(URGENT) Oxbeards running list of engine problems (NO FUEL)
oxbeard
Wagonist
i had just gotten off the highway yesterday, after i pulled away from the red light the car just died and now it cranks but doesnt start.
what are some things this could be and how can i diagnose it?
what are some things this could be and how can i diagnose it?
Comments
rotor button/distributor
main relay
fuel pump
Check all fuses first
Take off the distributor cap. Have someone turn the engine over. Rotor turning? If no, timing belt.
Rotor tight on shaft? Put the cap back on, pull a plug, ground it and turn the engine over while looking for spark. got spark? Ignition OK. No spark? Try a known good distributor if you can access one.
Turn the key from off to on position, listen for click of main relay behind the dash above the hood release, then faint hum of fuel pump priming. Hear it? fuel pump/relay probably Ok. No click? Main relay. Click, but no hum? Fuel pump.
i checked for spark, all were sparking... seemed a little weak but ive never checked it before so i have nothing to compare it to.
i sprayed starting fluid down the top of the intake. and still it turns over but wont fire. i also opened the oil cap and looked through it to the springs, cranked it, they are moving... im stumped
would i hear a clattering noise if the timing belt slipped?
im thinking timing belt
anyone in the dfw area wanna help a fellow wagonist out on getting me running again?
When you turn it over, does it sound hinky? Like faster than normal, or jerky?
what are the chances that if i slap a new belt on everything will be fine?
Check timing first.
Valve cover off. Upper timing cover off.
Cyl #1 @ TDC, compression stroke (both valves closed/rockers loose)
Crank pulley should be at TDC mark
Cam pulley should have marks level with the head/VC surface, with "UP" on top
pull all the plugs and do a compression test.
tray a known good dizz.
try a known good main relay.
you dont need me...
uh?
last problem was the rotor button melted... then after that was replaced i can hear the distributor making a scraping noise. bearings. so i ordered a whole new distributor.
hopefully that should be the fix.
while im waiting on that to arrive, how would i find out what the check engine light is for?
Lift carpet in passenger footwell and count flashes from LED light in middle of gold coloured cover.
i couldnt even turn the old one after i got it off.
anyway. i took the dist. cap off my brand new dizzy and found the coil was melted at the contact point.
and the contact was melted into the cap. i replaced cap and coil and its fine now... BUT! wtf? why would this happen?
anyone know what would cause this on a brand new distributor?
crappy resistor somewhere...
dunno
correct sparkplugs...
timings...
mixture..
distributorcap..
the list goes on mang...
You saying its legal for them to sell something without a warranty on it?
ok ill start at the top. i havent changed the wires or plugs yet. so i might as well.
i read the previous post wrong... i got the dizzy on ebay lol. so no help there. but i got the coil from autozone and asked about a warranty and they said noooope no warranty.
What's causing the coil to torch things?Before u buy new wires.Get a VOM meter to check the resistance .It should not exceed 25,000 ohms according to Honda.
I think you might be overclocking the coil.Check the following:
1)spark plug gap(too big a gap is bad)
2)plug wires firmly on the plugs & cap.
:arrow: What might be happening is there is a big gap somewhere between the coil & plugs that the coil is trying to ramp up & jump causing the coil to overheat melting the contact point & rotor.
i tried with a long screw driver to get it out. then a coat hanger with a hook bent at the end of it...
i managed to pull a chunk of it out but i cant seem to get the rest out.
HOW THE SHIT DO I GET IT OUT!! ??? lol
ill be trying again tomorrow, it was getting dark
or high compression air...
wear safety...
im about to duct tape a straw to the end of my vacuum and try that lol