Thanks JL56TC. Did you say the transmission was brand new or just in really good condition?
XSPower-Derek,
I actually have 2 other transmissions here for spares (as well as 3 extra transfer cases and 3 extra rear diffs - thanks TurboTeg!), but I'm always on the lookout for more sources as these parts are getting harder and harder to find. I won't know how badly I need spares until I actually get to start driving the car. The axle is supposed to be on it's way back to me tomorrow, so this time next week I should be driving the car, finally!
Thanks JL56TC. Did you say the transmission was brand new or just in really good condition?
XSPower-Derek,
I actually have 2 other transmissions here for spares (as well as 3 extra transfer cases and 3 extra rear diffs - thanks TurboTeg!), but I'm always on the lookout for more sources as these parts are getting harder and harder to find. I won't know how badly I need spares until I actually get to start driving the car. The axle is supposed to be on it's way back to me tomorrow, so this time next week I should be driving the car, finally!
sweet... im prolly one people most interested in your build since it ties in so closely with mine, ill be watching closely
Thanks JL56TC. Did you say the transmission was brand new or just in really good condition?
XSPower-Derek,
I actually have 2 other transmissions here for spares (as well as 3 extra transfer cases and 3 extra rear diffs - thanks TurboTeg!), but I'm always on the lookout for more sources as these parts are getting harder and harder to find. I won't know how badly I need spares until I actually get to start driving the car. The axle is supposed to be on it's way back to me tomorrow, so this time next week I should be driving the car, finally!
there was 3100 killometers on it so not brand new but vertually... the thhing still had honda break in oil in it.
as promised here are some pics.. put it in storage after some problems in the fall and decided to start fresh this spring
now that darn rust ..... it spreading and I cant get it to stop
cant stand that MN salt... it did fine in nd but all this winter it must have spread... uggg im so mad
as a side note BTW anyone have a extra fender laying around... my passanger side is shot
and i cant look in the FS postings yet....sorry i know im bending the rules by asking...
ill try and post more pics everytime i work on it thanks guys
You have to request to join the marketplace. I have a driver fender in your color (good condition) that I was planning to have painted. I'd give you it if you would get me a good condition one in any color.
What was the website you got your tranny from? I ordered mine from eBay but it's a us one. I was going to get a jdm one but it was sold.
You have to request to join the marketplace. I have a driver fender in your color (good condition) that I was planning to have painted. I'd give you it if you would get me a good condition one in any color.
What was the website you got your tranny from? I ordered mine from eBay but it's a us one. I was going to get a jdm one but it was sold.
like I said before it wasnt brand new but it still had honda break in fluid in it and it was under 3500kilometers on the transmission. in my book thats brand new 465 shipped to my door and it came with everything on it
- 250 is the max bhp the rear can see?
- Don't use a solid driveshaft?
- Rebuild everything to go past 250?
I've read a lot about theory, or how they guy with the RT4WD civic si is pushing 400hp, but I've never really come across a plan of action for either making things stronger, or setting a limit. Thoughts?
- 250 is the max bhp the rear can see?
- Don't use a solid driveshaft?
- Rebuild everything to go past 250?
I've read a lot about theory, or how they guy with the RT4WD civic si is pushing 400hp, but I've never really come across a plan of action for either making things stronger, or setting a limit. Thoughts?
correct
correct
correct
....... however you can use a CRV shaft which is rated at 380hp i do belive but it has to be cut and re welded... i think there was a kid from WI with a wagon that did a full CRV conversion and he had just over 364hp and he broke some stuff in the rear end... but im sure if you take the time to do a quick conversion ... aka a crv rear end the results would be the same... i hear a lsd also helps... but thats just what ive heard
- 250 is the max bhp the rear can see?
- Don't use a solid driveshaft?
- Rebuild everything to go past 250?
I've read a lot about theory, or how they guy with the RT4WD civic si is pushing 400hp, but I've never really come across a plan of action for either making things stronger, or setting a limit. Thoughts?
correct
correct
correct
....... however you can use a CRV shaft which is rated at 380hp i do belive but it has to be cut and re welded... i think there was a kid from WI with a wagon that did a full CRV conversion and he had just over 364hp and he broke some stuff in the rear end... but im sure if you take the time to do a quick conversion ... aka a crv rear end the results would be the same... i hear a lsd also helps... but thats just what ive heard
gearing isnt the same between the crv rear diff and the wagon rear diff... this has been gone over before
gearing isnt the same between the crv rear diff and the wagon rear diff... this has been gone over before[/quote]
what are you talking about.??? :? of course they are not... thats why you have to use the whole rear end out of the CRV.... maybe im confused... are you talking about the RT diff and the CRV rear end... couse im 95% sure ive seen a cut CRV shaft on an RT wagon. and if my memory searves me right he had to chop part of the CRV rear end to make it fit
gearing isnt the same between the crv rear diff and the wagon rear diff... this has been gone over before
what are you talking about.??? :? of course they are not... thats why you have to use the whole rear end out of the CRV.... maybe im confused... are you talking about the RT diff and the CRV rear end... couse im 95% sure ive seen a cut CRV shaft on an RT wagon. and if my memory searves me right he had to chop part of the CRV rear end to make it fit[/quote]
the gearing in the rear diff's is not the same, so your back wheels would be spinning at a different speed than your front wheels if you were to use your wagon trans with a crv rear diff
lol were talking about 2 diffrent things... the kid with the RT has a FULL swap... thats evrything out of the CRV motor and diff to..... your talking about just changing from the original RT diff back... in my one post i should have been more spacific... I ment just the shaft chopped as a quick conversion... I stand corrected..
I think they could plan on selling 10 pieces or so max.
I'm afraid that for those of us wanting to put down more than 250 were gonna need custom parts made for the rear end. Is the gear set and front half of the trans also limited to 250?
Please! Please! I am still worried about the transfer gears/case in my build. All my power (hopefully somewhere around 325whp and 250ft/lbs) is going out the transfer case to the back wheels. I'm about to start driving the car, so we'll know soon enough.
I believe a big part of the problem will be the transfer case/housing of the gears being able to keep the clearances correct, and not flex enough to allow the gears to spread apart. If someone could machine a billet housing with some extra material in key areas, that would go a long way to making this work better.
I'm not that concerned about the rear end. It's a cast steel housing and the diff is the same dimensions as the FWD diff that put out 600+ hp in the FWD turbo drag cars. And their diff housing is aluminum (transmission case). It's also similar in size to a Miata diff, and they can put a fair amount of power to the back wheels.
Like I mentioned above, I don't think it'll be a problem with the gears. I think we should focus on a stronger, stiffer housing. Are we talking about MFactory? They make some nice stuff. If you look at the Braile Auto drift Integra, they ran the OEM CRV transmission in their B20 Supercharged Drift car. All they broke was rear axles. I think that's because the CRV case is thicker/stronger/more stiff. I know for a fact that the gears are dimensionally identical (other than the ratio). I have personally compared them.
Look a bit further into that Epic Motorsports AWD Civic hatch. He's seeing 320 at the wheels on 17lbs of boost, and he has "babied" it to 1.7 60ft times on street tires, and 12.5 1/4 mile runs. So far the drivetrain is holding up just fine. It has also seen 30lbs on race gas and 420 whp.
I would certainly buy a set of transfer case gears from Mfactory just for the peace of mind, but I will focus my energies on getting a better housing as well, that's if I see any issues with the OEM stuff. Either way if Mfactory does the gears I'll buy a set.
So let me get this straight.. you guys are all having problems with the rear end after about 250.... now i know i ran just under 280 and i never really had a problem with the rear... yet....lol... but you 2 wanna get stronger rear end parts bc as we have established the front can handle a lot more... isnt the problem more the bevel gears then the rear end??? i know the rear end is spinning but it seems like the bevel gears are taking the most abuse. seems like a CRV conversion is way mmore economical then having special transparts made... i have seen crv turbos that have but out very decent power for the price... i guess there is a lot to convert that way... still cast steel cases are very strong and shouldt break.. after all they use aluminum in tons of rear ends now and they never break
like I said I think the rear end can take a lot more... would think the bevel gears are the true abuse point. If you get them forged or abrand new set that is not 20 years old I would think it would be just fine... the other thing that I feel would help truely is a lighter drive shaft... that would take the stress off of the diff. I know that i have run accross a carbon shaft a very long time ago. I couldnt find it after that ive been looking ever since
im pretty sure the problem is in the viscious coupler. the tranny and rear end hold up rather well but it seems that transfering power to the rear is where the weak link is.
the other thing that I feel would help truely is a lighter drive shaft... that would take the stress off of the diff. I know that i have run accross a carbon shaft a very long time ago. I couldnt find it after that ive been looking ever since
Also, I remember reading earlier in the post that the fact the OP had a solid shaft is what could have ended up frying his gears. I talked with a couple Subaru guys at work and they all though the VC should be removed for a solid shaft. Thoughts?
Also, I remember reading earlier in the post that the fact the OP had a solid shaft is what could have ended up frying his gears. I talked with a couple Subaru guys at work and they all though the VC should be removed for a solid shaft. Thoughts?
lawl at you not remembering that jaker is the guy who is building a RWD wago...
and the subie guys are wrong, it will end up trashing the trans/transfer gears and be hard as shit to drive
yeah a solid shaft is what wrecked my bevel gears oiginally.. although it does make me wonder why not very many manufactures do not run a coupler... i know it was a great idea at the time to have RTawd but it seems like kinda a waste... i wish i could have awd all the time. i remember before when i had my solid shaft that thing was really easy to drift on and off the highway...lol... thats a really nice shaft though jaker.
Ok...I don't know much about driveshafts so I'll have to look stuff up. My mechanical instinct says that there is a huge transfer loss when using a VC, and that at higher power that would be a serious weak point, or more so, the VC absorbing 100hp/100tq is no big deal, but when you more than double both of those the VC absorbing and then the rear gears slamming into motion would strip them much quicker than if they were turning all the time.
When I look at the EVO or Sti driveshafts they just seem to be solid pieces with u joints from the trans to the diff. Is it because they have an electronic diff? Does their AWD engage and disengage on the newer models from the diff, i.e. the shaft spins the whole time?
Also, I wonder what they did with older, less intelligent AWD systems?
Comments
XSPower-Derek,
I actually have 2 other transmissions here for spares (as well as 3 extra transfer cases and 3 extra rear diffs - thanks TurboTeg!), but I'm always on the lookout for more sources as these parts are getting harder and harder to find. I won't know how badly I need spares until I actually get to start driving the car. The axle is supposed to be on it's way back to me tomorrow, so this time next week I should be driving the car, finally!
sweet... im prolly one people most interested in your build since it ties in so closely with mine, ill be watching closely
there was 3100 killometers on it so not brand new but vertually... the thhing still had honda break in oil in it.
as promised here are some pics.. put it in storage after some problems in the fall and decided to start fresh this spring
now that darn rust ..... it spreading and I cant get it to stop
cant stand that MN salt... it did fine in nd but all this winter it must have spread... uggg im so mad
as a side note BTW anyone have a extra fender laying around... my passanger side is shot
and i cant look in the FS postings yet....sorry i know im bending the rules by asking...
ill try and post more pics everytime i work on it thanks guys
What was the website you got your tranny from? I ordered mine from eBay but it's a us one. I was going to get a jdm one but it was sold.
LIFE SAVER
The place I bought my tranny from is called
www.sunrisejdmmotors.com
like I said before it wasnt brand new but it still had honda break in fluid in it and it was under 3500kilometers on the transmission. in my book thats brand new 465 shipped to my door and it came with everything on it
- 250 is the max bhp the rear can see?
- Don't use a solid driveshaft?
- Rebuild everything to go past 250?
I've read a lot about theory, or how they guy with the RT4WD civic si is pushing 400hp, but I've never really come across a plan of action for either making things stronger, or setting a limit. Thoughts?
correct
correct
correct
....... however you can use a CRV shaft which is rated at 380hp i do belive but it has to be cut and re welded... i think there was a kid from WI with a wagon that did a full CRV conversion and he had just over 364hp and he broke some stuff in the rear end... but im sure if you take the time to do a quick conversion ... aka a crv rear end the results would be the same... i hear a lsd also helps... but thats just what ive heard
gearing isnt the same between the crv rear diff and the wagon rear diff... this has been gone over before
what are you talking about.??? :? of course they are not... thats why you have to use the whole rear end out of the CRV.... maybe im confused... are you talking about the RT diff and the CRV rear end... couse im 95% sure ive seen a cut CRV shaft on an RT wagon. and if my memory searves me right he had to chop part of the CRV rear end to make it fit
what are you talking about.??? :? of course they are not... thats why you have to use the whole rear end out of the CRV.... maybe im confused... are you talking about the RT diff and the CRV rear end... couse im 95% sure ive seen a cut CRV shaft on an RT wagon. and if my memory searves me right he had to chop part of the CRV rear end to make it fit[/quote]
the gearing in the rear diff's is not the same, so your back wheels would be spinning at a different speed than your front wheels if you were to use your wagon trans with a crv rear diff
im building my rt4wd for the next rally season and am planning on laying down 350whp and will probably get some custom tranny parts built.
I'm afraid that for those of us wanting to put down more than 250 were gonna need custom parts made for the rear end. Is the gear set and front half of the trans also limited to 250?
I believe a big part of the problem will be the transfer case/housing of the gears being able to keep the clearances correct, and not flex enough to allow the gears to spread apart. If someone could machine a billet housing with some extra material in key areas, that would go a long way to making this work better.
I'm not that concerned about the rear end. It's a cast steel housing and the diff is the same dimensions as the FWD diff that put out 600+ hp in the FWD turbo drag cars. And their diff housing is aluminum (transmission case). It's also similar in size to a Miata diff, and they can put a fair amount of power to the back wheels.
i will talk with a local tranny builder i know about how much it will cost to get a custom set of transfer case gears made to handle the power.
Look a bit further into that Epic Motorsports AWD Civic hatch. He's seeing 320 at the wheels on 17lbs of boost, and he has "babied" it to 1.7 60ft times on street tires, and 12.5 1/4 mile runs. So far the drivetrain is holding up just fine. It has also seen 30lbs on race gas and 420 whp.
http://www.roadraceautox.com/showthread.php?t=27490
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=8450
Is that yours?
Also, I remember reading earlier in the post that the fact the OP had a solid shaft is what could have ended up frying his gears. I talked with a couple Subaru guys at work and they all though the VC should be removed for a solid shaft. Thoughts?
lawl at you not remembering that jaker is the guy who is building a RWD wago...
and the subie guys are wrong, it will end up trashing the trans/transfer gears and be hard as shit to drive
When I look at the EVO or Sti driveshafts they just seem to be solid pieces with u joints from the trans to the diff. Is it because they have an electronic diff? Does their AWD engage and disengage on the newer models from the diff, i.e. the shaft spins the whole time?
Also, I wonder what they did with older, less intelligent AWD systems?