease.
4.2. Position the bearing caps into the yoke openings from the outside... while aligning the spider from the inside of the yoke.
4.3. With a bench vise and a socket start pushing one of the bearing caps... always keeping everything aligned so that the spider ends will meet the needle bearings at the right angle. I've had better luck pressing both bearing caps about 1/2 way through until both spider ends perfectly aligned and smoothly riding on the needle bearings.
4.4. Now that everything is aligned keep pressing until you reach the point where the clip ridge is ready to receive the clip [snap ring] on both ends. If you go too far, do one end and then push from the other side back.
4.5. Install the clips. I've had to push them in with a screw driver but should go in easily. Turn them around so the open end is facing toward the spider (and not the shaft).
5. Center and align the assembly:
5.1. After pressing the new bearings you might notice some stiffness in the U-joint movement. By properly supporting the assembly and tapping on the U-joint so that the bearing caps sit tightly on the clips and on the yoke I've found a slight radial (side to side) play from the spider which will cause noise (metallic "tapping") and vibration. I've then VERY gently tapped the bearing caps innwards so that the spider is tight while still free and smooth to move. I don't know if there should be shims between the clips and yoke ends or if the yoke ends are bending [flexing] slightly but if one clip is very hard to move while the other is completely free tells me that the spider is NOT centered on the yokes.
5.2. I've coated everyting with an anti-rust primer to prevent rust. The original yokes had a black covering. There's bare metal surfaces that will rust instantly with the northen USA salty slush. After taking everything apart, the yoke/shaft pieces could be wire brushed or sand blasted and re-coated with POR-15 or some other anti-rust coating. New paint might take the shaft out of balance and cause strong vibrations at certain speeds. Try to apply paint coats evenly or figure out how to balance a shaft.
I'm waiting for an extra clip that I've bent out of round and after I install everything (hopefully before any snow) I'll see how balanced the propeller shaft and centered the u-joints are and post any findings.
Again, changing this u-joints was not any harder than rebuilding brakes, CV joint driveshafts, etc. and should take about 2 hours each U-joint with minimal tools:
1. Metal saw or grinder with thin metal cutting wheel
2. Fine round file or Dremmel rotary tool with round fine grit grinding attachments
3. Any mid-size decent bench vise or very good "C" clamp (not like what you find at Lowe's or Home Depot")
4. Short 15 mm sockets or round stock to push bearing caps
5. Hammer
6. Probably a set of needle nose pliers, screw driver, wood blocks, grease cleaning stuff, etc., etc.
7. Of course!!! the new Rockford 430-10C u-joints which cost just over $30 each.
Shipping.
Fucking stoked!!! This thread should be stickies. 7/8/2011 ordered 3 new bushings!!!
I just called them and talked to Stan...or steve....I think it was Stan, anyways. Told him what I had and what I needed. He said all three u joints were the same (hoping he is right).
Ordered three of whatever he said fits my car and hope he is right.
(it has been for some time lol)
Do a seperate writeup on your install. I'll sticky that too...