Can't wait for the update. One question though, how hard was it to replace the rear quarters with the cutouts, and do you have a little more detailed explanation of what you did? I want to know where you found that stash of wagon parts lol.
I was going to ask. I plan on buying a similar alternator relocator bracket as well for my F22 build, where did you get yours from? How far does it sit down (inches/cm wise)? Oh yea are you going to convert to Hydro or use a Lever Assembly for the tranny?
Reddragon, the quarter panel replacement was fairly easy but as I said before I work in a bodyshop so it's just normal work for me. I think I posted the only pics I have of the replacement but I still have to do the other side so I'll take some better pics when I do it.
Clutch, the alt bracket came from here: http://www.explicitspeedperformance.net/H22Aalt.html and is the upper D series mount. I'm not going to use the hydro to cable conversion from Hasport or Innovative because I think they are bulky and ugly. Also sticking with hydro I will be able to hide the hose. I'm buying this today: http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.ph ... ight=sonem and I already have most of the other pieces I need to do the job.
Yea, thats where I plan on ordering mines from in a couple weeks, just seeing where you got yours. What would you say the advantages are when sticking with a D-series one rather than a H? Is it just size in general? What from cross member do you plan on using? I know its a lot of questions, I just want to get an idea of what I'm going to be going against when I put an F22 in mines.
Yes the main reason to use the d series is for space. I had to notch the driver's headlight bucket to get full adjustment and even what I've cut so far is tight and I still need to do some moving.
I was planning on getting a crossmember from Full Race but on their list of applications it doesn't include an H so I need to call and confirm that it will fit. If it doesn't then I may just get one from Explicit.
Be careful with that Sonem Hydro conversion. TurboTeg (Matt) tried one of those in the car he bought from Shenrie, and it didn't fit. Look for his posts. He talked about it on here.
Ok thanks for that. Good thing you posted because I was about 10 minutes from ordering it. Well I guess I'll have to look into it more and see what other solutions I can come up with.
Yeah the plan is to have it done for IA. I've been for the last couple of years but always in my other car, and always scrambling to get other people's cars done so this year it's my turn to be rushed lol.
Haha. Yea Im debating if I should start my swap or not, but that all has to be accounted into if I have enough funds for the rest of the parts, which shouldn't be much.
Sorry just saw this. I guess I need to check my own stuff more often lol. Yeah I have updates just been too lazy to post. I'll try to get them up tomorrow.
Alright so here's some updates. First off the engine is back out of the car and I started the bodywork on the bay
but I got distracted by the 96 ITR brake conversion I bought so I went ahead and did the rear brake conversion. It wasn't as bad as people made it out to be. Including the teardown of both sets of trailing arms and all the labor to modify it I have a combined 9 hours in it so I don't think that's too bad.
You can see the spindle holes line up to the wagon spindle holes
I did have to drill a hole to access the caliper bracket bolt
Then I had to cut and fold the trailing arm where it pinches together to clear the caliper
Next I had to dent the trailing arm for the caliper piston and e brake cable bracket to fit
And here's a pic of the trailing arm apart
The center stud on the spindle just barely cleared the hole in the trailing arm so I had to dent it down around the stud
And then put it back together
Honestly with a torch and a hammer it was very easy to do. I was a little nervous getting started because so many people had said it was so difficult. It's not the prettiest thing ever but it all works so I'm pretty happy. Obviously I still have a ton of clean up to do as well as an all around brake job.
I also got the front put in it as well.
I also got all the parts needed for the hydro conversion as well as the parts for my brake line tuck.
It's the SONEM hydro bracket, EF pedals, the hydro line, new slave cylinder, clutch master, and reservoir. All the fittings are from Earl's and then there is a new prop valve and brake master.
I should have my wheels in a couple of days and hope to order some tires and lugnuts later today.
Yeah the wheels I wanted were 4x114 so I just decided to do this instead of the regular Integra stuff I already had to do it with. These parts are pretty clean and I don't need to replace calibers, rotors, etc. Plus the parts were in Chicago and it gave me an excuse to go up there and spend the day lol.
Lever assembly will be ordered in the next couple days. Everything else is pretty much set, my cousin said the hardest thing would be wiring, since we're doing it ourselves. I'm pretty sure putting the motor in would be easy.
Yeah I'm still up in the air on the wiring. I'm cutting it close with money to get this done by IA so I want to do it myself but I'm also on a tight schedule to get done so idk at this point. I'm not real skilled on wiring either. I've done headlight harness tucks and lightly modified engine harnesses before though. Are you buying the Innovative or Hasport bracket? Any reason you are doing it that way rather than the way I'm going?
Im actually going to try the one from explicit, so we'll see how that works out. I just don't want to deal with the whole, hydro swap. I like the feel of cable too. But everything is all up in the air too until, we actually start breaking the car down. After I register it in TN and switch everything over, we'll start. I'm just waiting till it gets closer to my CA insurance to run out. Haha.
Finished the brakes. Only thing left is to put on the rear lines.
Got the bodywork finished on one door and put into primer
And now to the important things: Yokohama S-drive 195/50/15
SSR Reverse Mesh 15x7 offset +15
Quick fit on the car, still have some adjusting to do with the suspension. The first pic looks like it sits up in the front for some reason but it's level.
Ok thanks for that. Good thing you posted because I was about 10 minutes from ordering it. Well I guess I'll have to look into it more and see what other solutions I can come up with.
The Sonem kit doesn't fit the wagon's pedal assembly but you can switch out the pedal assembly for that of an EX/SI and then the Sonem kit will work on your wagon. Be advised, you will have to remove the A/C vent tubes that go to the drivers door panel and far left dashboard vent.
Ok thanks for that. Good thing you posted because I was about 10 minutes from ordering it. Well I guess I'll have to look into it more and see what other solutions I can come up with.
The Sonem kit doesn't fit the wagon's pedal assembly but you can switch out the pedal assembly for that of an EX/SI and then the Sonem kit will work on your wagon. Be advised, you will have to remove the A/C vent tubes that go to the drivers door panel and far left dashboard vent.
Already got pedals from an EF and the car will not have heat so no worries about the vent tubes.
Quick fit on the car, still have some adjusting to do with the suspension. The first pic looks like it sits up in the front for some reason but it's level.
Comments
Clutch, the alt bracket came from here: http://www.explicitspeedperformance.net/H22Aalt.html and is the upper D series mount. I'm not going to use the hydro to cable conversion from Hasport or Innovative because I think they are bulky and ugly. Also sticking with hydro I will be able to hide the hose. I'm buying this today: http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.ph ... ight=sonem and I already have most of the other pieces I need to do the job.
I was planning on getting a crossmember from Full Race but on their list of applications it doesn't include an H so I need to call and confirm that it will fit. If it doesn't then I may just get one from Explicit.
but I got distracted by the 96 ITR brake conversion I bought so I went ahead and did the rear brake conversion. It wasn't as bad as people made it out to be. Including the teardown of both sets of trailing arms and all the labor to modify it I have a combined 9 hours in it so I don't think that's too bad.
You can see the spindle holes line up to the wagon spindle holes
I did have to drill a hole to access the caliper bracket bolt
Then I had to cut and fold the trailing arm where it pinches together to clear the caliper
Next I had to dent the trailing arm for the caliper piston and e brake cable bracket to fit
And here's a pic of the trailing arm apart
The center stud on the spindle just barely cleared the hole in the trailing arm so I had to dent it down around the stud
And then put it back together
Honestly with a torch and a hammer it was very easy to do. I was a little nervous getting started because so many people had said it was so difficult. It's not the prettiest thing ever but it all works so I'm pretty happy. Obviously I still have a ton of clean up to do as well as an all around brake job.
I also got the front put in it as well.
I also got all the parts needed for the hydro conversion as well as the parts for my brake line tuck.
It's the SONEM hydro bracket, EF pedals, the hydro line, new slave cylinder, clutch master, and reservoir. All the fittings are from Earl's and then there is a new prop valve and brake master.
I should have my wheels in a couple of days and hope to order some tires and lugnuts later today.
Finished the brakes. Only thing left is to put on the rear lines.
Got the bodywork finished on one door and put into primer
And now to the important things: Yokohama S-drive 195/50/15
SSR Reverse Mesh 15x7 offset +15
Quick fit on the car, still have some adjusting to do with the suspension. The first pic looks like it sits up in the front for some reason but it's level.
The Sonem kit doesn't fit the wagon's pedal assembly but you can switch out the pedal assembly for that of an EX/SI and then the Sonem kit will work on your wagon. Be advised, you will have to remove the A/C vent tubes that go to the drivers door panel and far left dashboard vent.
Already got pedals from an EF and the car will not have heat so no worries about the vent tubes.
look like my car